The Taff Trail is the most widely known long-distance cycle route in the Southeast Valleys of Wales and despite this notoriety; it is not well-documented. In 2018 I set out to change this and now, nearly four years later, I am returning the project.
Overview: Upper Pontsticill & Taff Valley
Date: March 04, 2022
Distance: 63.1 miles / 101.55 kilometres
Elevation: + 3941 / - 3941 ft
Duration: 6 hours, 49 mins.
Distance: 63.1 miles / 101.55 kilometres
Elevation: + 3941 / - 3941 ft
Duration: 6 hours, 49 mins.
I first started this project back before the pandemic, back before my injury in 2019, and I'm excited to work on it again. It requires a great deal of time and multiple excursions, but that's part of what interests me. This is my second installment.
I have to admit being somewhat naive about making a fully photographed account of the Taff Trail in its entirety from Brecon to Cardiff Bay. Most of the difficulty has come from photographing everything I think is essential, as well as capturing interesting views and landscapes along a 55 mile route. It's a lot!
My first installment; Taff Trail: Stage 1, went well enough, but that was over four years ago. Then too, my camera died once I reached Pontsticill Recervoir. So, todays report focuses on where I left off, but also explores an alternate route around the reservoir.
I have to admit being somewhat naive about making a fully photographed account of the Taff Trail in its entirety from Brecon to Cardiff Bay. Most of the difficulty has come from photographing everything I think is essential, as well as capturing interesting views and landscapes along a 55 mile route. It's a lot!
My first installment; Taff Trail: Stage 1, went well enough, but that was over four years ago. Then too, my camera died once I reached Pontsticill Recervoir. So, todays report focuses on where I left off, but also explores an alternate route around the reservoir.
Dowlais Top and a detour...
It was a beautiful day as I made my way up to the Heads of the Valley and NCN Route 46. It had not been a year since I cycled to Pontsticill Reservoir, so I was quite surprised to discover the massive road works being undertaken at Dowlais.
I generally find road works uninteresting and though they looked quite extensive, I didn't photograph them, for obvous reasons. However, as I reached the pond above the main roundabout, I was not prepared for the detour I was forced to follow.
I generally find road works uninteresting and though they looked quite extensive, I didn't photograph them, for obvous reasons. However, as I reached the pond above the main roundabout, I was not prepared for the detour I was forced to follow.
An elaborate bridge had been constructed from the paved path over a small gulley which then just sort of dumped you onto a muddy track.
After about 100 yards of sticky mud, I was lead to the far side of the pond and despite my initial grumblings, I was rather pleased to find a nice little path of crushed stone. I had not pedaled along this edge of the pond before and the views are quite good.
From Dowlais, the route circles through the village of Pant before dropping quickly to the bottom of the valley where we get our first glimpse of the River Taff. About half way down the hill we also merge onto the Taff Trail (NCN Route 8).
Taf Fechen Forest & Pontsticill Reservoir
After that, I cycled up to Pontsticill Reservoir and across the dam. Then as I came around the other side of the reservoir, I was stunned by the the logging. As you can see from the photos, the reservoir was once hidden behind the trees.
The amount of clearcut is shocking to witness and I find the sound of heavy machinery rattling about in the distance quite disturbing. Urgh. This was not what I was expecting.
This is also a significant junction. The sign at the entrance reads; Taf Fechen Forest. The Taff Trail also heads up along the forestry road, but you could choose to go straight along the reservoir. Either way you end up at the same junction.
Today, I'm following the Taff Trail into the forest and returning along the reservoir in a short four-mile loop back to this point.
Today, I'm following the Taff Trail into the forest and returning along the reservoir in a short four-mile loop back to this point.
Looking back down toward the reservoir through a gap in the trees, I can see an encouraging sign that new trees have been planted.
In all probability, I won't live to see this area completely re-forested, but it's good to know that a future generation will.
In all probability, I won't live to see this area completely re-forested, but it's good to know that a future generation will.
Then about a mile up the road, the forest begins to thicken. I hear birds again. I wonder how far will the lumbermen cut this forest back?
The trail then narrows significantly as it veers into the woods and becomes paved. It continues down a steep incline to a very unique bridge with a surprising view.
High on the southern banks of this ridge two streams merge; the Nant Rhyd-ddu and the Nant Car Fach, creating a lovely little ravine with a series of small waterfalls.
This is a wonderful spot for lunch or even wild camping, (if I could get my bike across the stream). But today, I must move on. There is more to see.
NCN Route 8 (the Taff Trail) slowly climbs along the western side of the Reservoir and now the views are getting really nice.
The forestry road then quickly drops down to a junction just at the edge of the reservoir. The Taff Trail continues by turning left. But today, I am turning right onto a surprisingly long and flat road which closely follows the reservoir as I make my way back toward the entrance of the Taf Fechen Forest.
As I approached the southern end of the reservoir; the logging began again and as the scenery opened, so did the lighting for just a few minutes.
I fired off a few wide-angle shots and was pretty lucky. Sometimes ya just gotta be at the right place at the right time.
Then I've the same shot looking across the reservoir "with bike" or "with logging". Also of note; in the far distance is the Brecon Mountain Railway... another subject for my camera lense.
This next junction is critical and the signage is easy to misunderstand, but the Taff Trail actually turns left! There is ample space to have a sign at the junction, but the location of the one shown below makes it look as it the route continues straight (at least to me).
The village square of Pontsticill has seen better days and I'm a sucker for photographing old wrought-iron railings and gates.
Then I'm out on the dam again. It's been photographed thousands of times, but I always find myself stopping (and photographing) this massive sink hole. I find it both scary as hell and mesmerizing at the same time. It's also surprisingly loud.
Pontsticill Resrvoir to Merthyr Tydfil
On the far side of the damn the Taff Trail turns south. The road drops down quickly, but then once at the bottom of the hill, it veers left onto a slow climb up to where it then joins NCN Route 46 for a fast glide down into Merthyr Tydfil.
I won't use every photo that I've taken in the final piece. For one thing, they're not all that terribly interesting, but I think it's good to have every junction documented for reference when writing the directions.
It's worth noting too, that not every junction is clearly marked (below), but often you can just follow your instincts (in this case it's the river!)
It's worth noting too, that not every junction is clearly marked (below), but often you can just follow your instincts (in this case it's the river!)
After the fast ride down from Pontsticill Reservoir, it's quite a shock to discover this hill. It's not terribly steep, but the climb does carry on for a while.
There was a landslip along here last year. It looks like it went right across the road too. The River Taff is so small here. Remember this when we get down to Cardiff.
The road can be rather narrow in places, so be prepared to pull over to let cars pass. I discovered this lovely little waterfall when I was almost to the top.
Once at the top of the hill, there's a very sharp turn to your left which passes under a very narrow bridge. Be prepared to stop. Cars generally toot their horn and cyclists are commonly seen along this stretch, but show caution.
Then on the other side of the bridge, the roads turns back to the left where you'll immediately see the exit for the next section of the route. From here down to Merthyr Tydfil the ride is traffic-free and all downhill! Also of note: this is where NCN Route 46 merges in with the Taff Trail for the next 3.5 miles.
The clouds settled in as I began my slow descent. They've been cutting back the trees and brush from the sides of the path which doesn't look great now, but in a couple of months should appear much more natural. (Perhaps I should come back and shoot this section when the sun is out?)
It would be quite easy to just let the bike go and cruise down the path at 15 mph, but then you might miss some of the interesting details along the way... like this tunnel entrance!
About a mile down the path is the Pontsarn Viaduct. Built in 1862 for the Brecon and Merthyr Tydfil Railway, the viaduct spans 465 feet utilizing seven arches at a height of 92 feet.
But you can't really tell that from eye level, so I've included a couple of photos from a previous ride which follows Vaynor Road on the opposite side of the valley. These images give you a better perspective of the viaduct and the valley it crosses.
And of course you have to stop to look over the edge!
Looking south and down the valley toward Merthyr Tydfil (above) and then on the northern side of the viaduct looking down on the River Taff (below). The River Taff is starting to show a bit more personality.
At the end of the viaduct, Vaynor Road (from the opposite side of the valley) crosses over the valley and the cycle path too.
The old Pontsarn Hotel is slowly getting rebuilt. I'm interested to see what comes of this place. I bet it has wonderful views.
When I started this project, I decided that I was going to document everything — the good and the bad. Well, coming into Merthyr Tydfil, we have our first bad section.
This alley is extremely narrow and often strewn with broken glass. Plus, when you get to the end there's a steep drop onto a narrow lane. It's best to just get off your bike and walk the next couple of hundred yards.
This alley is extremely narrow and often strewn with broken glass. Plus, when you get to the end there's a steep drop onto a narrow lane. It's best to just get off your bike and walk the next couple of hundred yards.
Crossing the road isn't difficult, but the broken glass continues. There's a pub at the top of this ramp and the path is pretty sketchy for another 100 yards.
Soon enough you reach the famous Cefn-Coed Viaduct. The views are pretty spectacular, but cycling over the top doesn't give the full-impact of the viaduct's massive scale.
On the far end of the viaduct, the path narrows as it begins a series of rolling decents down toward Merthyr Tydfil town centre.
However, there's an important junction just at the beginning — NCN Route 46 diverges from the Taff Trail and turns back under the viaduct providing us with a better view of it's scale.
However, there's an important junction just at the beginning — NCN Route 46 diverges from the Taff Trail and turns back under the viaduct providing us with a better view of it's scale.
On the far side of the valley we get a glimpse of the imposing Cyfartha Castle (not really a castle at all) built by the iron master; William Crawshay II. I'll not go into the details about the Crawshays here, but they were not well-loved.
I reached the bottom of the hill and Cyfartha Iron Works. They're doing some sort of construction now, so I took this as my stopping point for the day. I need to continue on into the town centre of Methyr Tydfil, but I'll leave that for another day.
Meanwhile, I'll leave you with this image from over by the Merthyr skatepark.
Summary - Upper Pontsticill & Taff Valley
I had hoped that this ride would produce enough images for me to complete Stage 1 of my Taff Trail project. However, upon review, I I want to go back and re-shoot some sections under better weather conditions.
I was pretty knackered by the time I reached Cycfartha Iron Works. I cycled home along the Trevethic Trail and shot a few last photos — but that's for another project!
I was pretty knackered by the time I reached Cycfartha Iron Works. I cycled home along the Trevethic Trail and shot a few last photos — but that's for another project!
It's interesting to go back and look at my first set of images and the presentation I began. (see: Taff Trail: Stage 1). These two layouts are wildly differing and I'll need to reconcile them. However, I've taken a lot of notes and it's a decent re-start for the project.
Lastly, you might notice that I've a new Ride Report Card on the right. It's just a screen capture from the Ride w/ GPS website and makes my coding much simpler now. Plus, you can click the graphic to visit the website!
If you made it this far, thanks for reading!
Seeya down the road... Cheers! - cm
Lastly, you might notice that I've a new Ride Report Card on the right. It's just a screen capture from the Ride w/ GPS website and makes my coding much simpler now. Plus, you can click the graphic to visit the website!
If you made it this far, thanks for reading!
Seeya down the road... Cheers! - cm
 |
