The Rhymney Valley from Bute Town to Pengam on NCN Route 468
Part 2 of my Eastern Valleys Loop continues from the Heads of the Valleys above Bute Town and travels south down the lush Rhymney Valley to end at the carpark at Bargoed Woodland Park in Pengam.
Overview: Eastern Valleys Loop - Part 2
Date: July 18, 2023
Distance: 52.5 mi. / 84.49 k
Elevation: +3,192 ft / -3,203 ft
Duration: 10 hrs, 29 mins.
Distance: 52.5 mi. / 84.49 k
Elevation: +3,192 ft / -3,203 ft
Duration: 10 hrs, 29 mins.
In this sceond installment, I will follow NCN Route 468 as it snakes its way down the Rhymney Valley to Pengam. I will pass through the towns of Rhymney, Abertysswg, and New Tredegar, ending just outside the entrance of Bargoed Woodland Parc.
However, this report doesn't complete the overall loop, so eventually I will have a third installment travelling from Pengam to Llanhilleth. My plan is to eventually have a comnpleted loop of which I can add to my Routes to Ride section. An in case you missed the first installment of this ride, you can view it here: Eastern Valleys Loop: Part 1
Shown below are two maps; the first one displays my overall ride for the day, whilst the second map shows the route of this specific report.
However, this report doesn't complete the overall loop, so eventually I will have a third installment travelling from Pengam to Llanhilleth. My plan is to eventually have a comnpleted loop of which I can add to my Routes to Ride section. An in case you missed the first installment of this ride, you can view it here: Eastern Valleys Loop: Part 1
Shown below are two maps; the first one displays my overall ride for the day, whilst the second map shows the route of this specific report.
Map 1 - Overall Ride
Map 2 - Part 2 and this report
ROUTE COLOUR KEY: | Traffic-free | Shared Use | On Road | Steep Hill |
NCN | 468 | ![]() |
+ | ON ROAD |
Bute Town to New Tredegar |
Distance: 5.3 mi. / 8.52 km
Elevation: +141 ft / -522 ft
Elevation: +141 ft / -522 ft
I start the next section of my ride at the Simnai Dirdro (Twisted Chimney) sculpture along the Heads of the Valley Road just above historic Bute Town. From here, I'll turn south into the Rhymney Valley and follow NCN Route 468 down to Pengam.
Often maligned and denegrated as a council's waste of money, the scuplture has lead a hard life in the short decade since it's construction. As an excellent example of Trompe-l'œil, most people were surprised and disappointed to discover that the sculpture was actually not made of brick, but of a polycarbonate painted to resemble brick.
Now damaged from high winds, the fate of this iconic artwork is uncertain as the council debates whether to spend the estimated cost of roughly £110,000 to have it repaired.
Now damaged from high winds, the fate of this iconic artwork is uncertain as the council debates whether to spend the estimated cost of roughly £110,000 to have it repaired.
The route is quite straight-forward following the signs heading south toward Rhymney and downhill on a shared-use path running alongside the rather busy A469.
This is a rather nice change after climbing up and across the Heads of the Valley, but it does encourage you to zip right past the historic village of Bute Town. This is what I did, hence the stock photo (image above). I want to go back for a look around and to take some better photos.
At the bottom of the hill (.6 mi.), the route turns left at the roundabout, into the woods and onto a traffic-free path.
It's good to get away from the traffic as the path is nicely secluded along the Rhymney River, but this too is short-lived as you soon climb up and into a small housing estate. You are now in the town of Rhymney.
The route then weaves through the estate making several turns by easy-to-follow signs. It's worth noting too, that Pete Seger wrote a popular (and tragic) song about this town; The Bells of Rhymney. You can hear it ☞ here!
Surprisingly too, there's a train station in Rhymney, but despite the uninspiring scenery here, the route changes dramatically once outside of town.
They've pollarded these trees (image above), but failed to cut the lower growth on the trunks which has left these rather "Dr. Suess-looking" trees behind. Weird?
At the end of the lane, the route turns abruptly into the woods and up a steep path (image above). At the top of this short climb, the route then returns to the road to begin weaving through housing estates again.
The exact route can be a bit tricky to follow as there are multiple footpaths winding through the estates and culdesacs seeming to lead nowhere, but if you look closely, you can usually spot the little blue signs and make your way.
However, it's important to remember that this is a very narrow valley. If you do miss a sign, don't worry, just keep going downhill. You'll not get lost and if you keep your eyes open, you're bound to spot a sign or cyclepath before too long.
And then you're back riding along and admiring the lovely scenery.
After Rhymney, the next village you'll pass through is Abertysswg. Blink and you'll miss it, but the signs will get you through to the next and amazing section.
The route then enters the wide, open area where the Mclaren Colliery once stood.
Now vacant, this part of the valley has an extensive history in coal mining — starting in the late 18th century and continuing until the pits finally closed in 1959.
Repurposed and scenic, the valley now shines as proof that nature can return to an area once scarred from the destructive forces of the Industrial Revolution.
After a little over a mile, the path re-enters the woods for a short distance before entering the town of New Tredegar.
As you exit the woods, just ignore the very misleading sign (image above), because only a short distance down the lane (and at the end of this row of houses), the path picks up again and leads you directly into to the center of town.
GO!... a little girl challenges me to a race and creates a classic Welsh image.
NCN | 468 | ![]() |
+ | ON ROAD |
New Tredegar to Pengam |
Distance: 4.4 mi. / 7.08 km
Elevation: +109 ft / -346 ft
Elevation: +109 ft / -346 ft
The path soon comes down to a very bustling part of town. There are shops, cafes, and pubs scattered about this narrow valley town. (There's also another train station up the hill to our right.) We've traveled just over five miles and it's a good place to stop for a break.
Meanwhile, the route continues south on the opposite side of the mini-roundabout as a shared-use path following the A4049.
A short distance up the road is the iconic Winding House. Now "moth-balled" due to poor council management and questionable decision making, this is home to the last functioning winding wheel used to lower and raise men as well as coal from deep within the mine. The museum and gallery also holds an extensive collection of memorabilia from the Rhymney and surrounding valleys. It was an interesting place to visit and it's a shame to see it closed.
As we make out way out of town, the route continues alongside the road for less than a mile before entering the woods to become completely traffic-free once again (image below).
And though the path is somewhat bumpy from tree roots pushing up the tarmac, the path is exceptionally lush and pretty at this time of year.
The path then passes through another gate to emerge on a small lane.
It's easy to miss with all the overgrowth, but not far from the lane is an old quarry off. I find these surprises somewhat daunting and standing at the base of such a large stone wall; the shear scale is unnerving. But it's super-cool too.
The lanes ends at a very narrow spot in the valley as the Railway viaduct over Factory Road can attest (image below). This also happens to be just above where Darran Valley branches off from Rhymney Valley.
Then once across the road, the route renters the woods as a traffic-free path (image above). Just a short distance further you encounter a junction with several other paths. As you can see, NCN Route 468 turns right to continue up to Bargoed (image below).
Once across the bridge, you can cycle a short distance, but the path soon becomes very steep and narrow as a series of switchbacks that lead up to a car park just outside Bargoed.
I suggest on the otherhand, to continue going straight onto the unpaved track (image below). It can be a bit muddy at times and there will be some loose gravel ahead, but in my opinion, this is a much easier and interesting route to follow.
I suggest on the otherhand, to continue going straight onto the unpaved track (image below). It can be a bit muddy at times and there will be some loose gravel ahead, but in my opinion, this is a much easier and interesting route to follow.
The path is narrow, but the hill is not terribly steep.
And then after a very short rocky section, the path pops you out by the main road (image below). You'll need to cross the road at a busy roundabout, but it's pretty straight-forward and then you'll link up again with the designated NCN Route 468.
Along with avoiding the awkward set of switchbacks, a busy car park, and a very busy roundabout by the equally busy bus station; the path I've outlined is shorter and easier to navigate (IMHO). Then we're back on the path entering Bargoed Woodland Parc.
Following a swift decent down to the river's edge, the route crosses the river and begins to follow closely along it's banks.
This section of the Rhymney River is outstanding. Take note of the overhanging trees and flowers. Herons are often stalking about the shallows and Kingfishers can be seen darting amoungst the low-hanging branches.
Then not surprisingly, the path climbs steeply away as it then begins to weave through an area of mixed woods and open fields.
And you guessed it... not long after that, the path again drops down to cross over the river, yet again.
This time however, you are treated to a spectacular view from one of the most unique bridges in South Wales. It's worthwhile to stop and look around because the river gorge here is quite lovely.
One last look at the bridge before exiting the park (image above).
And that concludes this installment of my Eastern Valleys Loop which ends in Pengam at the car park by the entrance to Bargoed Woodland Parc.
Summary: Eastern Valleys Loop - Part 2
I've got some more work to do for the final installment, which includes shooting photographs of some details I'd like to include for the final route, as well as shots from Pengam back to Crumlin. If you missed my first installemnt, be sure to check out: Eastern Valleys Loop - Part 1.
ROUTE COLOUR KEY: | Traffic-free | Shared Use | On Road | Steep Hill |
The report card on the right reflects my ride for the entire day. As you could see from the photos, it was a fabulous summer day with sunshine, blue skies, and temperatures holding around 20°. It was wonderful and I am thankful to have been out to see it all on my bicycle.
I will follow-up this report with Part 3 where I complete the route from Pengam back across to Crumlin.
I hope you've enjoyed my report(s) so far and will return for my final installment. As always, thanks for reading.
Seeya down the road... Cheers! - cm
I will follow-up this report with Part 3 where I complete the route from Pengam back across to Crumlin.
I hope you've enjoyed my report(s) so far and will return for my final installment. As always, thanks for reading.
Seeya down the road... Cheers! - cm
