Bannau Brycheiniog by Cycle | Day Three
Carreg Cennen Castle
I awoke to the sounds of birds chirping and radiant blue skies. I climbed out of my tent, stretched my arms and legs gazing up at the mighty Carreg Cennen Castle. It was going to be a glorious day. I could just feel it.
DAY THREE
WALKING
  Carreg Cennen Castle
Date: Wednesday, June 21, 2023
Distance: 3.0 mi. / 4.82 km
Elevation: +439 ft / -431 ft
Duration: roughly 6 hours
The next morning the campsite was still empty and quiet. Having no need to pack my gear, I could take my time making breakfast and contemplate the day. No cycling for me today. I was going to have a day off and I needed it. I planned to simply hike from the campsite up to the castle, wander around exploring, take some photos and wander back. And I had all day.
The camp host stopped by to say hello and tell me that it was be a lovely day as there was no rain in the forecast. And it looked fantastic! (as shown below in the view I had with my breakfast...)
If you notice below you'll see that I tied out my guylines. I was not going to wake up with water under my tent again!
I have a traditional breakfast I often make whilst camping; scrambled eggs with cheddar cheese and grilled sausage. I also have some orange juice followed by a couple of cups of good strong coffee to get me properly fueled for the day.
I often take two campstoves. It's completely unnecessary, but very convenient because one can boil water quickly (for my coffee to get started), whilst the other can fry my eggs & sausage slowly.

Knowing that I'd be out for the day, I also made a flask of coffee to take with me on the hike. Fortunately for me as well, my lovely wife made me a tasty sandwich to take with me before I left home.
With my hip bag packed and camera strapped over my shoulder, I set off to explore the castle and surrounding countryside by foot.
As the name suggests, Trapp Fishery is mostly visited by folks wanting to fish. There's a small man-made lake stocked with bream and carp, several small yurts and a well-appointed cabin, as well as the small campground where I'm pitched.

It's a charming place actually, its not the well-manicured campsite you often find with many of the larger campervan sites, but it has a sort of "old school" vibe.
I poked around the lake a bit, stuck my nose in the yurt — as the place was empty except for myself, and then made my way to the far side of the property where I found the footpath leading north toward the castle.
Immediately, the path dropped down a steep hill and the woods became quite thick. The trail was clearly marked and easy to follow, but it didn't appear to have been used much this season.
As I made my way, I could hear the trickle of a small stream burried deep in the underbrush off to my right. I could almost taste the smell of the morning damp mixed with the fresh scent from the trees, ferns and mosses.
By this point my shoes were sopping wet and after several hundred feet, the path eventually crossed the stream by an old washed-out footbridge. On the opposite side of the stream, the path began a steep climb.
Looking back down the path (image above), the depth of the gorge was rather surprising. Then it was just a short bit further to the edge of the woods where I came to a clearing and towering ahead of me, high on the hill in the distance was the castle.
I can honestly say it sent chills down my back and I had goosebumps on my arms. I couldn't help but imagine what the medeival solider's thought when they first saw this view...
The walk dipped and rolled through a series of small paddocks inter-connected by rickety styles, the castle disappearing and reappearing over the hillside as I continued.
The morning was bright and glorious. The temperature was cool, but warming. Looking back over the valley as I climbed, I couldn't help but feel that this was a special day.
Nearby cows were mooing along with their bells clanking flatly and I could hear sheep bleating from far across the fields. A few small brown rabbits hopped about nervously in the tall grass, ears twitching, looking back at me guardedly.
Nearing the top I turned left along a hedgerow and began making my toward the farm and visitors centre. The castle towered above my right, menacing in its silouette against the sky.
I soon reached the Carreg Cennan Farm. Old agricultural equipement decorated the outside of most all of the assorted buildings, fascinating in their decay. The stables and cart house have been restored and now house the visitors centre & tea room. A new oak barn built in the mid-90's provides a rustic venue for weddings, ceremonies, and conferences.

The farm itself is still a working farm with longhorn cattle, Welsh mountain sheep, and an assortment of horses. Dogs lumbered about, mildly interested in the early morning visitor, accepting attention when offered. I spotted a yellow cat darting behind a painted milkcan. Another stretched lazily along a stone wall, blinking, sleepy-eyed, unbothered.

Wagon wheels taller than a small child leaned against the outside walls of an 11th century longhouse nestled in the centre of the old farmyard which now acts as a sort of heritage museum as it offers an extensive display of agricultural artefacts from all over the UK.
I poked my head around the gift shop that had just opened (9:30am). The clerks were very cheerful and welcoming, but I was sadly disappointed to find the Cadw book on the castle was sold out. I paid my admission (£7) and started up the hill to the main event.
It was a quiet Wednesday morning and I had the place to myself.
The path up to the castle zig-zags its way from the northern side to reach a second gatehouse standing along the eastern edge. It wouldn't be an easy climb from that direction, but I guess they have to be sure to keep folks from trying.

Meanwhile, turning west; the castle is an imposing sight with still more climbing to be made — and over some very rugged ground, no less!
Carreg Cennen Castle
Carreg Cennan Castle sits atop a massive limestone block jutting up and above the surrounding countryside. Unlike the rolling sandstone hillsides which form most of the area, this unusual stone protuberance was most likely created by geological faults and folds during the Caledonian orogeny, roughly 490–390 million years ago.

Humans have lived on this rocky outcrop as far back as the last Ice Age. There are nine known caves within the rock formation, the most significant of which is under the castle itself. Accessable via a vaulted passage, human remains were found in this cave dating back to the Upper Palaeolithic period.
Photo courtesy of Visit Wales
Additionally, Roman coins from the 1st & 2nd century, together with a spindle whorl, were found in debris below the cave entrance. Despite this find, it is generally thought unlikely that Romans occupied this site on a permanent or long-term basis.
A Brief History
The first castle known to have been built at this site was in 1197 by the Welsh prince; Rhys ap Gruffudd. However, in 1248 his grand-daughter, Matilda de Braose, granted the castle to the Anglo-Normans. Over the next thirty years the castle changed ownership back-and-forth as war raged between the Normans and the Deheubarth Kingdom.
Photo courtesy of DroneScene
By 1283, the castle was in the hands of the Normans as records show Edward I granted ownership of the castle to John Giffard, 1st Baron Giffard, the commander of the English troops during the Battle of Orewin Bridge where Llywelyn ap Gruffudd (the last Prince of Wales) was killed. It is thought that Baron Giffard (or his son of the same name), then repaired and greatly expanded the Welsh castle, the ruins of which are visible today.

For the next 40 years the castle remained in the the Giffard ownership, until 1322 when John Giffard,the 2nd Baron Giffard, became involved in an anti-royal conspiracy and was executed by Edward II of England. The castle then passed between various owners until it landed in the hands of Henry Bolingbroke, who was crowned as Henry IV in 1399. This inturn, gave ownership of the castle to the English Crown.

In the fall of 1400, the Welsh rebellion of Owain Glyndŵr began and by the summer of 1403 most of Wales was aligned with Owain Glyndŵr. Sir John Scudamore (and sheriff) was at that time managing the stronghold of Carreg Cennan, on behalf of King Henry IV. In 1402, Scudamore was actively defending Carreg Cennen Castle and repelling successive onslaughts which lasted an entire year. During this time the castle suffered serious damages and detailed records from 1414-1421 describe the expenditures made for repairs.
Photo courtesy of The Gaurdian
By 1454 at the start of the War of the Roses, Carreg Cennen Castle was garrisoned by the Lancasters under the command of Gruffud ap Nicholas. Under his stewardship many necessary repairs and some modernizations were incorporated to the castle, including the introduction of loop holes for the use of hand firearms.

After the defeat of the Lancasters at the Battle of Mortimer’s Cross in 1461, Gruffudd’s sons, along with a large group of supporters took refuge in the castle. However, the following year the castle was eventually surrendered to York forces and an army was sent to destroy the castle to prevent future enemies from its re-capture. From that fateful moment the castle has remained in ruins.
Aerial shot via Google Maps.
The Architecture
Carreg Cennen Castle sits atop a massive limestone crag nearly 300 feet (90-100m) above the River Cennen valley floor. The main gatehouse faces to the north, whilst towers stand at either side on the northwest and northeast corners. The southern side is protected by a natural 85m vertical cliff.

The layout of the castle is fairly square at 28m x 32m, however the southern curtain was is at a slight angle following contour of the cliff edge. There were two outer wards, one to the east and one facing north — which would have been the two weakest sides of defense. A smaller outer gate also faced east which lead directly to the castle barbicon. There are only small remnants of these defenses remaining.
Plan of the castle by J.M. Lewis and Cadw.
The main castle consists of a heavily-walled square court surrounded by six towers, all of different shapes. The castle hasn't a keep, however, the great twin-towered main-gatehouse on the north is greatly fortified on both the outside, as well as from the inner courtyard which could have acted as a resort of last defense.

The two corner towers standing opposite the main-gatehouse are the largest and most unusual. The northwest tower being cylindrical, whilst the tower at the northeast corner is polygonal. Additionally, along the middle of the eastern curtainwall a smaller four-sided tower contained the chapel.

It is thought that all the curtain walls were then topped with wooden parapets that protruded over the face of the walls for wall-walks and additonal defense. Lastly, a series of three drawbridges set at opposing angles over deep pits further protected access to the main-gate-house and inner ward.
Incubus, 1991, Gary Hume. Tate, Presented by Janet Wolfson Botton 1996. © Gary Hume. Photo: Tate - A.Sorrell
On the east side of the inner court, a range of apartments include a hall, kitchen, access to the tower chapel, and the "King's Chamber". Within this chamber is a well-carved stone fireplace and two traceried windows; one facing into the courtyard, whilst the other faces outwards — commanding impressive views over the southern cliff and countryside.

Perhaps the most unique feature of the castle is along the southern part of the outer-ward. Just above the high escarpment and behind a defensive wall, a long vaulted passage leads to a cave directly under the castle. This unusual walled-passage is illuminated by narrow slit openings, however the last few meters are carved directly through the rock-face.

From there, a set of narrow stairs twist down into the cave. Holes in the cave entrance were used as a dovecote, then after another 46 meters and down to the end of this hidden corridor, water flowed into a natural basin.

The construction of such an elaborate passage connecting to the cave as a source of water does not seem to be the only reason for its construction. Perhaps the passage and cave also served defensive functions, but the real puprose remains a mystery.
c.1798, Graphite on paper - J. M. W. Turner. © Tate, Photo: Tate
Recent & Current History
During the 18th century ownership of the castle passed to the Vaughan and Cawdor families and soon began to attract attention. Artists such as J. M. W. Turner painted a sketch of the castle in 1798 (shown above). An extensive renovation began in the 19th century by second Earl Cawdor and in 1932 Carreg Cennen was given to the guardianship of the Office of Works. The castle was inadvertantly acquired by the Morris family of Castell Farm in the 1960's, when Lord Cawdor's legal team made a mistake in the wording of the deeds and included the castle as part of the farm.

Today, the castle remains privately owned by Margaret and Bernard Llewellyn, daughter and son-in-law of the late Mr. Gwilim Morris. The castle is maintained by Cadw and is open daily from 9.30am to 5.00pm between April - October and 9.30 to 4.30pm, November - March (closed Christmas Day).
References:
I then began the walk up the hill to face the castle head-on.
Only a small trace of stonework remains of the outer ward and towers which circled the more "accessable" sides of the castle. Entered by a small gateway, this preliminary enclosure was designed to delay access to the castle's main structure and also held the stables and workshops. From this view (image above) you can see the huge North East Tower as it was positioned perfectly to attack intruders trapped in the outer ward. (The taller central tower is the Chapel Tower)

After making the steep climb myself and standing there, looking up at the massive stone walls, I can attest that I cannot imagine how anyone would have attempted such an assault.
Additionally, a large stone-lined ditch runs along the southeast corner which adds another layer of defense and would have been a surprising obstacle once inside the outer ward.
Climbing down into the ditch and carefully making my way to the outer edge, I could see over the cliff and across the valley below. It is an unnerving view.
Just past the ditch there is another interesting structure; a lime kiln. To be honest, I had no idea what this strange mound of rocks was at the time and it wasn't until I returned home and began researching that I discovered its use.
Limestone would have been quarried from a nearby hillside, hauled up to the outer ward and then burned in the kiln to produce quicklime; a highly corrosive yet essential component for making mortar used in the construction and repair of the castle.
The left of the Chapel Tower is a latrine outlet. Working in the outer ward must have been quite an odorous affair.
Moving north, there would have been a series of bridges turning sharply left and right over deep pits creating a narrow walkway toward the Main Gate. These bridges could have been drawn-up, creating almost insurmountable access to the castle's inner ward.
The original wooden bridges have long been gone and today they have been been replaced with fixed steel ramps making access for visitors much less dangerous. But the pits remain and the climb up to the main gate is still daunting and the barbican still intimidates.
Crossing the final bridge to the Main Gate, turning to look back across the remains of the outer ward wall and valley below offers a stunning view.
Standing there, looking at this walkway I wondered to myself; "how many men died here, trying to cross this narrow walkway, fighting to enter this castle?"
Entering the castle, it is immediately evident that the entirety of the Inner Ward is ruinous.
Facing the southwest corner (image above). Most of the Western Curtain Wall has been demolished. What remains of the courtyard is a mystery.
Facing the northeast corner and the remains of the great North Tower still evoke a sense of immense power (image above).
Walking across the courtyard and turning back to face the inner side of the Gate House and the remains of the expansive kitchen (image above).
Little remains of what was once the massive Northwest Tower (image above).
A few stairs remain inside the Gate House which may be climbed a short distance. The views from there offer a panoramic scene across the courtyard. Facing the southwest corner again, the amount of destruction to the Western Curtain Wall and Northwest Tower appear much more evident (images above and below).
Back down in the Inner Ward and facing east, the remains of the Chapel Tower and internal buildings stand in a broken jumble of walls and staircases (images above). Modern walkways now connect several of the upper floors providing access to what little remains of the domestic rooms.
Climbing the winding stairs and making your way through a narrow hallway offers access to the Lord's Chamber (images above and below).
The finely arched windows with their window-seats are the only indications of style or comfort to be found throughout the castle remains.
Heading back down through the stairs to view additional details of the domestic buildings.
Returning to the inner ward and facing south toward the domestic buildings and Chapel Tower (image above). The devastation is so extensive that I find it hard to imagine how this must have once looked.
`
Workers collect fallen rocks as the walls continue to crumble (image above).
I wonder if there is a way to tell if there were glass in those widows? "By the 13th century a king or great baron might have "white (greenish) glass" in some of his windows, and by the 14th century glazed windows were common."[1]
Footnote [1]: Life in a Medieval Castle
Then it was time to explore one of the most unique features found at any castle in the UK and also one of the most intriguing... the castle cave!
Below the Lord's Chamber in the southeast corner of the castle there is a doorway leading to a set of very steep steps down to an open landing, almost like a porch on the outside of the southern rock wall.
From there, it is a nearly 300 ft. vertical drop to the valley below and the view is breathtaking. However, across the landing is yet another doorway leading into a long narrow corridor (image below).
The vaulted passage has been reinforced with stone and additionally five windows were created allowing light into the corridor.
Perhaps there was once a natural ledge along the cliff face that was walled and covered to improve internal access and more importantly, prevent anyone outside the castle access to the cave located at the end.

Highlighted below shows an external view of the castle and the cave passage with it's five narrow windows along the southern cliff.
And it is the cave found at the end of the passage that fascinates and perplexes historians. To reach the cave itself, an extremely steep set of stairs takes you even deeper into the bowels of this massive limestone formation upon which the castle sits.
Descending another 30-40 ft., there is then a large rectangular room illuminated by several openings in the wall from what is believed to be a dove cote.
Opposite the dove cote on the far wall is the narrow entrance to the cave (image above). No light from the dove cote penetrates the crevice. It is roughly two feet wide (at it's widest), yet high enough for me to stand upright. However, it is in complete and utter darkness. The ground is uneven and rocks jutt awkwardly from the walls. Everything felt wet and slippery.

I had only a small torch with which to guide myself as I carefully made my way further; one hand holding my camera, one hand fumbling over the walls, the torch — I held between my teeth. Taking photos was nearly impossible, but I was determined to reach the end.
I will not deny that this experience was nothing short of spooky. There were no other visitors. I couldn't hear any distant voices. I was completely alone, in the dark, in a cave 40-50 ft. under an 800 year-old medieval castle.

More than once I wondered; "If I were to injure myself, how long would it for take someone to find me? How long would I be here, alone?"
Day Three Summary: Carreg Cennen Castle
Tie things up. Summarize why you made this trip, then briefly describe what you liked or disliked about the ride. Would you make the ride again? Could this ride be used in your "Route to Ride" section?

Make a brief reference to the ride report card shown below with any significant details of which they should be aware. What's next?
Keep it short. You should also include a brief description of the weather and any important landmarks the reader might appreciate. Say your thank you's.

I hope you enjoyed my report and thanks for reading!

Seeya down the road... Cheers! - cm
▲ Back to top
Subscribe to: Comments (Atom)