NCN Route 475 & the National Mining Memorial
On Saturday the 14th of October in 1913, an explosion occured in the quiet Aber Valley at the Universal Colliery in Senghennydd. 439 men and boys were killed in the worst colliery disaster in British mining history.
Overview: Senghennydd Memorial Ride
Date: Sunday, September 3, 2023
Distance: 54.4 mi. / 87.55 km
Elevation: +2,941 ft / -2,893 ft
Duration: 9 hours, 30 mins.
Distance: 54.4 mi. / 87.55 km
Elevation: +2,941 ft / -2,893 ft
Duration: 9 hours, 30 mins.
Despite being a lovely summer day and enjoying being out on my bicycle, this was a somewhat somber ride through the hidden Aber Valley. Nestled in the heart of South Wales, sleepy Senghennydd was once a busy mining community.
The goal of the ride was two-fold; firstly, I wanted to photograph NCN Route 475 as it travels north from Caerphilly as part of my ongoing project to document all of the NCN Routes in South East Wales. Then secondly, I wished to visit the Aber Valley Heritage Museum and photograph the National Mining Memorial in Senghennydd.
I first cycled down to Bedwas along Old Maesycymmer Road and then into Caerphilly along NCN Route 4. After photographing the route and visiting the memorial garden, I wandered off toward Machen and Bassaleg again following NCN Route 4. I finally made my way back home along NCN Route 47 through Sirhowy Valley Country Park and making this a much longer overall ride for the day (as shown in the map below.)
The goal of the ride was two-fold; firstly, I wanted to photograph NCN Route 475 as it travels north from Caerphilly as part of my ongoing project to document all of the NCN Routes in South East Wales. Then secondly, I wished to visit the Aber Valley Heritage Museum and photograph the National Mining Memorial in Senghennydd.
I first cycled down to Bedwas along Old Maesycymmer Road and then into Caerphilly along NCN Route 4. After photographing the route and visiting the memorial garden, I wandered off toward Machen and Bassaleg again following NCN Route 4. I finally made my way back home along NCN Route 47 through Sirhowy Valley Country Park and making this a much longer overall ride for the day (as shown in the map below.)
However, the photographs and text included in this report focus specifically on documenting NCN Route 475 and the memorial garden.
The screen shot shown to the right is the final route created from this ride;
This NCN Route 475 page (shown right) is a much shorter and condensed version of the ride, yet it includes a map of just NCN Route 475. You may click the image to go directly to this Route to Ride page.
For an overview of all my Regional Routes project, visit; Regional Routes: The Valleys
The screen shot shown to the right is the final route created from this ride;
Aber Valley
475
Caerphilly - Senghennydd
For an overview of all my Regional Routes project, visit; Regional Routes: The Valleys
Let's Get Started!
Caerphilly to Senghennydd
NCN Route 475 starts off unassumingly, just of NCN Route 4 (The Celtic Trail) on the western side of the castle in Caerphilly. Some new signage helps, but as with most town centres, there is a great deal of signage to sort through and this is a tricky route to follow as it first zig-zags its way across town.
Because the castle is in the centre of town, there are numerous paths weaving around the castle and accompanying park. Aside from the numerous signs to filter, pedestrians will be your main concern. (Weekdays can be rather quiet, but the weekends are quite busy.)
Anyone who has tried bicycling through a city or town can attest to the difficulty with following the little red & blue signs. They are often mixed-in with a plethora of other signage, quite small, and often just a sticker applied to a post which has now become faded and/or disfigured. (Many now need replacing.)
As you can see from the image above, the number for this route is nolonger visable on the lightpole. Then in the image below, the route number is very small and has been added to a generic directional sign as an afterthought.
Narrow lanes, car parks, and a variety of paths from which to choose — can all leave you scratching your head in confusion. Honestly, it's best to have either a printed map or a digital version with you as you navigate the many twists and turns on this first section of the route.
I had to explore the park a bit before I spotted the route sign, far in the distance, to continue my journey (image above.)
After exiting the park, the route becomes a "shared-use" path following the somewhat busy Brynhyfryd Road (B4263). From here the route is well-marked and there are dropped curbs at the several quiet road crossings.
Within .25 mi., from the park you will reach a narrow underpass for the rail line. The pavement is quite narrow so you should disembark for your bicycle and walk in case you meet someone coming from the other direction.
Once on the other side, the pavement widens and you may continue cycling for another .10 mi. before reaching a second underpass.
Just before the second underpass, the route turns left from the the shared-use pavement onto a traffic-free section. And again, the route number has been added to a directional sign (as an afterthought) and barely visable.
This short section of the route is rather nice as it travels behind a housing estate and below the very busy A469 for roughly .25 mi.
Near the top of this section you will approach the very busy roundabout of the A469. Just to your right will be a large set of stairs leading up and over the junction.
It is awkward and somewhat difficult to manage, but you must disembark your bicycle to climb the stairs on foot. Because vehicle traffic is so busy at this junction, there are no dropped curbs and fences encircle the roundabout to prevent pedestrains from crossing any other way than by the footbridge.
The reason for the extensive fencing becomes apparent once you have crossed the foobridge; there are two schools adjacent to the far side of the junction.
BE FOREWARNED! Prior to and soon after school ends on weekdays, this area is extremely busy. Hundreds of parents and their children (as well as pets) funnel through these narrow paths. It can be a nightmare.
Fortunately for me, I'm cycling on a Sunday morning and it's deathly quiet. Now having successfully navigated the footbridge, the route crosses St. Cenydd Road and continues down the hill as a shared-use path.
The pavement is exceptionally wide and smooth with excellent dropped curbs. (I'm sure this is due in part to being so close to the schools.)
At the bottom of the hill, the route climbs a short distance up the opposite side to the entrance of Aber Cycleway on your left.
Although unsigned as such, Aber Cycleway is in fact, NCN Route 475. It is traffic-free for the next 3 mi. and leads all the way to the village of Senghennydd.
And the route is quiet, wooded, and secluded for practically the entire way.
I stopped so many times to take photographs, you'd think the route is much longer — it was just a lovely morning and I hardly saw a soul.
Under a canopy, within a cathedral of trees.
Roughly 1.5 mi. up the path, signs of civilisation emerge as you approach Abertridwr.
Despite being a little worn from the weather, it's lovely to see the community come together to remember and highlight its past — especially with such a decorative flair.
It was along here that I met one of the few people I saw along the route. He was walking his dog and politely asked why I was taking photos. We chatted for a few minutes as I explained. He chuckled, saying; "there's not much reason to come up here these days."
I hope he can one day see my photos. I hope I do this valley justice — because it is charming.
I hope he can one day see my photos. I hope I do this valley justice — because it is charming.
The Workmens Institute silently awaits it's next life just above the Square in Abertridwr. It's not hard to re-imagine the building as a fantastic theatre/showplace. Maybe one day...
The Aber Valley Cycleway continues across the road and beside the Workmens Institute. (Again no signage indicating NCN Route 475.)
Here it became a little confusing. I wandered a bit because of the on-going construction. I'm guessing that houses are going up here as they seem to be clearing the land?
I finally noticed a small blue sticker on the back side of a bench which I find a bit too subtle for my liking.
I finally noticed a small blue sticker on the back side of a bench which I find a bit too subtle for my liking.
But to be fair, I should come back to see how the construction plays out. If new houses are being built, perhaps this part of the path may get a refreshing?
The valley opens up soon after leaving the construction site. It's a stunning day.
A gentle wind blows at my back as I stand and look acoss the rolling hillside. Sturdy little houses stand in rows against a backdrop of green. I can hear children playing in the distance.
Another dog-walker, another chat... and I pop out at Senghennydd.
There is a sticker on the gate pointing right for NCN Route 475 (thankfully!).
From here, NCN Route 475 enters a quiet road heading down the hill. Turning right at the junction and roughly 500 ft. ahead on the right side of Gwern Ave. is the Aber Valley Heritage Museum.
Unfortunately for me, on this day it was closed. Rats!
The message on the door read: "Between 1st November 2023 – 1st March 2024, Aber Valley Heritage Museum will accept visitors on an appointment only basis. Tuesday – Saturday 11:00am – 2:00pm To book your visit, please e-mail bookings@abervalleyheritage.co.uk."
The message on the door read: "Between 1st November 2023 – 1st March 2024, Aber Valley Heritage Museum will accept visitors on an appointment only basis. Tuesday – Saturday 11:00am – 2:00pm To book your visit, please e-mail bookings@abervalleyheritage.co.uk."
Appointment only? Who makes an appointment to visit a heritage centre? I guess people don't come here enough to make it sustainable. It's a sad sign of the times. They've a good little website though and it's worth visiting: Aber Valley Heritage Museum.
I rode a little further down to the High Street and it was like a ghost town. Perhaps it is because it's Sunday? I dunno?, but no one was about.
Not a single car passed as I stood in the middle of the road and took photos. It was eerie.
The Leigh Hotel and Social Club was closed, but does appear to be havng some work done.
Note: A quick search on the Internet uncovered this: The Leigh Social Club. Now I've got three reasons to return!
Then I was back up the road to the entrance of the Senghenydd National Mining Memorial.
Once inside you immediately feel the somberness of the memorial. Leading into the garden is a "Path of Memory" which lists the names of men and boys who gave their lives at numerous coal mine disasters across Wales.
Then encircling the central statue is a "Remembrance Wall", on which are 521 individual clay tiles naming each of the victims from the 1913 disaster, as well as the names of those lost in an earlier disaster in 1901.
Then encircling the central statue is a "Remembrance Wall", on which are 521 individual clay tiles naming each of the victims from the 1913 disaster, as well as the names of those lost in an earlier disaster in 1901.
It is moving to walk and read their names. To see their ages, the brothers that died together, the fathers and sons never to return to their families; the shear number of them is humbling and hard to grasp.
On Saturday the 14th of October in 1913, an huge underground explosion occured at Universal Colliery in Senghennydd. 439 men and boys were killed making it the worst colliery disaster in British mining history. (A rescue worker later died, bringing the total to 440.)
The explosion was in all likelyhood caused by the accidental ignition of highly-combustible methane which had built-up in the mine shafts. Additionally, it was further fueled by dry coal dust which covered the mine shafts floors and walls. The fire spread quickly and trapped the men and boys underground. The initial blast was so strong it blew the two-ton lift cage up into the mine-shaft headgear.
The Senghennydd disaster had a devasting impact on the community. It left behind 205 widows, 542 children, and 62 dependent parents. It was said that nearly every household in the small community lost someone and everyone was effected, in one way or another.
Photographer W. Benton, who specialised in recording disasters, reached Senghennydd shortly after the explosion. Here, he most famously captured a "little mother" on the hillside waiting for news. Perhaps the most poignant image of the event which was shared on newspapers across the world and later portrayed in the memorial gardens
Prince Charles (now King Charles) and the Duchess of Cornwall (now Queen Camilla) paid tribute to Wales’ and its coal mining past during a visit to Senghennydd in 2014. As part of their tour of Wales, the Royal couple laid a wreath at the foot of the Welsh National Mining Memorial, then took a brief tour of the Aber Valley Heritage Centre.
This was but my brief synopsis of the disaster. I suggest visiting any of the websites listed below for a more detailed account of this horrific event. Better yet, take time to go to Sengennydd. Visit the heritage centre and see the memorial yourself.
It was estimated that over 1,000 people in the area were bereaved by the Senghennydd disaster. And yet, despite the resulting enquiry finding numerous faults that could be laid at the door of the owners and managers, when compensation and fines were levied they came to a derisive £24 – in total! As one newspaper commented, that meant that miners lives were worth just ‘£0 1s 1 1/4d’ – a sum that, these days, would equate to no more than six pence." — Aber Valley Heritage Group
This was but my brief synopsis of the disaster. I suggest visiting any of the websites listed below for a more detailed account of this horrific event. Better yet, take time to go to Sengennydd. Visit the heritage centre and see the memorial yourself.
Resources: Aber Valley Heritage Group, The National Library of Wales, Wikipedia / Senghennydd Colliery Disaster, The Welsh Government / National Mining Disaster Memorial Garden of Wales, The Observer, Gary Stockbridge Public Domain Search Engine / Senghennydd Colliery Disaster, The Independent, and BBC News / Remembering Senghennydd
This statue is based upon the last photo in the sidebar shown above; "Waiting for News", photo by; W. Benton, sculpture by; Dai Edwards.
I left under a cystal clear blue sky thinking how sad and devasting life must have been following the disaster. Wondering what were the days, months, and years like for the families left behind to recover? How did they recover? Did the mine reopen?
I sort of drifted around the village then. I was just looking at the empty park, the quiet streets, and rolling images across my mind; trying to imagine the world around me as it might have been 100 years ago.
Then I found a narrow lane leading up the hill and around behind the houses.
It was so quiet and peaceful.
I stumbled across a collection of ramshackle tin sheds and wooden lean-to's nestled in the scrub of the hillside. Random windows and doors were strapped together with bailing wire and chains. I could hear a man whistling slightly, mumbling a bit, talking to someone, maybe? When suddenly, a gate swung open.
Out came a dog racing straight for me, wagging his tail like I was his best friend and behind him a towering man with wild, long white hair and beard of equal colour, lumbered casually, smiling. He raised an arm and said; "how do."
Out came a dog racing straight for me, wagging his tail like I was his best friend and behind him a towering man with wild, long white hair and beard of equal colour, lumbered casually, smiling. He raised an arm and said; "how do."
He lead me into his allotment and showed me his eclectic garden. We spoke for nearly an hour. He had been a train engineer; "... driving coal down the valleys for almost 50 years... 'til they closed the pits. It was a good life then. Good people. Everyone knew everybody else. I was lucky."
Before I left, he packed my handlebar bag with vegetables and said to come back anytime. Smiling, gentle eyes.
Before I left, he packed my handlebar bag with vegetables and said to come back anytime. Smiling, gentle eyes.
Summary: Senghennydd Memorial Ride
I am consistently amazed with the small adventures I find whilst cycling in Wales. I set out to photograph a bicycle route and visit a museum. Yet, what I will always remember is what I didn't photograph at all.
I rode another 30 miles after my short trip to Senghennydd. I didn't take any more photos and to be honest, I don't recall the ride home at all.
I rode another 30 miles after my short trip to Senghennydd. I didn't take any more photos and to be honest, I don't recall the ride home at all.
It's been a year now since my little adventure to Senghennydd and writing this report makes me want to return. Funny too, it's how I felt after my very first trip to Wales nearly 15 years ago. I am a lucky boy indeed.
I hope you enjoyed my little write-up and thanks for reading!
Seeya down the road... Cheers! - cm
I hope you enjoyed my little write-up and thanks for reading!
Seeya down the road... Cheers! - cm
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