Getting to Know the Valleys

Llanhilleth, Abertillery, Blaina, Nantyglo, & Blaenavon
It's an unfortunate, yet common sight along the valleys of Wales today; the once properous coal mining towns are now often deserted, run-down, and struggling to hang on. Join me as I explore the High Streets of the sleepy villages along the Ebbw Fach and Afon Llydd valleys.
Overview: Getting to Know the Valleys
Date: August 26, 2022
Distance: 63.6 miles / 102.35 kilometres
Elevation: + 3,631 ft / -3,631 ft
Duration: 12 hours, 17 mins.
Most of my focus whilst cycling has been to photograph the picturesque landscapes of this lovely little country. However, as I look back, I feel that I've been missing something. So I've gone back — this time I'm looking inward.

The cycle routes I often follow mostly run along disused rail lines which mainly avoid busy roads and especially the High Streets of most towns. It can be rather isolating at times. Today, I'm going straight up the heart of this valley to experience the towns and villages. I'm going to explore the towns of Ebbw Fach Valley.

The map below shows the primary route and the focus of the images that follow. You can see a map of my full-ride for the day at the end of this document.
ROUTE COLOUR KEY:  Traffic-free  Shared Use  Quiet Road  Steep Hill
Leaving Crumlin toward Llanhilleth the path follows along the old roadway, barely used, barely visible, fighting the undergrowth to remain.
Occasionally, I might see a dog walker, but this short .5 mi. ride is mostly desolate and quiet.

Once an elevated roadway, all that remains now is a narrow path seperated from a deep ravine over the rail line and the River Ebbw (image below).
Sustrans maintained this section at one time, but it's been a few years since I've seen any of their crew clearing the weeds. You've got to be careful to watch for broken glass and dog waste.
Llanhilleth to Abertillery
There's something to be said about a town that has a train station and Llanhilleth is one of the few to boast such a feature along this quiet valley.

The Llanhilleth Miner's Institute recently had a major refurbishment and hosts a number of community events as well as having a popular café. (image below).
With the exception of cars, time feels as if it stopped decades ago along the neighbourhood streets of this small town.
New car or front garden? The decision was clear for the folks in the image below.
In fact, the streets are lined with cars, but I don't see a soul. Houses are for sale, some have sold, some not. The whole place feels indifferent to progress.
I pass an abandoned railway platform on the cycle path heading toward the village of Six Bells. I wonder if cars negated the need for trains or if the end of train service required everyone to have a car? It's somewhat ironic that these disused train lines now make wonderful walking and cycling paths.
Abertillery to Blaina
So I ask myself as I pedal into town, where is everyone? It's weirdly quiet.
Is this shop just closed or out of business? I can see some carpets in the window, but it looks mostly filled with building materials?
Then I just stumbled across the town's war memorial, tucked off to the side of these houses. The rows of plastic flowers show that folks give the place some attention, but the memorial itself feels lost.
The High Street in Abertillery is clean and tidy. The hanging baskets are colourful and flowers are growing in the planters, but most of the shops are closed. I see an old man slowly loading boxes in a van. He looks long past retirement and uninspired.

I say; "mornin'" as I cycle past and he replies back enthusiastically; "good morning!" So I stop and ask how's he doing? He straightens up with a wide smile and replies; "I'm not doin' so bad, just taking a few things into the charity shop here..."

I look up the street and say that it seems pretty quiet for a High Street. To which he shakes his head: "Yeah, it's tough times these days. This place used to be so busy you could hardly walk up the street from all the people. Shops were open, you could buy anything ya wanted here. People came out just to see people too back then."

I ask where is everyone now? And he says; "I guess workin' down in Cardiff, not here. There aren't any jobs around here anymore. I don't know what the young folks do. Most of 'em move out. Nothin' but us old folks left these days." He shakes his head again and looks down at the pavement; "Times have changed, that's for sure."
Leaving town I pass houses and cars — cars all parked. There is virtually no traffic.

Off to my right, I hear a loud bang and then several crashes like a large appliance fell down a flight of stairs. Then a car alarms begins to sound. Suddenly a man and woman begin yelling at each other — I can hear their every word perfectly.

A few hundred feet further up, sheep graze lazily along the roadside with no distractions or visable concerns (below).
The Hospital Garage could use some life-saving attention (above) and I can't tell if the hotel (below) is being restored or torn down? And then I realize that this is often symbolic of the Valleys, in general.
Coming into Blaina, I pass another good looking pub, but again, I cannot tell if the Queens Hotel is still in business?
Blaina to Nantyglo
An old lady in her electric cart stops and glares at me outside the Red Lion. After I took this photo, I asked her how long the pub had been closed. She just grumbled something under her breath, turned her head, and scooted off.
Behind me, the Blaina Heritage Museum stands proudly across the street (image below). Despite the tattered bunting, the building looks surprisingly good and well cared for. The front door is open and I should go in. But, I know that I'll be in there for hours, chatting with folks eager to tell me stories, stories I'd love to hear. But I must keep going. I say to myself, somewhat guiltily; "next time" and pedal up the road.
Just up the hill, the Bush Inn stands defiantly in front of the Salem Baptist Chapel. Flyers for local bands hang in the windows. I could hear men's voices and the sounds of things being shuffled about from upstairs. But once I got home, I discovered that this place too has closed.
Overall, the High Street looked pretty dire. Most all of the storefronts are boarded-up and even the few shops that do appear open — look a little questionable.
I have to say though, that the streets and pavements are very clean. I didn't see any garbage laying about or other sorts of litter... they're looked after, just empty.
Nantyglo through Blaenavon
Heading into Nantyglo, empty shops and boarded-up storefronts continue to dominate the High Street. Bleached out posters in windows show dates from nearly ten years past. You can sense that these villages were once vibrant and alive, but that feels like a long time ago.
Looking through the window of the Nantyglo Community shop I can see a vast collection of worn paperbacks, VHS tapes, and a museum of porcelain figurines depicting little boys and girls, assorted animals, and whatnot. Chipped crockery filling unwanted cabinets from forgotten relatives. Again, I feel the tug to go in... chat with the locals, but shamefully I did not. It is on my list for when I return.
Leaving Nantyglo I joined NCN Route 466, which follows the road at this point and made a short side trip out to a local landmark with an intriguing history; the Nantyglo Round Towers.
The sign is subtle and easy to miss (image above) and without prior knowledge, one might be disappointed with the "castle" expectation, but the "devil is in the details", as they say.
Nantyglo Round Towers
It's impossible to discuss the Round Towers without discussing the Nantyglo Ironworks and to understand the ironworks you must also know something of the two brothers that owned and operated the massive complex that once dominated this small valley.
Nant-y-Glo Ironworks 1820 — image courtesy of the National Library of Wales
In 1811, Joseph Bailey and Mathew Wayne purchased the lease to the long-dormant Nantyglo Ironworks. They immediately set about updating the furnaces and machinery which greatly revived the works so successfully that Matthew Wayne soon sold-out his partnership to Joseph Bailey's brother; Crawshay Bailey.

Thus began the infamous legacy of the Baileys at Nantyglo. The brothers were nephews to the great Ironmaster Richard Crawshay of Cyfartha Ironworks and having worked closely with their uncle, they had extensive knowledge and experience in the iron industry. This experience combined with astute business acumen and exceptional wealth lead them to be two very powerful men in South Wales.
Nant-y-Glo Ironworks 1835 — image courtesy of the National Museum of Wales
At the height of production during the early part of the 19th century, the Nantyglo Ironworks was one of the most important iron producing centres in the world. By 1820 the works consisted of five furnaces producing 17,500 tons of iron per week. (For comaprison; "The production of all the ironworks at this time was not very great, with Blaenavon ironworks sending 21 tons of pig iron per week to Newport in 1802. At the same time Ebbw Vale and Beaufort sending on average 31 tons per week, and Clydach only 9 tons.[1]") It was during this time that Nantyglo Ironworks became a leading supplier of iron used for the burgeoning railroads thoughout Europe and the United States.

Despite successful production at the ironworks, working conditions for the men, women, and children were appalling. Fluctations in the demand for iron directly affected the price at which iron was sold. Ironmasters would often cut wages to maintain profits so that workers never knew exactly how much they earned from week to week. Despite being remarkable businessmen, the profits Joseph and Crawshay Bailey earned were not only from their strong understanding of the iron industry, but also from ruthless treatment of their employees.
Nant-y-Glo House — image courtesy of the Blaina & Nantyglo Community Archive
Living conditions for the workers were deplorable as well. Houses were built as the need for employees grew, but most houses were without basic sanitation. Additionally, the houses were owned by the ironmaster, so that if a worker was let-go for any reason, he (and his family) also lost their home. This fear alone was incentive enough to keep most workers from rebeling.

Another aspect of control the ironmaster held over their workforce was the implimentation of payment "tokens". The details are scarce, but in lieu of actual monies, the ironmaster paid their workers in coins issued by themselves or by associate companies[2]. These tokens, which had wildy variable values, were ony redeemable at the company owned shop.

All of these situations combined to make Nantyglo and the ironworks a very volatile environment. Public outcry along with the threat of strikes was commonplace, however trade unions were illegal at this time. Some friendly societies were allowed by the ironmasters, collecting money to provide for assistance during sickness or death benefits for their members, but these societes were only allowed as long as they remained benevolent. Inevitably, over time they became more radical as tensions with the ironmasters grew.
When Joseph and Richard Crawshaw severly cut ironworkers wages, they became fearful of an violent uprising from their employees, which lead the brothers to construct the stone towers and fortified enclosure over the next several years. (The exact date of their construction is unknown, but believed to be c. 1816 - 1820)
Fortunately, the riots were averted and the towers were never needed, although the British military did hold camp within the enclosure sometime during the early 1830's as the Chartist Movement (or Chartism) was beginning.
The northern tower consists of two storeys; a ventilated ground floor for the storage of food and other essential provisions in case of siege, whilst a spiral stone staircase set into the interior wall provided access to the upper storeys — housing the ironmaster and family.

The tower roof was cast at the ironworks which is formed of slotted iron sections, interlocked (in a 'petal' fashion), then inlaid with brick. The structural features and many of the tower fittings were cast in iron as it was readily available and cheaper than wood.
Some slight restoration was undertaken on the northern tower during 1996 which can be seen in the lighter colored stonework (image above).
The south tower has mostly collapsed and stands in ruin behind a large hedge, inaccessable by foot (image above).
For more information: Wikipedia - Nantyglo Round Towers, The Round House Farm, Brynmawr Historical Society, Nantyglo Round Towers by Jeffrey L. Thomas, Out of the Blue Artifacts, Wales Online , and Industrial Wales - Monmouthshire's Western Valley, Nantyglo and Brynmawr

[1] Early Industrial Development by Alquin M.J.Grubb
[2] Out of the Blkue Artifacts - William Williams Company
I then rode through the town of Brynmawr without stopping. I don't know why exactly? Sobering thoughts perhaps?

Perhaps I took Brynmawr for granted because I've been there so often? Looking back, I regret it, for in-depth exploration was the plan for this trip. However, my list of things to do on my next ride is growing.

Leaving Brynmawr and passing through Garn Lakes (documented here) and into the Afon Llwyd Valley, my attentions changed significantly. The town of Blaeavon has a distinctly different feel. Firstly, and more importantly, this town is a World Heritage site.
The Blaenavon World Heritage Centre (above) is the focal point for a collection of facilities that shaped all of the South Wales Valleys during the Industrial Age. UNESCO inscribed the Blaenavon Industrial Landscape as a World Heritage Site in 2000 for it's contibution as the world’s major producer of iron and coal during the 19th centruy.

Here you'll find a unique collection industrial complexes which have been restored to provide a historical record of the necessary elements used with the production of iron, including Big Pit National Coal Museum, furnaces and ironworkers’ cottages at Blaenavon Ironworks, railway systems at Blaenavon Heritage Railway, as well as community churches, chapels, a school, and the Blaenavon Workman's Hall (image below).
These fascinating facilites attrack tourists from all over the world and fosters a strong community with a burgeoning economy. It's a unique feature of the Valleys and one that most residents embrace with a sense of pride.

The High Street and surrounding shops are open and business appears good. Th town centre’s only Post Office, Blaenafon Cheddar Company, Butterflies Bar & Kitchen, and The Lion Hotel are just a few of the thriving businesses to be found..
It's important to appreciate the significance these valleys once played on the global stage, but it's also a chilling reminder that those days are gone.
As I pedal through the streets; this is what I see.
Where are the people? I see plenty of parked cars, but I don't see anyone walking about. It's very odd and feels strange.
I left Blaenavon with little fanfare, heading through a sleeply housing estate along quite streets where I then got onto the cycle path (NCN Rotue 492) down the valley to Pontypool.
Summary - Getting to Know the Valleys
There are signs of life, the valleys are not without some form of modern business. I saw a "Greggs" in Abertillery, as well as a "Boots". Blaina even has a newly built "Coop". But to be fair... there was not much else.

The High Streets generally have a pub that has been pouring pints for a century, a charity shop (or two); selling worn paperbacks tattered clothing, a vast assortment of crockery, and VHS tapes. You might find a newsagent offering candy, milk, and cheap beer. But sadly, the streets are often dominated by boarded-up storefronts — closed for decades, unfortunate reminders of times long past.
Note: The map below shows my entire ride for the day
It's a sobering experience to cycle along these barren streets — not quite ghost towns but still feeling ghostly.

This was my first in-depth study and I plan to head back again this fall for some further exploration. There are several areas I missed and I wish to dig deeper. This is just the beginning of an ongoing study of the South East Valleys.

I hope you enjoyed my report and thanks for reading!

Seeya down the road... Cheers! - cm
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