HEADING NORTH TO PONTSTICILL RESERVOIR FOR A LAZY AFTERNOON IN THE WOODS
In the fall of 2023 I went on a short adventure inspired by a trend happening across the U.S. In cities such as; Portland, Austin, and Seattle, people are getting together outside to share their enthusiasm for cycling and coffee. They call it "coffeeneuring".
Overview: Taf Fechan Forest Coffeeneuring
Date: September 14, 2023
Distance: 52.1 mi. / 83.85 km
Elevation: +3,017 ft / -2,969 ft
Duration: 9 hrs, 35 mins.
Distance: 52.1 mi. / 83.85 km
Elevation: +3,017 ft / -2,969 ft
Duration: 9 hrs, 35 mins.
What is the allure of a picnic? Why does food taste better when you cook and eat it outdoors? Why was I driven to ride my bike 25 miles just to sit on the ground in the woods and make coffee?
I don't know the answer to any of these mind-tingling questions, but I do know that I enjoy being outdoors, I love cycling and camping, and all that these entail. When I read about other folks going on short bike rides, meeting up and making coffee together — outside; I knew that I had to try if for myself.
Above Pontsticill Reservoir it is particularly remote and scenic, whilst the Taff Trail (NCN Route 8) is the premiere cycling route in South East Wales. With the route and location set; I was off for my first coffeeneuring event.
I don't know the answer to any of these mind-tingling questions, but I do know that I enjoy being outdoors, I love cycling and camping, and all that these entail. When I read about other folks going on short bike rides, meeting up and making coffee together — outside; I knew that I had to try if for myself.
Above Pontsticill Reservoir it is particularly remote and scenic, whilst the Taff Trail (NCN Route 8) is the premiere cycling route in South East Wales. With the route and location set; I was off for my first coffeeneuring event.
Oakdale to Pontsticill
Just look at her. I spent the day before cleaning her, adjusting the brakes and gears; fine-tuning everything. She was designed to do this very thing. I'm not racing; there is no rush... I'm going to take my time, take lots of photos and just enjoy being outside all day!
As usual for me, I over-pack. I don't worry about it too much because I believe in the mantra; "It is better to have it and not need it, than need it and not have it." Plus, I have to admit; I love carrying loads of gear on my bike.
It was a typical start for the day, heading up the Sirhowy Valley from Blackwood to Holly Bush and then on to Tredegar (NCN Route 467). Above Tredegar, I joined NCN Route 46 heading west across the Heads of the Valley.
I stopped briefly above Bute Town to photograph the Simnai Dirdro (Twisted Chimney) sculpture (image above). Originally unveiled in 2011, the piece was damaged this past year from high winds and sadly, its future is uncertain. I'll be sure to watch what happens next, but regardless, I'm glad I've got the photos.
I stopped briefly above Bute Town to photograph the Simnai Dirdro (Twisted Chimney) sculpture (image above). Originally unveiled in 2011, the piece was damaged this past year from high winds and sadly, its future is uncertain. I'll be sure to watch what happens next, but regardless, I'm glad I've got the photos.
I continued west along NCN Route 46 and the Heads of the Valley, passing through the sleepy villages of Dowlais and Pant before stopping at this wonderful view looking north toward Pontsticill (image above).
Down the hill just a short distance NCN Route 46 merges with NCN Route 8 (The Taff Trail). This is a popular junction and often you'll find cars parked along here as walkers and cyclists use this location as a starting/stopping point on the four-mile traffic-free section down to Merthyr Tydfil (image below).
Down the hill just a short distance NCN Route 46 merges with NCN Route 8 (The Taff Trail). This is a popular junction and often you'll find cars parked along here as walkers and cyclists use this location as a starting/stopping point on the four-mile traffic-free section down to Merthyr Tydfil (image below).
I'll also use this route for my return home, however for now, I continued north on NCN Route 8 (The Taff Trail) toward Pontsticill first passing under this narrow bridge.
Note: If you look closely in the image below, you can make out some wooden railing along the top of the bridge. At one time, the cycle path was planned to follow the old-disused rail line. However, a couple of years ago there was a major land slip further up ahead, so I'm unsure of whether this is still planned?
The upshot of the land slip is that the road was repaved and despite a rather noticable climb, the roadway itself is as smooth as glass and an absolute pleasure to cycle upon.
Once you reach Pontsticill Reservoir there is narrow road crossing the 110 feet high dam. Stopping to look over the edges is an absolute must.
On the southern side, the hydro-electric powerplant sits quietly below. Built in 1927, the Grade-II listed building is noted for its disticntive industrial architecture and despite being decomistioned in the 1950's, a new turbine engine was installed in 2006. This new powerplant serves over 106,000 customers in the Merthyr Tydfil area as well as other parts of the South Wales Valleys.
Did you know? — The 36kW hydro electric turbine is the first community hydro scheme in Wales and works off the compensation flow from Talybont Reservoir. After a seven year gap when Welsh Water were carrying out dam maintenance, Talybont on Usk Energy Ltd were able to restart the turbine in 2023 and began selling the electricity to invest in sustainable living projects within the small rural community. (see: Talybont Energy)
On the northern side, the dam holds more than 15 billion litres of water, whilst the surface area of the man-made lake covers roughly 250 acres.
On the opposite side, the road snakes through the sleepy village of Pontsticill, however, NCN Route 8 (Taff Trail) continues north toward Taf Fechan Forest.
And here is where the cycling fun really begins!
The first junction after leaving Pontsticill village turns left off the main road and directly into the forest (image above). Or rather what was the forest... they've been clearing the forest for timber and it's quite shocking to not see any trees!
Pontsticill Reservoir & Taf Fechan Forest
NCN Route 8 (Taff Trail) has an eastern and western route as it passes above Pontsticill Reservoir depending upon how you follow the Sustrans signposts (see the map below). If I continue north for another 1.5 mi. there's another entrance into the forest which makes a nice little 4 mi. loop back to the entrance shown above.
The views across the reservoir are quite impressive now and I understand the purpose of the land/forestry management, but I was shocked to at the severity of the cutting.
The views across the reservoir are quite impressive now and I understand the purpose of the land/forestry management, but I was shocked to at the severity of the cutting.
In the map below I've indicated the loop I'll be cycling. The eastern branch of NCN Route 8 follows along the shore of the reservoir (solid red line), whilst the western branch heads up into Taf Fechan Forest along an unpaved logging road (dashed red line).
Its called a forest and for the most it is a forest. However, at the time of my visit, much of the land had been recently cleared for timber by Natural Resources Wales — who oversee and manage the forest.
As shocking as it was to see the trees cut, the views across the reservoir are now rather nice.
Soon enough, the trees reappeared as the road descended a long, straight hill toward the northern end of the reservoir. The road had been recently re-tarmacked which made for a wonderfully smooth glide down along the reservoir!
Did you know? —The word "tarmacked" is an abbreviation of "tarmacadam", which is the full name of the material. Tarmacadam was patented in 1902 by Welsh inventor Edgar Purnell Hooley. It's a more durable and dust-free alternative to the compacted stone macadam surfaces invented by Scottish engineer John Loudon McAdam in the early 19th century. (see: Tarmacadam, Wikipedia)
At the next junction, NCN Route 8 vears left off the main road and begins a slow climb over the hill toward Talybont-on-Usk in the adjacent valley. (If you can sort out all the signs, which seems to me a bit excessive for such a small junction.)
However, just before the left turn on the paved road heading toward Talybont is an old logging road. It's easy to miss and many folks coming along don't notice the Sustrans sign, but this is the alternate/western route of the Taff Trail.
From here, the route is unpaved as it turns back and climbs high above the reservoir. This route will eventually lead back to the entrance I passed earlier and complete the loop.
It's a bit of a climb at first, but the views are worth the effort.
Don't be too proud to stop... looking back to see from where you've come is a justifiable reward. And Bannau Brychieniog is spectacular as well!
On a clear summer day, small sailboats can often be seen weaving across the water in the glistening sun. Today in the rain, it is quiet and solumn and I'm all alone in its reverence.
As I reached the highest point along the route, the road narrowed, the skies darkened and the rain began to pour. I wondered if I was going to be able to have my picnic or would I have to tuck-it-in and just head for home?
Then surprisingly, as I turned a corner the path became paved and fortunately too, I also moved under the cover of some trees as I then headed down into a small valley.
I had planned to stop for my coffee break on the other side of this kissing gate (image above), but the steady rain and soggy ground was just too much. If I was going to pull-off this coffeeneuring thing, I needed to find a better place.
It was getting difficult to use my camera, but despite the rain or rather because of the rain... the colours now seem rich and verdant.
This narrow bridge over the gorge is one of my favourites. It had fallen into disrepair and had been closed for nearly a year. It was wonderful to see it in good standing again. Thanks Sustrans!
This narrow bridge over the gorge is one of my favourites. It had fallen into disrepair and had been closed for nearly a year. It was wonderful to see it in good standing again. Thanks Sustrans!
It wasn't until I got home and began editing the photos that I noticed the many rain drops that had landed on my lense. Despite the blurriness of some areas, I kinda like these "happy accidents" because they help convey the feeling of the day.
On the other side of the gorge, the path climbs back up to re-join another logging road. There's a large clearing where you can see the burnt outline of a campfire where I imagine campers have previously stayed. It looks like a great spot as well.
But I need coverage under the trees if I'm to have my coffee and just ahead on the left seemed to be a good location. The rain had diminished to just a steady dizzle, so it was a good a time as ever.
I tucked under the trees and set up my small camp.
Being my first time coffeeneuring, I didn't know what I'd need, so I had brought a lot! Also, this was my first time using a moka pot. I am glad to report that it worked wonderfully too.
I was glad too that I had brought along my small folding table. Keeping things off the ground was very practical. I had also brought a blanket, but the grass was rather tall and the ground very rough, so I couldn't really use it.
After a couple of relaxing hours and a two pots of coffee, I was ready to leave. The rain had stopped, but some parts of the trail were a little muddy.
This was how I remembered the forest... thick and secluded.
The temperature had been mild, if not just a tad chilly, but after the rain ended, the humidity shot up along with the temprature. I was then riding in a muggy fog.
What fabulous veiws.
It was eerily quite too. The only sounds were from the rain, my tyres crunching over the gravel, and my voice as I openly narrated my thoughts.
This area too was once a thick forest. Trees lined both sides of the road, as you saw above. I remember first coming through here years ago and feeling 100 miles away from civilization.
Then amidst the bleak and dreary landscape, I heard the distant "toot" of a steam engine...
As I zoomed-in the lense on my camera, I could then see across to the far side of the reservoir where the Brecon Mountain Railroad was quietly chugging along. There too is another reminder of the past... of times gone by.
Just a few hundred yards ahead and I was back at the first entrance to the forest. I had completed my four mile loop.
It had been wonderfully quiet and surprising and a somewhat magical afternoon.
It had been wonderfully quiet and surprising and a somewhat magical afternoon.
I cycled back through Pontsticill and over the reservoir damn to where I joined the traffic-free section of the Taff Trail. From here I made my down to Merthyr Tydfil and Quakers Yard.
At Quakers Yard I joined NCN Route 47 and made my way back across Penalta Parc to Sirhowy Valley and then home.
At Quakers Yard I joined NCN Route 47 and made my way back across Penalta Parc to Sirhowy Valley and then home.
The rain had stopped completely by the time I reached the Trevithick Trail (NCN Route 477), so I paused briefly just above Quakers Yard for one last photo of the day (image above).
Summary: Taf Fechan Forest Coffeeneuring
As my first attempt at "coffeeneuring"; I would call this a huge success. Stopping during the middle of a ride and setting up my stove for coffee was an entirely new experience. I'm a big coffee drinker, so this was a a great combination of two things I love.
With all that said and done; the ride was easy, the day relaxing, and despite the rain persisting most all day — the temperature was rather mild which made the wet surprisingly managable. Two considerations for my next trip would be a book and a tarp.
With all that said and done; the ride was easy, the day relaxing, and despite the rain persisting most all day — the temperature was rather mild which made the wet surprisingly managable. Two considerations for my next trip would be a book and a tarp.
Overall, it was another wonderful day cycling in Wales and with a new type of adventure to include on my rides, I couldn't be happier.
Stay tuned and look for my next coffeeneuring adventure in 2024. Until then, I hope you enjoyed my report and thanks for reading!
Seeya down the road... Cheers! - cm
Stay tuned and look for my next coffeeneuring adventure in 2024. Until then, I hope you enjoyed my report and thanks for reading!
Seeya down the road... Cheers! - cm
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