Carreg Tegernacus

My original plan to meet the Green Ladies for a group ride was canceled; so I rolled on for a bit of a wander and then without warning the most amazing cycling adventure unfolded. This day became one of those wonderfully surprising epic rides.
UPDATED!
Overview: Carreg Tegernacus
Date: Dec 5, 2013
Distance: 42.9 mi / 69.04 km
Elevation: + 2,998 ft / -2,978 ft
Duration: 7 hours : 15 mins.
The weather report was dire; heavy wind and rain with temperatures hovering around 5°c. It was completely understandable that the ladies didn't care for cycling on this day. I, on the otherhand, still felt the desire.

I set off down the road through Blackwood and Pontyllanfraith along the High Street. It's a mindless ride I've made hundreds of times which I thought I could easily cycle whilst contemplating where to go next.

At Maesycwymmer I dropped under the viaduct and snaked my way north through Fleur de Lis and Pengam to where I then joined NCN Route 468 and continued cycling north through the wildlife park to Bargoed.
2023 UPDATE: This is an updated version of a previously posted Ride Report. As part of my ongoing redesign of this website, each feature from "Rides to Remember" will be re-formatted to accomodate the new larger page layout. All of the photographs have been re-edited and when needed, the text has been re-edited for context and clarity.
Note: The blue line in map above indicates the primary focus of this report.
Surprisingly and without much forethought, I was going somewhere. From Bargoed I cycled up the Darran Valley on NCN Route 469, past Deri, Parc Cwm Darren, and into the sleepy little village of Fochriw. I turned right on the High Street and climbed further up the hill, passing the community centre and primary school, up toward the top of the ridge where I could then drop down into the adjacent Rhymney Valley.
A Discovery...
However, just as I was nearing the crest of this hill, I noticed a very small road off to my right which lead further up the ridge (photo below). I thought to myself; "what's up there?" and with that simple question, I turned my bicycle.

The blue line in the map above indicates the primary focus of this report. I have since come to understand that this ridge is named: Cefn Brithdir.
The wind was howling across the moors and despite the steep incline, I had no difficulty climbing up onto the ridge... as if the wind encouraged me — guiding me up the hill. In almost an instant, I was near the summit where I paused to look back (photo below).

Far in the distance sat sleepy little Fochriw. I had been there only moments ago and now it looked so far away?!?
Off to my right was the village of Pontlottyn nestled in the Rhymney Valley. Looking north, Bannau Brycheiniog stretched wide across the horizon.
Heading south along the ridge, a few scattered farmhouses down in the valley and a lone telephone tower were the only signs of civilisation.
The weather continued to howl as I stood to take a photo and admire the desolate landscape.
The wind, a lonely road, and a silly romantic on his bicycle.
As I continued south, barbed-wire fences and stone walls began to appear. Then just as I thought I was moving back into the present day, I stumbled across this stone marker.
Markers like this one are not uncommon in the area. A Roman road runs along the nearby ridge from Gelligaer to Brecon and numerous remains dating as far back as the Bronze Age can be found along that hillside (see: Gelligaer Common - an architectural surpise).

However, this smaller ridge rises just east of the Darran Valley and runs only a short distance between Aberbargoed and Fochriw. I had not cycled this road before, so Cefn Brithdir came as quite a surprise.
Carreg Tegernacus
As the marker reads: "In this field there once stood a roughly cut massive slab of stone. On its surface was a Latin inscription. It has been suggested that the Stone dates to the early seventh century A.D., however it may be much older. In 1922 the Stone was removed to the national Museum of Wales and its location marked by the inscribed concrete pillar you see today." (image below)
Upon my return, I began researching into this stone. I soon found a newspaper article from The Weekly Mail dated 22nd September 1906; Cefn Brithdir Stone. The image(s) below show the original stone in its original position.
 
At the time, historians differed on the translation of the inscription; however, the newspaper published an English translation by William Owen of Fon, from his travels through the area on January 12th, 1822 as; "Saint Tydfil, Princess and Martyr, was sent to him who was in authority to set matters in order, and was destroyed, and immediately her faithful soul ascended up to Heaven, and here'her body lies.".

Nearly 200 years later, today the accepted translation is much different and simply reads;

"TEGERNACUS FILIUS MARTI HIC IACI"
Translation: "Tegernacus, son of Marti(us), lies here"

There is no doubt that this stone was erected to the memory of Tegernacus, but why is uncertain. Some presume he died at the hands of enemies to the Christian religion, but that is conjecture at best.

The actual stone itself now stands on display in St. Fagan's National Museum of History, Cardiff (below).
Who was Tegernacus? Aside from being listed as one of the grandchildren of Brychan Brycheiniog, there's not much information to be found. From (Archaeologia Cambrensis - Vol III 1862), it is stated that he was the son of Mar/Marius(Martius) and grandson of Gwynllyw & Gwladys (daughter of Brychan).
There is also speculation that Tegenacus could be Teyrnog who was thought to be a native of Gwent, (or Venta Silurum), and was perhaps the same person whose name appears on a stone marker embedded in a buttress at St Michael's Church in the community of Llanfihangel Cwmdu (image below).
© TimPrevett
The original location of this stone is unknown, but it's close proximity to Gelligaer is significant because the translation reads:

""CATACUS HIC IACIT FILIUS TEGERNACUS"
Translation: "Here lies Cattoc son of Teyrnoc"
So now we have the son of Tegernacus (or Teyrnog / Teyrnoc) which leads us to a third location relating to Tegernacus just across the valley on the adjacent hillside.

Capel Gwladys - Located in the open moorland of Gelligaer Common, southwest of the Tegernacus Stone and approximately 3 km NNW of Gelligaer sits the remains of a chapel. The outline of the chapel is believed to have consisted of a nave, chancel, and a western tower; however, the original foundations have been replaced by a low consolidated wall of coursed slabs measuring 12.75m long x 5.9m wide.

During excavations in 1906, a slab with an incised ring-cross was discovered which is now located in the porch of Gelligaer parish church. A replacement for the original modern cross has been erected and inscribed with "Capel Gwladys circa 450 AD".
© Michael Benjamin
What is the significance of this chapel? Looking back at the family tree (above), you will recall that Gwladys is listed as the grandmother of Tegernacus. The dates of both the Tegernacus Stone and the stone slab found at Capel Gwladys coincide with 5th - 7th centuries AD.

Most importantly, all of this can be directly connected to the Roman Fort at Gelligaer, which sits due south of all the locations discussed above. And that my friends will be the next part of this historical journey.
References:
Is this what the wind compelled me to see? High on this hill overlooking South Wales... it's a stunning view.
I wandered some... just looking around, when slowly the clouds started to part and the sun began to stream through.
It felt magical.
Then, as I was walking back across the field, I was was surprised to see yet another marker glowing in the distant sunlight (below left). I got back on my bike and continued down the road...
And then I discovered this fascinating place...
Capel y Brithdir
Heading north out of Bargoed along Factory Road/A469, up the very steep hill toward the village of Brithdir, there is small lane on the left side, easily missed, and un-named. The lane is exceptionally narrow and slowly winds its way to the very ridge of Cefn-y-Brithdir.
Located 1.5 mi. up this mountain lane, a rather non-descript church once stood; Capel y Brithdir (below). I could find little about the church that once stood here, yet it is thought to have dated back to the medieval period. Now, all that exists is a rectangular stone wall which once surrounded the church and its cemetary.
Owner: Paul Waites
The church itself, burned down sometime during the 1950's (estimated) and was later demolished in 1960. This is when the story gets interesting.
"During demolition, a cross incised slab of probable 10th-11th century date was found built into its walling. (The slab is now in St Gwladys's Church, Bargoed). The demolished remains of the church were heaped within the lower part of its walls to form a platform-like monument."
A concrete replica of the Celtic stone cross now stands in the centre of the platform where the church once stood (below). The original stone is now in St Gwladys's Church, Bargoed.
This raised platform built within the foundations of the pre-existing church is now a scheduled monmument.
"The scheduled area comprises the rectangular platform but not the surrounding churchyard (which contains recent graves)." - Ancient Monuments.
The cemetery hasn't been taken care of in ±70 years and only a few headstones are now readable. Sadly too, the church history and the only copy of the burial records were destroyed when the chapel burnt down.
Owner: Paul Waites
Remaining questions; Was the church abandoned at the time of the fire? (Could this be the reason why it wasn't rebuilt?) Did anyone know the Celtic Cross was embedded in the wall prior to the church fire and/or demonlition? And what about the local rumour that the church was set on fire by devil worshippers? And lastly... what about the ghost story of the little girl with the missing leg?

These mysteries intrigue me.
References:
Just to be clear, this monument marks two things. First, an ancient church dating back to the medieval period once stood here; Capel y Brithdir, and secondly, a Celtic Stone Cross was discovered when the church was demolished.
As I was standing there, contemplating the mysteries which surrounded me, the sky began to change again as the clouds parted and the light shone through...
The entire hillside began to glow and a chill went down my back. I sensed that it was a very special moment to be standing in this very special place.
And then, just as suddenly, the clouds merged and the sky resummed its dull-grey cast again.
It seemed that somehow I had been thanked for taking the time to visit this these monuments. It was unlike anything I have ever felt.
I rode back down the mountain thinking that when I got home I would investigate these places to better appreciate their significance. Meanwhile, I felt strangley honoured to have discovered these monmuments and to this day, I hold this unusual landscape with great respect.
Summary - Carreg Tegernacus
It was a phenomenal ride. Short, but full of intrigue and mystery and I loved it. Once home, I began looking for answers to the many questions that had formed from my discoveries. I was thrilled to know more.
Who was this man Tegernacus? What is his story? But sadly, as I have come to realise, there is not much information to be found. And that in itself, is a large part of my attraction to Wales — it is mysterious.
And then there is the stone marker where the church once stood... more mysteries without much information. It's fascinating. Why am I drawn to these places?
Note: The blue line in map above indicates the primary focus of this report.
As I indicated at the start, this is an update of a report I made nearly 10 years ago. Many of the details I have documented here were not noted on my previous report. The maps were manually drawn with notes written in a small notebook.

About the update: The original text has been gently massaged to better reflect my thoughts, whilst all of the images have been re-edited (cropped, exposure adjusted, and sharpened). It should be noted too, that most of the original images have been lost.rwgps-embeds.com/embeds

I hope you've enjoyed my re-telling of this wonderful adventure. Thanks for visiting.

Cheers! - muse kidd 
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