Wye Valley Greenway v.2

Not only is this one of my favourite routes, it's also my most cycled century ride. However, for this ride I cycled the route counter-clockwise. Additionally, I've included the newly opened Wye Valley Greenway and Tidenham Tunnel.
Overview: Wye Valley Greenway v.2
Date: May 30, 2022
Distance: 103.3 miles / 166.25 kilometres
Elevation: + 5501 / - 5502 ft
Duration: 13 hours, 34 mins.
The main focus of this ride, is that I have chosen to cycle this route counter-clockwise from my normal direction. That is; I first cycled south to Newport, then east to Chepstow, turning north to Monmouth, where I finally turned south-west back to Usk, Pontypool, and then home. Also of note; this rides includes several different sections from the clockwise direction, but I'll explain more of that at the specific locations.

I should add that I have difficulty documenting rides at lengths of 100 miles or more. I simply don't have enough time in a single day to photograph everything. However, I generally make notes of the places I miss and plan my return to specifically capture those areas. Also, sections I visit frequently or that I've previously photographed, often get omitted.

This is the case with this report because getting to the Wye Valley is a 45 mile adventure on its own. I've left out several major sections in order to focus on the Wye Valley Greenway (between Chepstow and Tintern Abbey). There are lengthy parts missing from the start and nothing after Monmouth. There are; however, a few random shots I took along my way which I've included simply because I found them interesting and too, it was a gorgeous day.
Newport to Chepstow & Sedbury
I have cycled from our home in Oakdale down to Newport so many times that I have just stopped taking photos of the route. It's a brilliant 7 mile ride over the mountain and down the Ebbw Valley to Cwmcarn where I then hop on NCN Route 47 along the Crumlin Arm of the M&B Canal. Then I follow this traffic-free path for another 11 miles to Newport. It's fabulous. We're lucky to have it, but I've documented it elsewhere.

However, as you're coming into Newport there are a series of junctions to navigate as the path first crosses over the A4051 and then under the A4042. It is this area that is partularly tricky which I've chosen to highlight below.
First and foremost, I have to give Newport credit for cleaning up this area. Most every surface was once covered in nonsensical graffiti, whilst the pavement was littered with broken glass and piles of refuse. It was a popular spot for kids drinking cheap beer and smoking weed. Walking your bike was often required and along with the boisterous youths, it felt perilous.

My only complaint, and it's minor — is that the route signage needs to be improved. If you're coming into town (from 14 Locks, as I am); it's non-existant.

Case in point; NCN Route 88 veers off to the left toward Caerleon (image above) and there are no signs indicating this.
Just look at these fabulous pylons!
I've included a photo from a previous report (image below) showing the excellent signage visable as you are coming from Newport toward 14 Locks and the clear indication of NCN Routes; 47, (to 49), and 88.

It would be helpful to have similar signage coming from the other direction. Currently, these signs are hidden behind the column and the chances are quite high that you'd never spot them. Also note, that this is before the painting of the roadway supports.
But I digress. Let's move on to the Transporter Bridge!
After some coffee and a small snack by Newport's First World War Memorial, I move onto NCN Route 4 heading east toward Chepstow.

I don't normally cycle this section of the route because heading out of Newport you travel through a heavy industrial area which is very busy with many lorries along the roadway. Additionally, the shared-use path is often strewn with broken glass. Also, see the first image below. It's not very nice cycling.
However, once you've left the shared-use roadway and traveled a few yards into the woods, the route improves significantly.
This section connects Corporation Road with Nash Road and is about a mile long. You exit back onto the roadway as you reach Pye Corner along the Gwent Levels.
Following NCN Route 4 across the Gwent Levels is a lovely ride. Just as the name suggests — it is very flat and the roads are relatively quiet. There are; however, several alternate small roads, which deviate from the direct route and weave around through the fields that I find worth the small effort. And despite adding to the overall distance; they make for an exceptionally pleasant ride.
I leave NCN Route 4 to cycle on Chapel Road which leads to the communities of Goldcliff and Whitson. The diversion adds an extra three miles to the journey, but I cannot help myself. It's idyllic cycling.
Chapel Road follows right along Chapel Reen. Swans are often seen nesting in the still waters of the many reens that cut through the levels. I stop, taking note to look back from where I came and I spot the swans mate, perhaps?
From Goldcliff and Whitson there is a significant section missing from this report; specifically as I cycled through Redwick, Undy, and Caldicot. I have photographed this section several times previously; however, I was coming from the opposite direction.
Note: To view more, see my galleries Chepstow to Caldicot and Calidcot to Newport.
My report picks up again just outside the village of Crick, nearly ten miles further along NCN Route 4 heading to Chepstow.
And I just love this section of the route.
Sometimes I stop to take a photo (above) and then I move just a few feet further to where I find a better shot (below). And those clouds are looking a bit ominous.
The humidty is rising and the smell of freshly cut hay and wild garlic is intoxicating.
The wind is picking up and I sense that it's going to rain at any moment.
I follow NCN Route 4 as it zig-zags its way through picturesque farms and exceptionally quiet lanes for three miles. There are a few smallish hills, but for the most part it just rolls along.
Hello girl.
Just before St. Pierre's Wood, I veer off from the designated cycle route toward the village of Shirenewton and more significantly, toward the clouds.
This is a new section I'm exploring, but before I got too far along, the rain started.
I stopped to put on my rain gear underneath the trees by the entrance to St. Peirre Wood. I hadn't known of this place until today and it looks lovely.

However, as the weather worsened, I felt complelled to keep moving and unfortuantely, because of the rain — I didn't document the next nine miles.
Once I reached Shirenewton, I then dropped down onto the B4235. This road can be busy, but it is also wide and sweeping with plenty of room for cars to pass. Additionally, it's mostly all downhill into Chepstow and when you've time to relax, it offers some lovely views.

But for me today; I had to hunker down and pedal on without stopping — through a heavy rainstorm, all the way to Chepstow and the Wye Valley Greenway at Sedbury. I can assure you too, that by the time I arrived — I was a soggy dog.
Sedbury to Tintern
Surprisingly, as I crossed the Wye River into England, the skies began to clear and as I rode up the hill into Sedbury, you could hardly tell it had rained. The greenway entrance at Wyedean School is well-marked and a pleasant reward.
This section is pretty short, but nice enough. I don't think it really adds anything to the overall ride. It snakes around behind the school to connect with Sedbury Lane, which if you look at my map closely, you'll see I had some difficulty finding.
However, once on Sebury Lane, it's another short ride along a quiet road to the next traffic-free section of the greenway.
Personally, I would consider this as the primary entrance to the Wye Valley Greenway (photo above) because you can get here from several different directions and from here the route travels unbroken for 4.2 miles to Tintern.
Quite simply, this route is wonderful. From the very start, the re-purposed rail line offers wonderful views across the Gwent Levels to the Severn River and estuary. Then as you move further inland, the path slowly climbs high above the Wye River, offering panoramic views across the lush Wye Valley floor.
Wye Valley Railway
The Wye Valley Railway was authorised by Act of Parliament on the 10th of August in 1866 to support the local and industrial economy found along the Wye River. The main line was planned to run from a junction with the existing CMU&PR Railway at Wyesham (near Monmouth) to the Wye Valley Junction at Chepstow.

Construction began in 1874, but was delayed due to the complexities of building the Tidenham Tunnel located at the southern end of the route. Once the tunnel was completed, the formal opening of the line took place in the fall of 1876 — over ten years from when it was first proposed.
photo courtesy of Wye Valley Greenway
Prior to the railway, moving freight from industries found along the Wye Valley required travel over rough roads crossing many hills and valleys for nearly 43 miles to reach either Monmouth or Chepstow. By opening a rail line, the distance between these two important trade towns was reduced to 15 miles and the journey time significantly reduced to just two hours.
photo courtesy of Exploring Mid-Wales
At the time of the rail line's construction, it was hoped that Chepstow would have a chance at competing in the iron and copper industries which were flurishing at the nearby sea ports in Cardiff, Newport and Swansea. However, by the time the railway was fully operational, many of the small industries in the Wye Valley were in decline.
photo courtesy Bill Potter/KRM
Yet as hauling freight slowly diminshed in importance, the rail line was soon supporting a bustling passenger service fueled by a growing tourist industry as visitors flocked to the scenic beauty found along the lower Wye Valley.
photo courtesy of Wye Valley Greenway
The railway began an aggressive advertising campaign focusing on the beauty of the Wye Valley and campaigns proved to be highly successful. For nearly 50 years, tourism and tourists provided the majority proportion of the line's income. Holiday excursions left from Gloucester, Cheltenham, and as far away as Cardiff for visitors to tour the Wye Valley and the popular; Tintern Abbey at Tintern. There was even an enhanced passenger service during the summer months to accomodate the increased daily traffic.
photo courtesy of Wye Valley Greenway
However, by the 1940's the rail line began loosing money. Diesel engines were introduced in an effort to save costs, but the competition from road transport increasingly undercut the line's income. After WWII, the railways were nationalised in an attempt to improve their viability, but it was too late.

As the roads improved, goods were more often transported by motor lorries and tourists started taking smaller omnibuses, which ran more frequently. Both used less fuel, were cheaper to operate, and the competition severely reduced the rail line's income.

By 1959, the Wye Valley rail line was losing £20,000 annually on its passenger service and the decision was made to end running all passenger trains. Sadly, the last passenger train on the Wye Valley left out of Monmouth heading down to Chepstow on the 4th of January, 1959.
Light freight traffic continued to run between Monmouth and Chepstow for a few years, but that too was unsustainable and it ceased operating on the 6th of January, 1964. All that was left were a few trains servicing Tintern Quarry, but when the quarry closed that finally ended it all and on the 29th of March, 1990 — the last train ran down the Wye Valley.
For more information, see: Wye Valley Railway, A History of the Wye Valley Railway, Tidenham Tunnel, and Stella's Books.
About a mile up, the path crosses over the B4228 and enters the woods. This is the Wye Valley Area of Natural Beauty. From here the route runs under a thick canopy of trees for roughly three miles more to Tintern.
They've done a wonderful job of preserving and repurposing some of the engineering works along the way. These artifacts now pay tribute to the days of railroading whilst helping to retain the historical character.
Then as you come around a slight bend in the path, you discover the highlight of the route; Tidenham Tunnel.
The tunnel runs for 1088 metres (0.67 mile) and is over 300 feet below ground at its deepest point. Parts of the tunnel are brick lined while other parts remain bare rock.

The tunnel is open only during daylight hours between the 1st of April until 30th of September each year. The main reason for this is to protect the winter hibernation home for the Lesser Horseshoe bats that roost inside alcoves throughout the tunnel.
Note: It is crucial that you check the Tidenham Tunnel website before visiting. Due to it's delicate ecological state and the seasonal time frames, the opening times can change.
The entire length of the tunnel path is illuminated by low-level lights along one side. However, it is still very dark and bike lights or torches are not allowed. (I turned the exposure on my camera wide open to capture what I could of the available light.)
Also, I found it shocking how much the temperature drops as you make your way through the tunnel. Knowing this from my previous ride, I stopped to put on my jacket before entering. (And it's very damp.)
Then after 10 minutes or so and just over .6 mile(s), you exit the tunnel and the path resumes under a thick canopy of trees.
I would imagine that the rail line looked quite different when the trains ran through here. The valley would have been open and the hillsides exposed. All of the trees and thick underbrush we see today is from over 50 years of abandonment. I wonder what this will look like in another 50 years?
Just over halfway there are some lovely trail markers and I've only two miles to Tintern. However, from here the path changes character as it now becomes significantly rougher and much more narrow in places.
This is what I love... exploring and the curiosity of seeing the unknown.
And then off to the side, hidden behind the undergrowth, a small path lead to another tunnel entrance. This is the southern entrance to the Tintern Tunnel. What was a surprise! I completely missed this last year when I first cycled down from Tintern.
And it's a puzzling thought I think of often; seeing the same place from another direction presents a completely different view. As I get older, I find myself looking back more and more. Why is that? When did this come about?
But that is enough of my silly pontificating... soon, through the trees to my left, a bit of ancient architecture appears across the river.
I quote; "Tintern Abbey is a national icon — still standing in roofless splendour on the banks of the River Wye nearly 500 years since its tragic fall from grace."
As I make my way across the Wireworks Bridge, I can easily see why this bridge is now closed for major repairs.
It is a lovely day.
Summary - Wye Valley Greenway v.2
I enjoyed cycling this route counter-clockwise. The route offers some interesting features, especially from Crick to Chepstow and then up the Wye Valley Greenway.

Leaving Tintern, I made my way up the valley to Monmouth and then turned west heading first to Raglan and then Usk. From there, I climbed up to Goytre where I got on the M&B Canal to Pontypool.

My only complaint with cycling this route, in this direction, is that the ride home from Pontypool back to Oakdale is a fairly tough way to end a very long day. (In the future, I might look for a different route home from Tintern.)
It was surprsingly late in the afternoon by the time I reached Tintern and I stopped taking photos. At that point, I still had over 50 miles yet to cycle.

It was nearing 9:00pm when I finally I stumbled through our back gate. I had cycled a total of 103.3 miles and climbed over 5,500 feet. I spent over 13 hours out on the road. It was a good day.

I hope you enjoyed reading about my little adventure. Thank you for spending your time with me, here at Bike Wales.

Seeya down the road... Cheers! - cm
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