Pontypridd to Maerdy

Documenting new & Improved Sections along NCN Route 881
It had been a few years since my last visit to Maerdy, so this adventure was to check out the progress of the regeneration projects along NCN Route 881 running though Ynyshir, Wattstown, Tylorstown, Ferndale, and Maerdy.

OVERVIEW
Pontypridd to Maerdy
Date: May 27, 2024
Route Distance: 12.4 mi. / 19.95 km
Rhondda Fach communities were recently awarded £20 million to focus on regeneration projects across neighbourhoods in Tylorstown, Maerdy, Ferndale, Ynyshir and Wattstown. (See: Rhondda Cynon Taf Newsroom)

I read in the news that this grant included extensive work to repair and improve several sections of NCN Route 881. My goal for this adventure was to cycle up to Maerdy to see the progress of this work and how the walking and cycling paths have been improved.

Unlike the Rhondda Fawr valley which has benefitted from massive improvements to its train service, the Rhondda Fach valley nolonger has train service and thus lacks many of the benefits of development and growth. These trainless valleys of South East Wales hold a special attraction to me which I've started to regard as "ghost valleys".
Note: The map shown above shows only my ride from Pontypridd to Maerdy. A map of my complete ride for the day can be found at the end of this report.

Be forewarned, this is a massive report. I spent an great deal of time photographing this relatively short, yet diverse route (12.4 mi. / 19.95 km). Along with investigating the improved sections, I also set out to get some fresh images images of NCN Route 881 for my "Routes to Ride" section. I shot over 300 photographs, of which 178 were used here.

On a final note before I get started; I documented most all of this route back in 2021. You can see that report here: Maerdy & Aberdare [explore]

Table of Contents
PART ONE | Pontypridd to Barry Sidings | 1.5 miles
Starting on NCN Route 4 along the High Street of Pontypridd, then snaking though town to join NCN Route 881 for a short ride through the woods to Barry Sidings Country Park

PART TWO | Barry Sidings to Porth | 2.6 miles
Continuing on NCN Route 881 through Barry Sidings Country Park, then through Trehafod to the train station in Porth.

PART THREE | Porth to Stanleytown | 2.8 miles
Leaving Porth on Rhondda Taf Trail (NCN Route 881). A mix of traffic-free and quiet lanes snaking behind Ynyshir, Wattstown, and Pontygwaith to Stanleytown.

PART FOUR | Stanleytown to Ferndale | 1.8 miles
Enter woods and trail becomes unpaved and sometimes rough, crossing Rhondda Fach river multiple times passing through Ferndale Country Park.

PART FIVE | Ferndale to Maerdy | 1.9 miles
Route starts along unsigned service road, very rough and uneven, then joins newly surfaced tarmac for last 1 mi. to Maerdy.

PART SIX | Maerdy to NCN Route 47 | 2.0 miles
Leaving Maerdy NCN Route 881 continues along surfaced tarmac through site of Maerdy Colliery, past Castle Nos Reservoir, ending at the junction With NCN Route 47.

SUMMARY | A Look Back...
Some thoughts and ideas. A sort of round-up, a report card, and my thanks.


PART ONE
Pontypridd to Barry Sidings
Distance: 1.5 mi. / 2.25 km
Elevation: +125 ft / -43 ft
For the past couple of years, Pontypridd has been undergoing extensive renovation to its town centre which has proven especially good for cyclists as many of the adjacent streets have been narrowed and/or pedestrianised.

There is a large and busy train station which provides links to most all the other valley lines and is located in the heart of the town. But most notably, two major routes of the National Cycle Network cross here; the Taff Trail (NCN Route 8) and Lon Los Cymru (NCN Route 4).

Additionally, both of these major routes provide connectors to several nearby adjacent valleys with their associated cycling routes heading north and specifcally for this report; NCN Route 881.
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Thus begins today's report from the centre of Pontypridd along the High Street following NCN Route 4 northwest out of town.
And unfortunately, like in most towns, signage for the routes can be hard to find or non-existant in places. Having a paper or digital map is crucial. The roads in Pontypridd are like a squirrels nest of hairpin turns and single-direction roads.
Whilst the local council has done a tremdous job widening pavements for walkers and cyclists alike — for the first .5 mi. there are a surprising number of street-crossings to be made before reaching the junction of NCN Route 881.
However, you are soon away from the busy traffic and rewarded with a lovely route snaking through a quiet housing estate.
NCN Route 881 becomes traffic free at the entrance to Barry Sidings Country Park. From here, there's roughly 1 mi. of uninterrupted cycling through the woods.
The path can be somewhat busy at times. Dog-walkers and familys with small children wobbling about on balance bikes are often found along the path. Oddly, on this day there were few people about?
It's a short little path, but it's full of charm.
After roughly a mile, I reached the main entrance and car park to Barry Sidings Country Park.

PART TWO
Barry Sidings to Porth
Distance: 2.6 mi. / 4.18 km
Elevation: +125 ft / -43 ft
As with all car parks, one needs to be especially cautious as many drivers don't expect to see cyclists. The cycle path first crosses the car park, then loops along the far edge, before turning up to the main gate.
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Barry Sidings Countryside Park was was once a large holding area where coal trucks were stored between Barry Docks and Lewis Merthyr Colliery. For nearly 100 years, Barry Railway served numerous collieries up and down the Rhondda Valleys.
During the 1980's, the site was transformed into a recreational area featuring ponds for fishing, hiking/walking trails, a vistor centre, and cafe. NCN Route 881 closely follows the original Barry railline from Pontypridd to Porth.
The facilties at Barry Sidings are clean, the food offered (sandwiches & cakes) and the drinks (sodas, teas, & coffee) are pretty much the standard fair you'd find at any small cafe. There is plenty of seating, indoors and out; however, the cafe and toilets have limited hours.
Surpsiingly too, there is a bike shop! I wouldn't call The Bike Doctor at Barry Sidings a full-fledged bike shop, but it's good for a very small shop. They do offer a few new bikes for sale (kids, adults, & e-bikes), as well as some mountain bikes and related parts. They've a very friendly staff as well, and I'm sure they will do everything they can to help you.
Meanwhile, NCN Route 881 weaves its way through the charming little park.
There are a couple of forks in the path which could benefit from signage, but if you do make a wrong turn, your mistake soon becomes evident and it's just a short return back to the main route (image above).
It's a lovely ride through the woods, full of character with views overlooking the Rhondda Fach River to your lower right.
Then after roughly .75 mi. from the cafe & bike shop, the path exits the park and plops you onto a quiet lane in Trehafod.
Looking closely, I can see the signs for NCN Route 881 continuing straight-ahead at the end of the lane.
Once across the road, I immediatley enter the woods again. There's a sign for Rhondda Heritage Park; another interesting place to visit, but on this day, I followed the path under the bridge and on toward the village of Porth.
Once on the other side, the path opens up to a great view of the winding towers once used by Lewis Merthyr Colliery and now home of Rhondda Heritage Park.
The path crosses the river as I leave Trehafod and follows closely alongside the new Transport for Wales (TfW) electrified passenger rail service (image above). After another .5 mi., the path makes an abrupt turn to a short but steep climb up to a housing estate just outside Porth (image below).
Once at the top of the hill, NCN Route 881 enters the roadway and begins to snake its way through a quiet housing estate.
The route starts off well-signposted, but this soon changes, so some sort of map is very useful. However, a key landmark to remember is the Porth Train Station.

It's crucial to note as well, that the route may now be sign-posted as the "Rhondda Fach Trail". In the image above, someone has slapped an 881 sticker on the sign. (Thanks!)
The roadway narrows to a single lane as I progress and surprisingly remains two-way. Personally, I love this section, it feels as if it hasn't changed in 100 years, but I do wonder why it is called "The Parade"? (image below).
Mist had settled in by this point and I wondered if it woud be like this for the remainder of the day? Meanwhile, the views looking north up the valley were rather charming (image below). The subdued colours from the rain gave the town and surrounding hillside a lovely pastel hue.
But then I dropped down to a terribly confusing junction. There were no signs for the route and the narrow lane became a two-lane road for about 50 feet. The difficulty arrose when cars exited from the main road onto the road where I was standing.

As you can see too, I was completely in the way of a car as it was tyring to exit. Straight ahead was marked as "No Entry", so my only choice was to turn left. But oddly enough, I couldn't get out of the car in front of me way until the cars behind him were out of my way. It was totally weird and baffling.
So I made the left turn and began traveling down a one-way road heading... who knows where? But if you remember, I said earlier that if you get confused, just look out for the Porth Train Station? Well, voila! (image below)
It was a deeply puzzling bit of navigation, but I was able to successfully reach the train station. Thankfully, it was less than .5 mi. from the weird junction and thankfully too, I quickly re-discovered the bike path; however, that was just by dumb luck.
The Rhondda Fach Trail sign(s) reappeared (without 881 designation... above and below).
So I left Porth along a narrow back lane, hoping I was going the right way. After the wacky loop I had made to find the train station, I was not completely confident.

PART THREE
Porth to Stanleytown
Distance: 2.8 mi. / 4.50 km
Elevation: +302 ft / -66 ft
Fortunately, I quickly discovered the first section of the Rhondda Fach Trail is well marked. It was reassuring to see the little red sticker again and listing the towns ahead was a nice bonus. However, I was unsure if the distances were in miles or kilometers?
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The route resumed the typical traffic-free path we all know and love, sometimes interspersed with short sections of quiet lanes. It was easy cycling and I just love seeing the old stone facades of the terrace houses.
But you'll need to keep a sharp eye out. There are signs leading the way, but it's not always obvious. The red sticker was so faded that I missed it when I first cycled through here (image below). I went straight-on and then turned right at the next road junction. It was dumb luck that I discovered the route again after about 500 feet.
The Rhondda Fach valley is quite narrow through here and there aren't many roads... which means, you can't really get too lost. If you don't see any signs, just look for the river, chances are that you've either on the route or just near it. Keep going you'll soon see a route marker.

Meanwhile, enjoy the scenery. Its rather quaint and unspoiled.
I stopped on a bridge crossing the Rhondda Fach to take the photos above and below as examples. In the first image above, you can see that the road turns and follows the river north. However, had I missed the sign and continued along the lane, as visable in the second image below, I would have also followed the river north.
Schools and parks are other key features to look for when cycling. The Active Travel Act of 2016 set out to ensure safe walking and cycling paths for children to and from schools. NCN Routes very often utilise these paths as well.

It all works out in the end as you can see in the image below. The small road and the back lane re-connect before entering the Wattstown park and play area.
As you can see too, our friend has come through here and added the little red sticker for the National Cycle Network (881). Thanks!
It was pretty obvious to me at this point that the Rhondda Fach Trail (NCN Route 881) was running behind most of the small villages and avoiding the main roads.
However, I was never far from the main roads and sometimes there wasn't any alternative. Outside Stanleytown the route merges onto Aberllechau Road (image below).
Aberllechau Road soon becomes Lewis Terrace for a short distance (image above), which then veers and becomes Margaret Street (image below). That's right... if you're looking at a map; the road has three names over the course of .5 mi.
There wasn't any sign for the Rhondda Fach Trail or NCN Route 881 when I reached the junction shown above. (Urgh.) But because the road turning left looked to be heading into town (and much busier), whilst the lane veering right looked much quieter, I followed my earlier presumption, made a leap of faith, and turned right onto the Frunace Lane.
It's an important junction that needs a sign (Hello Sustrans!), but Furnace Lane worked out to be the correct choice and I soon spotted the sign for Rhondda Fach Trail where I re-entered the traffic-free path.
Now despite my fortunate choice, had I continued on the main road into town (Llewellyn Street in Stanleytown) I would have soon come to a roundabout. That roundabout sits directly across from the traffic-free path I was currently cycling on (images above and below).
So my point is, it's pretty hard to get lost up here. Yes, the signage could use some "freshening-up", and yes, there are gaps along the way. But to be fair, if you are unsure which way to go, it's pretty straight-forward to guess.
Leaving Stanleytown the path narrowed significantly and became rather questionable as well.
I passed through a small park which appeared to have not been used this century. Rickety steel benches sat cock-eyed in unmowed sawgrass — facing nothing in particular. Deep-rutted motorcycle tracks zig-zagged over a small field of weeds. The park was surrounded on two sides by a rusty barbed-wire fence. A gate opened to nowhere. A large dead tree stood at the far end like a tombstone.
And then the path turned into the woods... A steel barrier faced the entrance. Some signage would have definitely been reassuring.

PART FOUR
Stanleytown to Ferndale
Distance: 1.8 mi. / 2.89 km
Elevation: +190 ft / -29 ft
To be honest, short of asking someone, the only way to know precisely where I was, was to look at a map. There weren't any signs to speak of... I was going on pure gut instinct. I had passed a sign earlier that indicated Ferndale was this way. What else was I to do, turn back? Nope, not this guy. I was going to explore and see what laid ahead for myself.
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After lifting my bike over the awkward and difficult gate (shown above), the path began a steep climb up to ridge high above the river where I suddenly found myself deep within the woods (image below).
The path was wider, but wilder. The trees and bushes were dripping... Everything was wet and soggy. Ahead of me was a wooden bridge with an unsettling amount of washout at its sides (image above).
Then I came across a small stone plinth with an old coal wagon mounted on its top. Partially burried and slowly being taken by the forest, the memorial was a silent reminder of a massive coal complex that once stood here.
Photo credit: Martin Ridley, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons, c.1910

References:
Looking at the photo in the sidebar above, (c.1910), there is not a single tree to be seen anywhere along the hillside. It was completely descimated by the colliery. 116 years later, you would never know that this thick wooded valley had ever looked as it did then and that this was once the site of bustling industrial complex.

I stood quietly in remembrance of the men and boys who gave their lives for the sake of coal. You are not forgotten.

Here is the complete roster of their names. It should be noted too, the number of boys younger than 16 who died in the explosions. It is shocking and sobering.
Quite suddenly, the path then dropped down nearer to the river and again became narrow and quite muddy. The trees were tall and the undergrowth thick. The whole scene resembled a jungle and I immediately thought of Joseph Conrad and Heart of Darkness.
I exagerate, of course. But I did find it rather exhillerating. It was such a dramatic change from my earlier cycling along the back lanes of Porth and Wattstown.
And honestly, it was quite beautiful. I could hear the river flowing and birds chirping about the trees. The air was fresh and clear and I could almost taste the "green-ness" of the woods.
I came upon another set of difficult iron gates to navigate (image above). Lifting my bike over the rails was the easiest solution. But look at all the metal construction going on with this gate?... out here in the middle of the woods. Why?

Also, I had hoped that the blue panel on the gate might be a NCN Route sign, but no... it was just some weird panel with a cable lock on it.
On the other side, the path looked as if it had once been a road... then random bits of industrial objects began to appear along the path.
Then the path widened again as it flattened out beside the river. I found myself cycling beneath a lush canopy of trees, as if under an arbour.
The skies began to brighten and mottled sunlight filtered through the trees highlighting the rocks and river and enhancing the woody atmosphere with shimmering light.
I pedaled along, climbing slowly, lingering on the details of the surrounding scenery...
Completely alone, drifting through a microcosim of nature as if in a dream.
I had to stop to take it all in. This was perhaps the prettiest section of the ride so far.
And then, just as I pedaled around another bend, the entire landscape changed.
It was still beautiful, but it clearly had the mark of man. The path was wide and paved with fine gravel. Large cut-bolders lined the riverbanks.

A well-made path lead down from a road high above my left. A few benches were scattered about. I presumed that I was in Ferndale and the work I was witnessing was part of the regeneration project I mentioned at the beginning of my report.
It looked great to be fair, but I kinda like the rougher stuff better. Also, it was short-lived, because in less than .5 mi. I was back in the woods following a narrow, muddy path and looking at fastastic trees!
Ferndale was just a brief commercial interlude. The main show was in the woods.
Then I came upon a lovely little wooden bridge crossing the river. The route continues on this side of the bridge, albeit much rougher as it drops down into the woods (shown above), but I wanted to see if any new developments had been made on the other side.
Once across the river, the path continued without much fanfare and it appeared much as it had during my last visit back in 2021. But it's still nice and would be great for kids.

Note: As I was writing this report, I discovered that this section of the route along Ferndale is listed as "Ferndale Woodland Park".
I cycled with little concern for just under a mile before reaching Station Road, which leads up to the High Street of Ferndale. If ya look closely in the image above, you'll see too that there was finally another sign for NCN Route 881. Yay!

PART FIVE
Ferndale to Maerdy
Distance: 1.9 mi. / 3.05 km
Elevation: +209 ft / -8 ft
After passing under station Road the path becomes a sort of rough service road for a few small residences and/or businesses along the valley floor. There's quite a bit of trash, the path is very uneven, and the entire area feels neglected.
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The path becomes very rough and looked so disused that I began to wonder if I was going the right way? Again, there were no signs to help.
Of all the varying sections along this route, this part was the roughest and needs the most amount of attention.
Quite a few trees had been felled, but without any sense of reason?
It did appear that there might have been park along here at one time. Benches stood randomly and without purpose.
The path veered left toward a bridge that looked closed and I was afraid that Imight have to turn back. However, I found that I could lift my bike over another set of those blasted iron gates to make my way across.
Only to find another set of gates. (They must have a serious problem with motorcycles up here.) However, there was a very old and faded NCN Route 881 sign and that dear readers, was very nice to see!
Then I was back into the woods. The path became narrow again, and rutted in places, and muddy, and rocky. And to be honest, it was rather nice after the wasteland back in Ferndale.
A couple of mountain bikers came flying past me without a word.
There were a few small hills, but generally the route just rolled along, slowly climbing the western side of the valley.
Then I came upon another a strange clearing. The brush had been cut back, a few trees had been felled and there was some sort of fencing off to my right.
Upon closer inspection, I was in shock at what I discovered.
There, in the middle of the woods, was the new cycle path. Finally, after all that I had been through since Tylertown, I found the regeneration project I had read about in the news.
It's fabulous and simply amazing to cycle upon (especially after coming off the rough mountain track)... but why here? Why build it near the very end of the route?
Perhaps they are working their way down the valley? Maybe the next section will connect from here to Ferndale?
Regardless, the council has done a wonderful job. It looks fantastic.
As I approached the end near Maerdy, I was still in shock.
The new path was less than a mile in length, but it's incredibly nice. It was such a pleasure (and a relief!) to cycle after the rough mountain track leaving out of Ferndale.

PART SIX
Maerdy to NCN Route 47
Distance: 2.0 mi. / 3.21 km
Elevation: +259 ft / -9 ft
However, the fun didn't stop there. Once I reached the colliery commemorative marker at Maerdy Road, I could see that the new surfaced trail continued up the valley. I found it extremely exciting news!

Note : It's worth checking out this article from the BBC Online: "Striking mural in 'last pit of the Rhondda' village". This town has a fascinating history.
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I was completely shocked again to see such an improvement to the route. Take a look at the photo I took of the path back in 2021 below...
The newly surfaced route is simply stunning.
As the path turns onto the old colliery road as reaches where Maerdy Colliery once stood. There are a couple of benches and it appears that they might be planning on some improved landscaping. Most all of the work seemed quite new.
Since I was standing where the colliery once stood, it seems rather appropriate to re-post the sidebar I wrote back in 2021 as well.

References:
Much of the old industrial works can still be seen lying about in the weeds along the path.
The river is clear and the valley is thick and lush with large trees and brush. Red Kite can often be seen flying overhead.
The rocky knob jutting up over the hillside is where Castle Nos once stood. I took a photo of the blue plaque in 2021 (image below). Here's a link to an article from 2013 when the castle recieved historical recognition.
I've also got a better shot of this old building from 2021 (image below). Although it is often thought to be a relic from the colliery, Castell Nos Filter House was actually part of the Rhondda Fach Water Scheme and built c.1884-1900.
The path snakes along, winding its way...
Off to my right I spotted some interesting industrial details worthy of exploring.
Then I suddenly found myself at the base of the damn for Castle Nos Reservoir.
It's not a terribly large reservoir, but it is pretty. The path climbs up along it's side and continues along the eastern bank.
I hadn't seen a sign for NCN Route 881 (or Rhondda Taf Trail) since Ferndale, but by this point, there's really nowhere else to go... there's just one path.
I'm sure you're going to be surprised to read that I've only traveled 11 mi. since leaving Pontypridd. (I warned you that I took a lot of photos!) But, as I near the top of the valley, I also know the junction with NCN Route 47 is close.
I stopped near the junction for lunch. It is a wonderful location and whoever designed this is a genius (images above and below). Thank you!
Just past the picnic spot is the junction with NCN Route 47. I've included yet another photo from my 2021 ride that shows the junction clearer (image below).
That's the end of NCN Route 881. I turned up NCN Route 47 to begin my ride home. I've included a few photos of this "dog-leg" to my ride simply because I kinda like the images.

BONUS SECTION
NCN Route 47 & Maerdy Mountain
The path changes significantly at the junction with NCN Route 47. Not only does it begin with a steep incline, there are very large and loose rocks across the width of the path and as far as I could see up the hill. Needless to say, I began walking.
I was kinda tired and it was a nice change of pace to just walk along. Plus, it was becoming a beautiful afternoon. There was a light breeze and it felt great.
Looking back, the reservoir looked so small (image above) and the incline of the hill didn't seem too steep (image below). The views were lovely.
I tried to cycle some... there were short distances where the gravel wasn't too bad, but then I'd hit a spot where the rocks were either too big or too loose, so I just gave into walking.
There wasn't any rush and I enjoyed going slower and watching the clouds.
Castle Nos stood off to my right (image above). It looked much smaller from this perspective, but it must have been a formidable sight in its day. I saw too that the council has added a fence around its base. That's a smart move because if ya fell off that thing, there's nothing much to stop ya from rolling all the way down to the reservoir.
After hiking about a mile up the hill, the path leveled off and I could cycle once again.
Just above the ridge I found another NCN sign. The numbers were washed away, but it was reassuring to see anyway. Ahead and below, was Maerdy Road which leads over the mountain to the town of Aberdare in the adjacent valley. That's my way home.
I stopped taking pictures here. It felt like enough and I had a 30 mile ride ahead of me.


SUMMARY
Pontypridd to Maerdy
Date: May 27, 2024
Total Distance: 63.4 mi. / 102.03 km
Total Elevation: +3,442 ft / -3,446 ft
Duration: 6 hrs, 55 mins.
The route from Pontypridd to Maerdy was just part of my overall ride for the day (see the map below). I was out for nearly seven hours. I cycled 63 miles and climbed 3,442 feet. It was a big day of cycling.

As I said earlier, I shot over 300 photographs — 180 or so made it into this report. After writng this report, I'm sure that I've got enough images to create a "Route to Ride" for NCN Route 881... more than enough.

NCN Route 881 is one the most diverse routes I know of in South East Wales. It just seems to change every mile or so... which I find very interesting and enjoyable to cycle. I'll have to go back soon to see if they extend the path from Maerdy down to Ferndale... let's hope!
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Note: The map shown above covers my entire day of cycling from Oakdale to Pontypridd, Maerdy and back.

Stopping and starting as much as I did can take a lot out of ya, so I was pretty exhausted by the time I got home.

It was misty and rainy in the morning, but then it became mostly cloudy with some sun by the early afternoon. There was a light breeze in the afternoon and the temperature ranged from 10°c. to 13°c. (50°f. - 55°f.)... which was a little cool, but completely managable.

I think my next adventure will be to document NCN Route 478 from Abercynon to Hirwaun. We'll see...

If you made it this far, thanks for spending your time with me!

Seeya down the road... Cheers! - cm