Looking for the Lost City of Trellech
After 15 years and nearly 80k miles, there are few places in South East Wales I haven't cycled. However, there are many different ways of getting to those places. This ride was my first attempt to find a shorter and more direct route to Trellech.
OVERVIEW
Llandegfedd & Llansoy [explore]
Date: September 27, 2024
Distance: 66.7 mi. / 107.34 km
Elevation: +3,962 ft / -3,927 ft
Duration: 12 hrs, 13 mins.
Distance: 66.7 mi. / 107.34 km
Elevation: +3,962 ft / -3,927 ft
Duration: 12 hrs, 13 mins.
To quote Robert Burns; "The best laid schemes o' Mice an' Men,
Gang aft agley, An' lea'e us nought but grief an' pain, For promis'd joy!", would be a suitable description for this naive mis-adventure I made in the Autumn of last year.
I've cycled to Trellech previously. However, it was nearly 10 years ago with the Kingfishers and at that time, I had no understanding of Trellech's history, its points of interest, or quite bluntly, any appreciation of where I was at all.
Because of this humbling oversight, I've been keen to re-visit for the past few years so that I can properly explore and appreciate this fascinating medieval town.
Ride with GPS can be an excellent resource for plotting cycle routes, especially when inspecting the elevations which makeup the hilly countryside of South Wales. I worked out a somewhat passable route via Llandegfedd Reservoir, across to Cobbler's Plain, and then north to Trellech. There was to be quite a bit of climbing, but I thought I'd give it a go.
I've cycled to Trellech previously. However, it was nearly 10 years ago with the Kingfishers and at that time, I had no understanding of Trellech's history, its points of interest, or quite bluntly, any appreciation of where I was at all.
Because of this humbling oversight, I've been keen to re-visit for the past few years so that I can properly explore and appreciate this fascinating medieval town.
Ride with GPS can be an excellent resource for plotting cycle routes, especially when inspecting the elevations which makeup the hilly countryside of South Wales. I worked out a somewhat passable route via Llandegfedd Reservoir, across to Cobbler's Plain, and then north to Trellech. There was to be quite a bit of climbing, but I thought I'd give it a go.
Pontypridd to New Inn
I cycled across the valley from Oakdale to Crumlin where I then joined NCN Route 465 to Pontypool. It's a great little ride of roughly 13 miles from my back gate to the town centre. I make it so often that I no longer take any photographs.
However, once in Pontypool several routes cross each other and between the roads and traffic and poor signage, it can be difficult to make your way.
However, once in Pontypool several routes cross each other and between the roads and traffic and poor signage, it can be difficult to make your way.
Just as you're coming into town there's a large roundabout which is very worthwhile to avoid. The option (shown above) is not sign-posted and difficult to spot amoungst the brush. Additionally, having stairs to climb doesn't lend itself to the notion of a cycle route.
The path becomes more more accessable once you reach the top of the stairs. In fact, it's quite an unusual route as you'll find yourself crossing a number of bridges just like this one as you pass through town.
I had originally left the image above out of my report, but it's worth noting that glass and litter can be an issue as you cycle through this area. There's a Tesco nearby and sometimes during the summer months large groups of kids can be found lurking about the paths. (They're mostly harmless, just loud and obnoxious.)
The signpost (shown previously) was useless, but I turned right at the junction onto NCN Route 492 (heading south and away from Tesco). I then began cycling across a series of alternalting bridges and shared use paths as I made my way across the southeast edge of town.
The large signs/maps occassionally found along the route look nice, but I find them of little use. Distances are unclear, there is no sense of scale, and the layout is presented as if I'm riding a bus. They were not designed by anyone who rides a bicycle, but I digress.
Looking ahead, you can see how the path moves alongside the road, then climbs up to an overpass by the roundabout. It's all executed quite well and easy to cycle. I give Pontypool a good deal of credit for this.
After about a mile of weaving over the assortment of bridges and shared-use paths, the route moves into the woods and becomes the more commonly styled cycle path. It's slightly downhill and lovely to cycle.
Not long after entering the woods, NCN Route 492 crosses NCN Route 49 (shown below). These twoo paths run parallel with each other for roughly 2-3 miles to where they then merge in Cwmbran.
It's worth noting too, that these paths are often confused. NCN Route 49 is a much longer path which starts in Newport and runs north to Llanfoist, following alongside the Monmouthshire & Brecon Canal. NCN Route 49 runs north from Cwmbran and up Afon Lwyd Valley to Brynmawr.
It's worth noting too, that these paths are often confused. NCN Route 49 is a much longer path which starts in Newport and runs north to Llanfoist, following alongside the Monmouthshire & Brecon Canal. NCN Route 49 runs north from Cwmbran and up Afon Lwyd Valley to Brynmawr.
Even the county burroughs get routes confused. If you look closely in the image below, the county has large sign advertising this route as Torfaen Cycle Route NCN 46? Whilst just behind the billboard is a sign on a pole saying NCN Route 492. This is an all too common problem in Wales where two different agencies work on the same cycle path, but fail to communicate with each other.
Anyway, it matters not today. I turned left at the junction onto New Road and began making my way to the village of New Inn.
Unfortunately, the cycle path was short-lived and just after crossing the (kinda cool) bridge, I had to enter the roadway. I suppose if push-came-to-shove, I could have cycled along the pavement, but traffic on the roadway looked relatively mild at the time.
In fact, traffic was very light at this time of day (10-ish), but I would imagine that during rush hour it could be quite different.
I made to to New Inn on New Road without incident having traveled just over 11 miles in total.
New Inn to Llandegfedd Reservoir
There's nothing terribly exciting about New Inn. There is a train station and a few small shops along the high street (named oddly enough; "The Highway") and cycling along the "The Highway" was easier than the name might suggest.
But my time on "The Highway" was brief as I soon turned left onto the more optimistically named; "Jerusalem Road".
Another small detail quite common in Wales, is that the names of places on roadsigns (and maps) are often spelled differently. Sometimes there are in English, sometimes they are in Welsh. Can you spot the difference between to two signs? (above and below)
Regardless of how ya wanna spell it... I'm heading to that reservoir!
Up to this point, the overall route had been pretty flat, a few small hills, but nothing to write about. However, as I turned onto Jerusalem Road some long low hills began and so did the steady climbing.
The road narrowed to a small lane as I turned onto Sluvad Road and the hills continued.
And to be honest, I don't mind this too much. This is very common for Wales once you move into the countryside. It wasn't terribly difficult and I find these rolling lanes up and down the valleys rather lovely.
I was in no rush either. As you can probably surmise, I stopped quite often to take photographs.
Then as I turned a corner heading down a hill, there she was; Llandegfedd(sp?) Reservoir.
I was surprised at first to see the large recreational boating docks and buildings... then I realised how friggin' low the water was! That was shocking.
(That's the spelling I'm sticking with.)
Using one of the sailboats' mast as a guage, I'd guess the water level is somewhere between 10-15 feet below normal? When they said on the news that we hadn't had much rain and that the water levels were low, it was hard to visualize. See this reservoir put it into clear perspective.
No one out on the water today. I wonder how deep (or shallow) the reservoir is at this point in time? It was such a sad and desolate image.
Otherwise, it's a beautiful reservoir. I should come back to see it when the water levels are back up — and on a sunny day!
Llandegfedd Reservoir to Llanbadoc
I poked around the visitor centre for a few minutes. There is a small cafe and some folks were milling about. They asked about my ride, along with the ubiquitous; "Where you from?"
And when I tell them; "I'm from the US..." I often follow that with; "I started early this morning." Sometimes they get it, but sometimes folks just look at me with a blank stare and then I wonder if they think I'm simple.
And when I tell them; "I'm from the US..." I often follow that with; "I started early this morning." Sometimes they get it, but sometimes folks just look at me with a blank stare and then I wonder if they think I'm simple.
Having confused both myself and the strangers, I got back on my bike and began making my way toward Coed-y-Paen. It was along Wellfield Close that the climbing began again and getting up out of the valley where the reservoir sat was an arduous climb, indeed.
Coed-y-Paen is precisely one of those sleepy villages so common in Wales. Surprised by the sign, I almost turned onto NCN Route 423, but thankfully I had my paper map to guide me!
Christchurch is not terribly old (comparably), but it is fine example of a Victorian parish church, well-manicured and stately. And I love seeing these old phone boxes. Typical with many, it has been converted into a free library/book exchange.
Then the road turned and dropped and I continued through the countryside rolling along toward my next destination of Llanbadoc.
How could you not love cycling in Wales? This country lane is exactly what makes toodling about Monmouthshire such a wonderful experience.
I once had someone ask me; "Don't those narrow lanes worry you?... you can't see cars coming." But here's the thing; it is incredibly quiet. I could hear a car coming long before I could see it. It is wonderful and amazing.
Just look at the scenery.
I didn't know it at the time, but as I was writing this report I discovered that this is the entrance to the HM Prison Priscoed, a Category D men's open prison.
And so the countryside just rolls along, as do I.
Turning a bend, the road dropped dramatically, the hillsides widened, and I was suddenly descending into the Vale of Usk.
The road bottoms out at the junction with the A472 in Llanbadoc. High above the road to my left and difficult to see, stands Twyn Bell, a lovely Victorian house bult within the remains of Twyn Bell Camp; a partial ring-work of medieval or pre-historic origin.
Across the road stands the lovely St. Madoc's Church. This 14th century medieval church is a grade II listed building which includes many Victorian modifications and restorations.
Most notably, the naturalist, explorer, and anthropologist Alfred Russell Wallace was born in Llanbadoc and baptised here in St. Madoc's Church in 1823.
Most notably, the naturalist, explorer, and anthropologist Alfred Russell Wallace was born in Llanbadoc and baptised here in St. Madoc's Church in 1823.
Note: Fred Hando writes about this church in "Out and About in Monmouthshire"; 1958
Llanbadoc to Llansoy
Just beyond Llanbadoc is the wonderful medieval town of Usk. Rich in history and character, it deserves much more attention than I'm giving it here. I passed through without stopping because I often cycle to Usk and it's on my list of places to document. On this day, I needed to keep moving. Trellech was still quite a ways off.
Heading east on the B4235 out of Usk, Chepstow Road veers right after a couple of miles and then begins a rather hefty set of climbs up to the village of Llangwm.
Heading east on the B4235 out of Usk, Chepstow Road veers right after a couple of miles and then begins a rather hefty set of climbs up to the village of Llangwm.
After nearly 2 miles of stair-stepping up the hillside to Llangwm, I turned left again toward the wonderfully named Wolvesnewton.
And here is where the climbing began in earnest.
Following a couple of "false-flats", I realised I was beginning to struggle. Looking back (image above), it didn't appear too bad. The surrounding hillsides were lovely.
I had to admit that I was doubting my ability to reach Wolvesnewton... much less Cobbler's Plain and Trellech. I had only cycled about 23 miles, but I was having difficulty.
The hills were relentless. They didn't appear too steep from a distance, but once I got on them, I was seriously struggling.
Also of note, remember this sign (image below)... I turned right at the junction.
Also of note, remember this sign (image below)... I turned right at the junction.
I stopped several times before reaching the top of this hill and it knocked me out.
From where I turned off Chepstow Road at Llangwm, I had only cycled about two miles, but the average gradient had been nearly 11%.
I looked around and took a few snaps. The hillsides were gorgeous and I was up pretty high too.
It was clear that I wasn't going to make it to Trellech before late in the afternoon. As beautiful as the day was, I was dog-tired. There was simply no way I could reach Trellech with any amount of energy left to further explore and photograph all that I wanted.
I simply had not anticipated the amount of climbing this route would involve and I had started too late in the morning. Sadly, I decided to turn back.
I took a few shots as "crime-scene evidence", humbled by the defeat, but secretly pleased to be gliding downhill, as well.
I raced past the sign I told you to remember and flew into Llansoy within minutes.
Following one short climb up to the junction of a wonderfully flat and un-named road, I turned left toward Raglan and pedaled on — with the wind at my back!
Just outside of Llansoy, I turned left again onto another little un-named lane and raced my way further downhill toward Monmouth Road, heading back to Usk.
Honestly, I was feeling rather relieved at not having to cycle to Trellech. The day was stunning and I was happy that I could just relax and cycle home.
I hadn't cycled this narrow lane before. It was a little rough in places, but completely desolate. And I was enjoying the slow pace, taking my time.
I came upon some farmland as the lane leveled out. I could hear cows lowing over the hedge... a tractor in the distance.
I was all smiles as I came up to Monmouth Road. It was picture-perfect.
Turning back toward Usk, I felt great. I hadn't made it to Trellech, but I still had a wonderful adventure... and that's what cycling is all about.
SUMMARY
Llandegfedd & Llansoy [explore]
I knew it was an abitious goal to cycle all the way from home to Trellech and then photograph all that I wanted to see. Plus, I didn't know this route I had mapped out, so it was all a bit of a gamble from the start. Was it worth it? Absolutely. Not finding what I was looking for showed me something else entirely new.
Yes, it was hard at times, but what else have I got to do with my life? It was a wonderful adventure which has taught me and prepared me for another attempt. Next time; I shall stay in the Usk Castle campground and make it a multi-day affair. And that sounds even better.
Yes, it was hard at times, but what else have I got to do with my life? It was a wonderful adventure which has taught me and prepared me for another attempt. Next time; I shall stay in the Usk Castle campground and make it a multi-day affair. And that sounds even better.
It was another gorgeous day in Wales (Septembers can be fabulous). I shot over 300 photographs, 98 of which made it into this report! The skies were mostly sunny all day and the temperature hovered around 15°c (60°f).
I had an good day exploring Monmouthshire and clocked in some decent miles. Now too, I've got an even bigger adventure to plan.
I hope you enjoyed my report and thanks for spending time with me!
Seeya down the road... Cheers! - cm
I had an good day exploring Monmouthshire and clocked in some decent miles. Now too, I've got an even bigger adventure to plan.
I hope you enjoyed my report and thanks for spending time with me!
Seeya down the road... Cheers! - cm



































































































