My Rides: Newport Wetlands & Seawall

Visiting A National Nature Reserve Along Our Coast

Cycle adventures don't have to travel great distances or visit foreign lands to be epic. Some of Wales best cycling can be found in quiet locations, tucked along our coast.

Overview: Newport Wetlands & Seawall

Date: November 10, 2023
Distance: 66.4 mi. / 106.86 km
Elevation: +1,881 ft / -1,845 ft
Duration: 8 hrs, 37 mins.

Following National Cycle Routes 88 & 4 along the coastline of the Severn Estuary between Cardiff and Chepstow lies an unusual area of wide, open, flat fields, divided by a network of man-made watercourses known as the Gwent Levels.

Disregarding most of my ride for the day, this report focuses primarily on the small jewel situated at the heart of "the Levels" and a quaint little cycle path that circles the Newport Wetlands National Nature Reserve.

As you head south of Newport, the land becomes unusually flat for Wales. Open fields run wide at both sides of the lanes, traffic is quiet, and you'll find yourself gliding along, head-up, gazing across a green and verdant landscape.

Dating back as far as the the Roman Era, this area of inter-tidal saltmarshes and mudflats is completely man-made. For over 2,000 years people have plowed and farmed and re-shaped the estuary into a distinctive landscape unlike any other you'll find in Wales.

By the Middle Ages, the majority of this land had been divided by what are locally known as reens. This unique landscape now offers a diverse range of habitats for rare plant and animal species, all of which make this area a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI).

The Newport Wetlands Nature Reserve

Following NCN Route 4 south of Newport you'll pass the small community of Nash. And just a mile south further south, outside this sleepy coastal village lies the Newport Wetlands National Nature Reserve. This surprising gem showcases a unique wildlife habitat and distinctive environment well-worth an afternoon of exploring.

The Newport Wetlands is primarily run by the Royal Society for the Protection of Birds (RSPB) and a partnership between Natural Resources Wales and Newport City Council. The site also includes an Environmental Education and Visitor Centre, a café, gift shop, and toilets.

Of particular interest to the cyclist is the Coastal Path; a roughly 3 mi. (4.8 km) route around the Nature Reserve (dotted-red line in the map above). Some of the highlights include the East Usk Lighthouse, views over the Severn Estuary, bird-hides, and many benches along the way to sit, relax, and admire the views.

The path around the Wetlands starts along the western side of the main entrance. It's a little hard to spot at first, but if you cycle to the farthest edge of the car park, you'll soon spot it.

It had rained overnight on the day I cycled down and just as it says on the tin; this is the wetlands... so be prepared. There can be standing water along sections of the path.

From the car park, the path first enters a thick wooded section. It's surprisingly dark and secluded for a place so close to the water. Soon you'll pass through a small gate and turn sharply to the left.

Then the path opens up onto wide grassy levels and looks more like what you might expect. Muddy bogs, salt marshes, and tall grasses line both sides of the path as you then weave your way slowly toward the coastline.

The path itself is narrow and made of smooth fine gravel. There are often walkers, sometimes with dogs, so show caution as there are several blind turns.

Then quite suddenly, you emerge onto the coast at Uskmouth. Here the River Usk empties into the Severn Estuary. Directly across the water, on the far side, sits the West Usk Lighthouse.

At nearly 78 miles in length, the River Usk is the longest river to flow wholly within Wales. Having started high in the Black Mountains this mighty river first flows north into the Usk Reservoir. It then turns east passing though the towns of Sennybridge and Brecon, before turning southeast and continuing through Talybont-on-Usk, Crickhowell, and Abergaveny. Passing through the eponymous town of Usk, the river then turns south heading past it's tidal highpoint at Newbridge-on-Usk and weaving its way past the Roman fortress at Caerleon, through the heart of Newport to where it finally empties into the Severn Estuary, here at Uskmouth just west of the Newport Wetlands.

The River Usk as it passes under the bridge at Brecon

The entirety of the river has been designated a Site of Special Scientific Instrest (SSSI) as it provides a diverse habitat for both flora and fauna. Along with its extensive estuary, saltmarsh, and mudflats, there is also a great variety of grasslands and woodland habitats found throughout its lengthy course.

The River Usk outside the town of its namsake.

Well known across the UK for its excellent fishing, some of the breeds include Atlantic salmon, shad, lamprey, European perch, and brown trout. Additionally, protected wildlife include European otters and wildfoul such as kingfishers, grey herons, dippers, and even red kites which can be commonly spotted upriver.

The River Usk passing under the legendary Newport Transporter Bridge.

The river, as well as the Vale of Usk, has played a significant role throughout history as the Romans built their first legionary fortress Burrium along its river banks in what is now the town of Usk. Then later, the Romans moved south to establish their largest presence in Wales during the "Roman Period" at the town of Isca Augustus, now known as Caerleon.

Extensive medieval texts from Geoffrey of Monmouthshire describe much on both the historical and the fictional life found along this river. Although now somewhat discredited, Historium Regum Britanniae remains a valuable piece of medieval literature for it also contains the legend of King Arthur, as well as the earliest known version of the story of King Lear. In fact, it wasn't until the 13th century that French romances began to replace the name Caerleon with Camelot, with many details derived directly from Geoffrey's earlier descriptions of Wales and the Vale of Usk.

By the seventeenth century, watermills were common along the riverbanks, mostly for the milling of corn for flour production, however; tinworks and timbermills were also built to use the strong and steady flow of water. Stone structures and leats; remnants of it's pre-industrial heritage can still be found in places along its banks.

In 2002, the remains of a ship, most likely a trading vessel dating from the mid-1400's was discovered buried deep within the mud near Newport; another reminder of the river's long-standing use in transport and trade.

Resources: Wikipedia - River Usk, Usk, Burrium, Geoffrey of Monmouthshire, The Newport Ship, and Caerleon.

But I digress, which is too easily done in a place with so much history. Let us return to our exploration of the Wetlands Nature Reserve.

From Uskmouth, the path turns 90° sharply to the left and begins to snake southeast along the Severn Estuary.

The views are wide and open across the estuary where far on the other side lies England. Somewhere along here too, the Severn widens further to become the Bristol Channel.

As you continue, you will soon see in the distance, the East Usk Lighthouse poking its head above the tall grass.

With the tide out, the remaining seagrasses become a vast dinner plate for birds and a variety of other wildlife as the muddy shore is awash with an array of sea detritus.

A floating walkway from the Wetlands Visitor Centre leads directly here to the East Usk Lighthouse where benches and picnic tables are scattered for visitors to relax and enjoy the scenery. By U.S. standards, this lighthouse is but a little-bitty thing and cannot be much over 20 feet tall.

As vast and beautiful as the Newport Wetlands Nature Reserve appear, it's important to understand that this area is but a fraction of the much larger Gwent Levels. Covering nearly 26,000 acres of alluvial and intertidal mudflats along the northen banks of the Severn Estuary, the Gwent Levels comprises two distinct areas of flat-wide wetlands —resting on either side of the River Usk estuary.

From the mouth of the Rhymney River (in the southwest) to the mouth of the River Usk is the Wentloog Level. Whilst from the mouth of River Usk all the way to the mouth of the River Wye (northeast at Chepstow), is the Caldicot Level.

Image courtesy of courtesy of Living Levels

Of particular interest is that there have been patterns of settlement, land enclosures and drainage systems belonging to successive periods of use. Surprising discoveries have been made from the Mesolithic, Bronze Age and Iron Age periods.

Rectangular Iron Age buildings disovered along the coast outside the village of Goldcliff.

Most notably recognized as being reclaimed from the sea during the Roman occupation of Wales, this pastoral landscape remains a network of fertile fields criss-crossed by watercourses, known locally as reens. Drained, irrigated, and modified to allow productive farming, these grazed pastures with hedgerows, ditches, reed beds and grasslands also provide a diverse range of semi-natural habitats for rare plant and animal species. Some parts are now designated as Sites of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI).

The Gwent Levels are so expansive and have such a rich history; I have barely scratched the surface. However, I found a tremndous amount of resources of which the most notable is the thoughtoughly developed website LivingLevels.org. Meanwhile, take a look at this lovely video (above), check out some of the links below and visit the Gwent Levels yourself.

Resources: Wikipedia - Severn Esturary, Caldicot and Wentloog Levels, Goldcliff, Cambriea Typus. Living Levels.org.uk, Living Levels | GIS

I stopped by the lighthouse to take the ubiqitous bike shot, read the information board and just gaze at the landscape, the seascape, and the sky. From the sound of birds, the wash of the water over the shore, the smell of the salt air... it's simply magnificient.

In the distance, a boat leaving the Usk Estuary honks it's horn dully as gulls circle and shreak overhead. I wave my arm enthusiastically... hoping to make contact, sending a friendly hello from the shore.

I poke around a bit more. Shoot some photographs... think about the power station standing in the distance. They've got to put them somewhere and despite the contrast, it doesn't look too offensive. I think again too that if this was the U.S., there would be houses and condos, hotels and strip malls, and over-developed resort real estate all over this place.

Time to move on.

The grasslands along this section are naturally raised above the sea. The path is perfectly flat, smooth, and follows the gentle curve of the coastline.

The stones along the banks of the shore are purposely placed to prevent erosion and because the estuary is so calm, they seem to be doing an excellent job.

Looking back and looking ahead. Two perspectives from the same place.

There's my buddy in the boat again. (Yup, I waved again.)

Not only is it worthwhile to stop and have a tea or coffee in the visitor centre, but they've a great selection of pertinant information to understand about the Wetlands... one of which is a great little map showing all of the paths.

It is crucial to understand that depite all the paths found thoughout the nature reserve, there is only one path designated for cycling.

And that's just fine. At just under three miles, the cycle path is relatively short, but it encircles the entire Wetlands Reserve and is well worth the effort. As you can see from the images I've shown so far, I have the place practically to myself!

It was getting late in the afternoon and the shadows were beginning to get more pronounced as the deep gulleys reveal along the shore. This is not your typical sandy beach... I wouldn't imagine you could even walk across those mudflats.

Everything seems shaped by the wind and the sea.

I take one last look across the estuary; stretch out my arms and breathe in the salt air. It's fresh and clean and I like to think this is good for me. Healthful.

Then the path dips down behind a seawall. This is the beginning of a different sort of landscape as I'm now below sea level (at high tide.)

There's just .5 mi. before exiting the Wetlands Nature Reserve. I stop for another photo of my bike, because I have that type of sickness.

This last section was once a muddy nightmare to cycle or even walk through. Over the past few years the folks who manage the Wetlands have done a tremendous amount of work to improve accessability whilst maintaining a natural landscape. Good job folks. It looks great!

The image above is just a quick photo of the information board at the entrance/exit of the path. Not the best shot, but it gives you a pretty good idea of the extensive detail they have taken to describe the nature reserve and inform visitors. Thanks again folks!

Seawall, Goldcliff, and Redwick (briefly)

Leaving the Wetlands, I entered onto a small lane snaking my way east toward the tiny parrish of Goldcliff. It too has a fascinating history, but I'll leave that for another report (see the Living Levels for much more info.)

Looking at the map above you can see that much of the Levels is protected by an extensive seawall. This wall, built and rebuilt for nearly 2 millennia runs for 35m (approx. 22 miles!) This is needed because at high tides, the entire area, including the village of Goldcliff, lie below sea-level.

Additionally, at 14m, the Severn Estuary has one of the highest tidal ranges in the world, which means that most all of this area would be submerged under 1 - 2 metres of water at high tide — twice a day!

Along with the seawall, a vast network of inter-linking ditches or 'reens' were built to drain water back into the sea. The largest of these reens is "Monks Ditch" which passes through the very center of Goldcliff. Of particular interest too, is that local folklore maintains that the banks of Monks Ditch are lined with barrels of smugglers' brandy. Pretty cool, eh?

There's not much out here between the road and the marshes behind the seawall. It is said too, that the beef and lamb which graze in these salty flats have a particularly unique sea-flavour. I've yet to have any myself, but I'm very keen to try!

Just past Goldcliff there is a small road leading down to the seawall itself. At one time there was a family-run cafe that was a popular stop for cyclists. Unfortunately, it now seems to be permanantly closed. I took the photo above a few years back and not much has changed.

And the same goes for the seawall itself. It's still just as stunning as ever.

Across the water, on the distant far shore is the fishing village of Portishead (image above). Just to the north, the legenday River Avon empties into the Severn Estuary marking the boundary between Somerset and Bristol Counties of England.

There is a footpath that runs at the top of the seawall for its entire length (future adventure noted!) with access points down to the shore in various places.

The murky, salty smell of the sea is intoxicating to me and I could poke around in the mud all afternoon, but I need to start thinking about heading home.

There's one more stop I want to make before turning back to Newport and that's at Redwick.

I haven't been able to find any info about this lovely little building at the centre of Redwick, but the Church of St. Thomas has a rather lengthy history and there are several other notable buildings around the village. I'm posting this closing image as a sort of bookmark or reminder to myself for another adventure.

Summary: Newport Wetlands & Seawall

Overall, it was a surprisingly lovely November day with relatively mild temperatures. I wandered and photographed at my leisure and I pretty much had the coast to myself.

Meanwhile, I hope you've enjoyed my little write-up. I set out to document a simple ride around the Newport Wetlands Nature Reserve, but as I began writing this report, I discovered that I had missed so much!

I'm making plans as I write this. Goldcliff, Redwick, and the seawall all deserve more exploration. And at just over four miles from Newport, it's easy to go back!

I hope you enjoyed my report and thanks for reading!

Seeya down the road... Cheers! - cm

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