This fabulous camping trip was made in September of 2014, but my original report was lost. Thankfully, whilst digging through my archive I found the skeletal remains which I've pieced together here today.
UPDATED!
- 2014 -
Overview: Penpont Campout
Date(s): September 4th & 5th, 2014
Total Distance: 105.4 mi. / 169.62 km
Total Elevation: + 5,707 / - 5,718 ft
Total Duration: 2 days
Total Distance: 105.4 mi. / 169.62 km
Total Elevation: + 5,707 / - 5,718 ft
Total Duration: 2 days
My wife discovered this small campsite online and we were immediately attracted to it. We thought to spend one night here as part of a larger cycling adventure, but our plans changed and unfortunately, we didn't make it.
However, the next year I went on a "solo-expedition" specifically to check it out and to be honest, this is one of the best campsites at which I have ever stayed. To start; it is simply gorgeous. The vibe is laid back and relaxed mixed with a down-home folksy feel. You'll not find any large caravans or motorhomes; perhaps a small group camping in an old VW bus — which also alludes to the vibes of the place.
Then there is the architecture — which is amazing. The grounds themselves are lush an expansive. I suggest staying two nights because you really need a day — just to wander and explore. There is much to see and discover. You will be surprised.
This was a short, but sweet overnight campout. I rode to Penpont on Friday and then came home on Saturday. The weather was outstanding; a sunny and warm September.
However, the next year I went on a "solo-expedition" specifically to check it out and to be honest, this is one of the best campsites at which I have ever stayed. To start; it is simply gorgeous. The vibe is laid back and relaxed mixed with a down-home folksy feel. You'll not find any large caravans or motorhomes; perhaps a small group camping in an old VW bus — which also alludes to the vibes of the place.
Then there is the architecture — which is amazing. The grounds themselves are lush an expansive. I suggest staying two nights because you really need a day — just to wander and explore. There is much to see and discover. You will be surprised.
This was a short, but sweet overnight campout. I rode to Penpont on Friday and then came home on Saturday. The weather was outstanding; a sunny and warm September.
2024 UPDATE: This is an updated version of a previously posted Ride Report. As part of my ongoing redesign of this website, each feature from "Rides to Remember" will be re-formatted to accomodate the new larger page layout. All of the photographs have been re-edited and where needed, the text has been re-edited for context and clarity.
Note: This report is divided into two parts to reflect the two days traveled. I should point out that I lost most of my original photos from the the first day, so I've placed a few images from later rides made along the same route. From Pontympoile Boat Basin to the town of Brecon little has changed and it will give you a feel for the day. Once at Penpont, my photos from the actual trip begin in earnest.
Table of Contents
DAY ONE | Oakdale to Penpont | 51.1 miles
Left home to cross valley along NCN Route 466 to Pontypool. Then a gentle ride along NCN Route 49 following the Monmouthshire & Brecon Canal for most of the day to the town of Brecon. Then a short climb up the A40 to Penpont.
DAY TWO | Penpont to Oakdale | 54.3 miles
Slow climb to Sennybridge, then south to Glyneath, Hirwaun, and Abercycnon along NCN Route(s) 46 & 478 (Cynon Trail) to briefly join NCN Route 8 (Taff Trail) to Quakers Yard. Final ride along NCN Route 47 to home.
SUMMARY | A Look Back and Future Plans
Reflecting back on the ride; my thoughts on returning and outlining a specific route, as well as a Ride Report Card for the day.
Left home to cross valley along NCN Route 466 to Pontypool. Then a gentle ride along NCN Route 49 following the Monmouthshire & Brecon Canal for most of the day to the town of Brecon. Then a short climb up the A40 to Penpont.
DAY TWO | Penpont to Oakdale | 54.3 miles
Slow climb to Sennybridge, then south to Glyneath, Hirwaun, and Abercycnon along NCN Route(s) 46 & 478 (Cynon Trail) to briefly join NCN Route 8 (Taff Trail) to Quakers Yard. Final ride along NCN Route 47 to home.
SUMMARY | A Look Back and Future Plans
Reflecting back on the ride; my thoughts on returning and outlining a specific route, as well as a Ride Report Card for the day.
DAY ONE
ON ROAD |
+ | NCN | 466 | 49 | 8 |  |
Oakdale to Penpont |
Date: September 4th, 2014
Distance: 51.1 mi. / 82.23 km
Elevation: +2,375 ft / -2,589 ft
Duration: 6 hours, 30 mins.
Distance: 51.1 mi. / 82.23 km
Elevation: +2,375 ft / -2,589 ft
Duration: 6 hours, 30 mins.
The first part of the trip was to simply get to the Monmouthshire & Brecon Canal (NCN Route 49). It's 13 miles west across the valley from Oakdale to the boat basin at Pontymoile. From there, I joined the canal path for another easy-peasy 13 miles to my first stop at the village of Gilwern.
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It's a straight-forward ride from our home in Oakdale to Crumlin where I then joined NCN Route 466 across the valley to Pontypool. The boat basin is just across town (via the lovely Pontypool Park) and voila!
I loaded my bike with more gear than I really needed for a single night, but I am prone to pack as if I'm never coming home. Of course, my Dawes rode like a champ! This is the type of adventure for which she was made.
Monmouthshire & Brecon Canal: A Mini Gallery - As I mentioned above, I have lost most of the original photographs I took along the canal during the first part of my trip, so I've put together a collection of images taken later. Not only do I ride the canal quite often, but it is perhaps my most photographed subject.
You will notice from the collection that the weather conditions vary, as well as the time of day and season. Regardless, it is always lovely and should give you a good idea of this special route.
The Monmouthshire & Brecon Canal is something everyone should explore, whether by foot, bicycle, or even by boat! Between Pontymoile Boat Basin and Brecon it is perfectly flat for nearly 30 miles. There are convenient rest stops for snacks, toilet breaks, as well as cafe & pubs nestled in quaint villages along the way.
When I was in undergraduate school, a photography professor once told me that whenever I stopped to take a photograph, I should turn around to see what's behind me. I try to follow that lesson because he was very right; sometimes the view is better from where you came (compare the images above and below).
At Gilwern I left the canal path and got onto Crickhowell Road (B4558). Gilwern is a good place to stop for a break as well. There are shops, pubs, and public restrooms.
This section of roadway between Gilwern and Brecon is not the Taff Trail, however, it is exceptionally nice and follows the trail quite closely for the next 10 miles. As the valley narrows, you'll find yourself cruising between the River Usk and the M&B Canal under a thick canopy of trees. The road is quite narrow in places, but the views are lovely.
You'll pass sections with lush fields along both sides of the road. The valley widens briefly as you pass Glanusk Park; home to the Greenman Festival.
You'll ride along gently as the road weaves back and forth under a thick canopy of green with the river far below to your right.
You'll pass the quaint villages of Crickhowell, Llangynidr, and Talybont-on-Usk as you slowly make your way north to Brecon.
But don't try this road during rush hour! Wait until mid-morning or early afternoon when traffic dies down. Then it is quiet and it becomes a real cycling treat.
After I passed Crickhowell, I was back right along side the canal (images above and below). I generally stay on the road through here because it is just so lovely (and a bit faster).
Crossing the River Usk on the B4558... looking south (above) toward the aquaduct that carries the M&B Canal over the River Usk and then looking north (below).
At Brynich Lock I re-joined the magnificent Monmouthshire & Brecon Canal path again (now called NCN Route 8 / Taff Trail). From here into Brecon the route is completely traffic-free for the next two miles.
Looking back offers great views as well (above). Whilst life along the canal looks pretty tranquil (below).
Reaching town brought me to the Brecon Basin and the northern terminus of the Monmouthshire & Brecon Canal. A great place to take a break and people watch.
Unfortunately, as I was leaving the canal basin I had a major blowout on my rear tyre. Not just a puncture in the tube, but the sidewall of the tyre itself split open. Urgh!
Fortunately, there is a great little bike shop on the edge of town; Biped Cycles, where I purchased a replacement tyre and continued on my adventure with very little delay.
Just a few hundred feet further and the medieval bridge over the River Usk leads me out of town and on the way to Penpont. It's just over 5 miles up the very busy A470 and unfortunately, I haven't many images to share of this section of my ride.
It's not just the climb that is breath-taking. This is the heart of the Brecon Beacons and pausing to take a few photos is a must.
Then I fell down the rabbit hole.
Penpont has been in the same family since being first built nearly 400 years ago. To this day it is managed by the same small family. This is their home. You simply have to visit the place to fully appreciate its unique character and charm. Let's go!
Heading onto the grounds, I met a man walking along the drive who instructed me to go past the house and across the bridge. I would then see signs on where to camp. Someone would be along to check on me shortly. That seems straight-forward enough.
Yup. This is where I camped. Not too shabby and with a great view overlooking the River Usk. I could see already that I wished I was staying more than one night.
The owner; David Hogg came by about an hour after I had set up my tent and we chatted for quite a while. He was very cordial and welcoming. He explained much about this fascinating property and their family history (check out: Penpont Our Story). The cost?... £10 for the night. Then I was left alone, secluded and completely on my own within this magical realm.
I set up my tent, unpacked my gear, and went exploring.
I set up my tent, unpacked my gear, and went exploring.
This door leads you down to the old rose garden where I camped (image above). Further up is an apple orchard with more campsites for larger groups and a few fire pits. (No caravans allowed!) It's simply wonderful.
Back across the bridge is the main house and many interesting buildings. Most importantly, I discovered the farm store and had I known, I wouldn't have shopped in Brecon. They have milk, eggs, some packaged cheese and meats, fresh vegetables (from their farm) and a wide assortment of jams and preserves... most anything you'd need to fix a dinner or breakfast.
There is much to see and explore. When camping, be sure to arrive before it gets dark or plan to wander around at some point before you leave the next morning.
Through the gates is the Organic Farm Shop. Here's a grainy shot from inside the store to give you a better idea of just how friggin' adorable this place is...
A wood worker has set up shop in one of the buildings. I think she/he was making chairs, but when I stuck my head in... no one was around, so I didn't take any picures of the shop. It looked fascinating though.
As you can see, no one was around. I saw plenty of signs of life, but I was on my own to explore. And to be fair, it was hard to take it all in. There is so much to see.
Hello pups! Are you all alone too? Where is everybody?
I believe this courtyard is used for wedding receptions. There's a kitchen and large banquet hall just through the door on the right (image above).
If you appreciate architectural vignettes; you will be in heaven. If you love just looking at old things laying around as they may have been for 100 years; you will be highly rewarded. There's more random stuff at which to look upon than you can imagine. It's brilliant.
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Of course, all of this fascinating architecture and history rests within the lush landscape of the Usk River Valley. It's magical. I can't wait to go back.
Aerial image courtesy of © Google Maps. Site labeling by bikewales.
DAY TWO
ON ROAD |
+ | NCN | 46 | 478 | 8 | 47 | |
Penpont to Oakdale |
Date: September 5th, 2014
Distance: 54.3 mi. / 87.38 km
Elevation: +3,332 ft / -3,129 ft
Duration: 8 hours, 30 mins.
Distance: 54.3 mi. / 87.38 km
Elevation: +3,332 ft / -3,129 ft
Duration: 8 hours, 30 mins.
All things come to an end and early the next morning I packed up for the ride home. It was another lovely day and I could have stayed a while longer, but I had a long ride ahead of me... as well as some significant climbing. Soon, I was heading up the A40 toward the town of Sennybridge where I was to begin my ride south over the Brecon Beacons National Park.
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But this place just won't let go of you. When I thought I had seen it all, I came upon two more buildings on the property. First, the oval house (above) and then this lovely little church (below). I don't know how missed these when I arrived?
By the way... I didn't see the Green Man maze!?! In fact, I didn't even know about the Green Man maze until I got home and was flying over Penpont in satellite view in Google Maps. Crazy.
I know that Penpont is going to be a tough act to follow and as I set out a thick fog slowly rolled in, perfectly matching my somber mood.
I climbed the A40 behind Cefn Llechid Mountain heading toward Sennybridge. The road is wide and traffic very light... the views speak for themselves. Thankfully too, the road is not too hilly which suits my lazy attitude perfectly.
There were several scenic overlooks along the road at which I stopped, naturally!
Signs of an old roadway sitting alongside the new, no longer needed except to remind us of a time before. How much of this landscape has changed? How much has stayed the same?
The landscape is so barren and vast and without any structures from which to place a scale; I truly feel like nothing more than an insect crawling up the roadway.
After about 13 miles I droppd over the ridge I had been climbing and began rolling down along side the Tawe River in the Swansea Valley toward Craig y Nos. This lovely little village is known for its very large Victorian Gothic country house (Craig y Nos Castle). It's a popular venue for weddings these days. In fact, they're having one as I pass.
Craig y Nos is also home to The National Showcaves for Wales. It looks interesting, but I didn't stop... I had seen enough. I stopped taking photos too. I was ready to be home.
A few miles further down the valley I turned onto the A4221 at Abercraf. I made my way southeast to Glyneath, climbed the monster hill up to Hirwaun and slowly pedaled my way home. It had been a long afternoon.
Summary - Penpont Campout
The weather turned out to be marvelous for both days. The roads were quiet and the hills not too strenuous. Overall, the route(s) were just what I was hoping they would be... scenic and memorable.
Despite my tyre blowing out in Brecon, what could have been a major problem turned into just a slight difficulty which I easily resolved at Biped Cycles. Thanks fellas!
Despite my tyre blowing out in Brecon, what could have been a major problem turned into just a slight difficulty which I easily resolved at Biped Cycles. Thanks fellas!
It had been a year since my last campout (which I failed to document!) and I am pleased to have made the extra effort to photograph and record the trip. This short adventure was beyond anything I had imagined. Penpont ROCKS! I will definately return.
DAY ONE
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DAY TWO
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If you made it this far... thank you! I hope you enjoyed my write-up and that you'll come back to visit my blog again soon.
Seeya down the road... Cheers! - cm
Seeya down the road... Cheers! - cm
