Bannau Brycheiniog by Cycle | Day Three
Carreg Cennen Castle
I awoke to the sounds of birds chirping and radiant blue skies. I climbed out of my tent, stretched my arms and legs — and as I gazed up at the mighty Carreg Cennen Castle; I just knew it was going to be a glorious day.
DAY THREE
WALKING |
Carreg Cennen Castle |
Date: Wednesday, June 21, 2023
Distance: 3.0 mi. / 4.82 km
Elevation: +439 ft / -431 ft
Duration: roughly 6 hours
Distance: 3.0 mi. / 4.82 km
Elevation: +439 ft / -431 ft
Duration: roughly 6 hours
The campsite was still empty and quiet the next morning. Having no need to pack my gear, I could take my time making breakfast and contemplate the day. No cycling for me. I had the day off and I needed it. I planned to simply hike from the campsite up to the castle, wander around exploring, take some photos and wander back. Nothing else, no rush... I had all day.
The camp host stopped by to say hello and tell me that it was be a nice day with no rain in the forecast. It looked fantastic! (as shown below in the view I had with my breakfast...)
If you notice below you'll see that I tied out my guylines. I was not going to wake up with water under my tent again!
I have a traditional breakfast I often make whilst camping; scrambled eggs with cheddar cheese and grilled sausage. I also have some orange juice followed by a couple of cups of good strong coffee to get me properly fueled for the day.
I often take two campstoves. It's completely unnecessary, but very convenient because one can boil water quickly (for my coffee to get started), whilst the other can fry my eggs & sausage slowly.
Knowing that I'd be out for the day, I also made a flask of coffee to take with me on the hike. Fortunately for me as well, my lovely wife made me a tasty sandwich to take with me before I left home.
Knowing that I'd be out for the day, I also made a flask of coffee to take with me on the hike. Fortunately for me as well, my lovely wife made me a tasty sandwich to take with me before I left home.
With my hip bag packed and camera strapped over my shoulder, I set off to explore the castle and surrounding countryside by foot.
As the name suggests, Trapp Fishery is mostly visited by folks wanting to fish. There's a small man-made lake stocked with bream and carp, several small yurts and a well-appointed cabin, as well as the small campground where I'm pitched.
It's a charming place actually, its not the well-manicured campsite you often find with many of the larger campervan sites, but it has a sort of "old school" vibe.
It's a charming place actually, its not the well-manicured campsite you often find with many of the larger campervan sites, but it has a sort of "old school" vibe.
I poked around the lake a bit, stuck my nose in the yurt — as the place was empty except for myself, and then made my way to the far side of the property where I found the footpath leading north toward the castle.
Immediately, the path dropped down a steep hill and the woods became quite thick. The trail was clearly marked and easy to follow, but it didn't appear to have been used much this season.
As I made my way, I could hear the trickle of a small stream burried deep in the underbrush off to my right. I could almost taste the smell of the morning damp mixed with the fresh scent from the trees, ferns and mosses.
By this point my shoes were sopping wet and after several hundred feet, the path eventually crossed the stream by an old washed-out footbridge. On the opposite side of the stream, the path began a steep climb.
Looking back down the path (image above), the depth of the gorge was rather surprising. Then it was just a short bit further to the edge of the woods where I came to a clearing and towering ahead of me, high on the hill in the distance was the castle.
I can honestly say it sent chills down my back and I had goosebumps on my arms. I couldn't help but imagine what medeival solider's thought when they first saw this intimidating view.
The walk dipped and rolled through a series of small paddocks inter-connected by rickety styles, the castle disappearing and reappearing over the hillside as I continued.
The morning was bright and glorious. The temperature was cool, but warming. Looking back over the valley as I climbed, I couldn't help but feel very fortunate.
Nearby cows were lowing; their bells clanking flatly. I could hear sheep bleating from far across the fields. A few small brown rabbits hopped about the clover and buttercups, twitching their ears nervously, looking back at me guardedly.
Nearing the top of the paddock, I turned left following the hedgerow, making my way toward the farm and visitors centre. The castle towered above my right, menacing in its silouette against the sky.
I soon reached the Carreg Cennan Farm. An array of antique agricultural equipment decorated the outside of most all of the buildings, fascinating in their decay. The old stables and cart house have been restored and modernised so that they now house the visitors centre & tea room. A new oak barn built in the mid-90's provides a rustic venue for weddings, ceremonies, and conferences.
The farm itself is still a working farm with longhorn cattle, Welsh mountain sheep, and an assortment of horses. Dogs lumbered about, mildly interested in the early morning visitor, accepting attention when offered. I spotted a yellow cat darting behind a painted milkcan. Another stretched lazily along a stone wall, blinking, sleepy-eyed, unbothered.
Wagon wheels taller than a small child leaned against the outside walls of an 11th century longhouse. Nestled in the centre of the old farmyard, this too has been restored into a heritage museum as it offers an extensive display of agricultural artefacts from all over the UK.
The farm itself is still a working farm with longhorn cattle, Welsh mountain sheep, and an assortment of horses. Dogs lumbered about, mildly interested in the early morning visitor, accepting attention when offered. I spotted a yellow cat darting behind a painted milkcan. Another stretched lazily along a stone wall, blinking, sleepy-eyed, unbothered.
Wagon wheels taller than a small child leaned against the outside walls of an 11th century longhouse. Nestled in the centre of the old farmyard, this too has been restored into a heritage museum as it offers an extensive display of agricultural artefacts from all over the UK.
I briefly poked my head around the gift shop that had just opened (9:30am). The clerks were cheerful and welcoming, but I was sadly disappointed to find the Cadw book on the castle was sold out. I paid my admission (£7) and started up the hill to the main event.
It was a quiet Wednesday morning and I had the place to myself.
The path up to the castle zig-zags its way from the northern side to reach a second gatehouse standing above the very steep eastern edge. It wouldn't be an easy climb from that direction, but I guess they have to be sure to keep folks from trying.
Meanwhile, turning west; the castle is an imposing sight (image below) with still more climbing to be made — and over some very rugged ground, no less!
Meanwhile, turning west; the castle is an imposing sight (image below) with still more climbing to be made — and over some very rugged ground, no less!
Photo courtesy of Visit Wales
A Brief History
Photo courtesy of DroneScene
Photo courtesy of The Gaurdian
Aerial shot via Google Maps.
The Architecture
Plan of the castle by J.M. Lewis and Cadw.
photo courtesy CasterCrawlCymru, diagram: Bike Wales.
Incubus, 1991, Gary Hume. Tate, Presented by Janet Wolfson Botton 1996. © Gary Hume. Photo: Tate - A.Sorrell
c.1798, Graphite on paper - J. M. W. Turner. © Tate, Photo: Tate
Recent & Current History
References:
I then began the walk up the hill to face the castle head-on.
Only a small trace of stonework remains of the outer ward and towers which circled the more "accessable" sides of the castle. Entered by a small gateway, this preliminary enclosure was designed to delay access to the castle's main structure and also held the stables and workshops. From this view (image above) you can see the huge North East Tower as it was positioned perfectly to attack intruders trapped in the outer ward. (The taller central tower is the Chapel Tower)
After making the steep climb myself and standing there, looking up at the massive stone walls, I can attest that I cannot imagine how anyone would have attempted such an assault.
After making the steep climb myself and standing there, looking up at the massive stone walls, I can attest that I cannot imagine how anyone would have attempted such an assault.
Additionally, a large stone-lined ditch runs along the southeast corner adding another layer of defense which would have been a surprising obstacle once inside the outer ward.
Climbing down into the ditch and carefully making my way to the outer edge, I could see over the cliff and across the valley below. It is an unnerving view.
Just past the ditch there is another interesting structure; a lime kiln. To be honest, I had no idea what this strange mound of rocks was at the time and it wasn't until I returned home and began researching that I discovered its use.
Limestone would have been quarried from a nearby hillside, hauled up to the outer ward and then burned in the kiln to produce quicklime; a highly corrosive yet essential component for making mortar used in the construction and repair of the castle.
The left of the Chapel Tower is a latrine outlet. Working in the outer ward must have been quite an odorous affair.
Moving north, there would have been a series of bridges turning sharply left and right over deep pits creating a narrow walkway toward the Main Gate. These bridges could have been drawn-up, creating almost insurmountable access to the castle's inner ward.
The original wooden bridges are long gone and today have been been replaced with fixed steel ramps making visitors access far less dangerous. But the pits remain and the climb up to the main gate is quite daunting. The barbican still intimidates.
Crossing the final bridge to the Main Gate, turning to look back across the remains of the outer ward wall; the valley below offers a stunning view.
Standing there, looking at this modern walkway, I wondered to myself; "how many men died here, trying to cross this barbicon, fighting to enter this castle?"
It is immediately evident upon entering the castle that the entirety of the Inner Ward is ruinous.
Facing the southwest corner (image above), most of the Western Curtain Wall has been demolished. What remains of the courtyard is a mystery.
Facing the northeast corner (image above), the remains of the great North Tower still evoke a sense of immense power and strength.
Across the courtyard and facing the remains of the inner side of the Gate House and the expansive kitchen (image above), these too seem complex and powerful.
Little remains of what was once the massive Northwest Tower (image above).
A few stairs still exist inside the Gate House which may be climbed a short distance. The views from there offer a panoramic scene across the courtyard. Facing the southwest corner again, the amount of destruction to the Western Curtain Wall and Northwest Tower appear much more evident (images above and below).
Back down in the Inner Ward and facing east, the ruinous Chapel Tower and internal buildings stand in a broken jumble of walls and staircases (images above). Modern walkways now connect several of the upper floors providing access to what little remains of the domestic rooms.
Climbing the winding stairs and making your way through a narrow hallway offers access to the Lord's Chamber (images above and below).
The finely arched windows with their window-seats are the only indications of style or comfort to be found throughout the castle.
Heading back down through the stairs to view additional details of the domestic buildings.
Returning to the inner ward and facing south toward the domestic buildings and Chapel Tower (image above). The devastation is so extensive that I find it hard to imagine how this must have once looked.
`
Workers collect fallen stones as the walls continue to crumble (image above).
"By the 13th century a king or great baron might have had "white (greenish) glass" in some of his windows, and by the 14th century glazed windows were common."[1]
Footnote [1]: Life in a Medieval Castle
Then it was time to explore one of the most unique and intriguing features of Carreg Cennen, unlike any found at any castle in the UK... the castle cave!
Below the Lord's Chamber in the southeast corner of the castle there is a doorway leading to a set of very steep steps down to an open landing. This small area is almost like a porch, hanging high above the outside of the southern rock face.
From there, it is a nearly 300 ft. vertical drop to the valley floor and the view is breathtaking. However, across the landing is yet another doorway leading to a long narrow corridor (image below).
Perhaps there was once a natural ledge along the cliff face that was walled and covered-over to improve internal access and more importantly, to prevent external access to the cave located at the far end.
The vaulted passage has been reinforced with stone and additionally five windows were created allowing light into the corridor.
The highlighted section in the image below shows the external view of the castle and the cave passage with it's narrow windows along the southern cliff.
The highlighted section in the image below shows the external view of the castle and the cave passage with it's narrow windows along the southern cliff.
photo credit: Lise Hull
And it is the cave found at the end of the passage that fascinates and perplexes historians. To reach the cave itself, an extremely steep set of stairs takes you even deeper into the bowels of this massive limestone formation upon which the castle sits.
Descending another 30-40 ft., there is then a large rectangular room illuminated by several openings in the wall from what is believed to be a dove cote.
Opposite the dove cote on the far wall is a narrow entrance into the cave. No light from the dove cote penetrates the crevice which is roughly two feet wide (at it's widest), yet high enough for one to stand upright (±6 ft.).
However, the entrance is in complete and utter darkness. The ground is uneven and rocks jutt awkwardly from the walls. Everything is wet and slippery.
However, the entrance is in complete and utter darkness. The ground is uneven and rocks jutt awkwardly from the walls. Everything is wet and slippery.
I had only a small torch with which to guide myself as I carefully made my way into the darkness; one hand holding my camera, one hand fumbling over the walls; the torch — gripped tightly between my teeth. Taking photos was nearly impossible, yet I was determined to explore further.
I will not deny that this experience was unsettling. There were no other visitors around. I couldn't hear any distant voices. I was completely alone, in the dark, in a narrow cave, 50 ft. under an 800 year-old medieval castle.
More than once I wondered; If I were to injure myself, what would I do here, alone? How would anyone find me?
More than once I wondered; If I were to injure myself, what would I do here, alone? How would anyone find me?
At the very end of the cave is a well. Historians speculate that this may have been a source of drinking water for the castle, especially in times of siege. This woud also explain reinforcing the passage to protect this valuable resource from attackers.
As mentioned earlier, this cave has been used for millennia. Human bones were discovered at the mouth of the cave dating back to the paleolithic period. Additionally, Roman coins from the 1st and 2nd century have been found, but it is thought unlikely that the Romans occupied the site on a permanent basis.
As mentioned earlier, this cave has been used for millennia. Human bones were discovered at the mouth of the cave dating back to the paleolithic period. Additionally, Roman coins from the 1st and 2nd century have been found, but it is thought unlikely that the Romans occupied the site on a permanent basis.
As I made my way back out from the cave, again I wondered; how many men have crawled through this cave? Needless to say, I was glad to see the light again.
Standing in the outer chamber, just outside the cave entrance, facing the dove cote... it was time to climb out and back to the present.
Stopping again on the landing above the corridor, the view looking up toward the castle is quite dramatic (image above)... it reminded me of something from Game of Thrones.
Then I was back on the Inner Ward facing the ruins of the North-West Tower.
The North-West tower is the only cylindrical tower in Carreg Cennen. The room on the ground floor has three cross-shaped arrowslits, each facing a different direction. There was at least one, and possibly two floors above the ground level, accessible only from defensive walls standing to the left and right of the tower.
At nearly 8 meters in diameter, the unusual width of the tower and thickness of the walls (2m) is thought to be due to the conditions of the terrain below. Also notable of this tower is that one of the arrowslits was re-configured for muskets in the 15th century (image below).
Leaving the tower and wandering back onto the Inner Ward, I think thnat I've explored just about all of the castle. It was an extrordinary visit.
I drifted out the Main Gate and looked out over the countryside. The afternoon sun was giving way to clouds. Rain appeared in the distance.
A few visitors began wander about then, their loud voices echoing off the walls was a surprising change. They were American too!
I made my way down to the Outer Ward as a few raindrops began to fall. But before I left for camp, there was area outside the castle I wanted to explore...
On the west side of the castle, a small rocky knoll rises up from the hillside. I noticed it from an arrow slit in the North-West Tower and was intrigued. I wondered what views it may offer?
Walking to the side, I spotted two more caves, which at first seemed interesting, but on second thought... I decided that I'd had enough spelunking for the day! (image below)
Instead, I decided to crawl out upon a bare rock precipice!
Yes, it was windy, and yes, it was spotting with rain, and at nearly 300 ft. above the valley floor, yes, the views were incredible.
But after a several minutes of heart-stopping exhilaration, I wisely decided to tuck my camera away and slowly, carefully crawl back down.
My knees were still shaking as I descended through the Outer Ward on the southern side and made my way onto the narrow footpath heading into the woods.
Following a small paper map I was given at the Visitor Centre; it showed this path loops gently down and around to the castle farm.
And just like that I was back down from the castle. I was just in time too, as a coach full of noisy tourists began splilling out into the car park by the Visitor Centre.
The old dog was wagging his tail as he meandered toward the crowd. No sign of the cats, though. Understandingly, I too wanted to avoid the horde.
The old dog was wagging his tail as he meandered toward the crowd. No sign of the cats, though. Understandingly, I too wanted to avoid the horde.
The road back was inviting. The rain had passed and I was all smiles. I slung my backpack over my shoulder and strolled down the hill.
A half-mile further, I looked over my shoulder and asked myself; "How cool was that?!"
And further down, I looked back again and thought to myself; "Amazing."
I reached my campsite near the bottom of the road and was suddenly very hungry and very tired. I had spent nearly eight hours wandering and exploring.
Back at my tent, I kicked off my shoes, pulled out the campstove, and began making dinner with an incredible view.
DAY THREE - SUMMARY:
Carreg Cennen Castle
I had been wanting to visit this legendary castle since first I heard of it nearly 15 years ago. It was more than I could have ever imagined. The castle's scale is simply stunning and it's position on the massivie limestone crag is nothing less than spectacular.
Pictures I had seen always made it seem dramatic, but nothing prepared me for actually seeing it in-person. Climbing up the hill just to reach the Outer Ward was daunting. I have never felt such a massive sense of power and strength at any other castle. It was simply mind-boggling.
Having the site to myself was amazing. Being able to wander freely, to take photographs without interferance from chatty tourists wearing bright gaudy colours was fantastic. Overall, it had been a wonder, wonderful day.
Pictures I had seen always made it seem dramatic, but nothing prepared me for actually seeing it in-person. Climbing up the hill just to reach the Outer Ward was daunting. I have never felt such a massive sense of power and strength at any other castle. It was simply mind-boggling.
Having the site to myself was amazing. Being able to wander freely, to take photographs without interferance from chatty tourists wearing bright gaudy colours was fantastic. Overall, it had been a wonder, wonderful day.
The weather had ben perfect. Rain sprinkled a short while as I was leaving, but the temperature had been warm with a light breeze most all day.
I was back at the campsite by 4:00 pm and sacked out for the night before dark. The next day however, was going to be different; I was to begin the ride home.
I hope you enjoyed my report and thanks for reading!
Seeya down the road... Cheers! - cm
I was back at the campsite by 4:00 pm and sacked out for the night before dark. The next day however, was going to be different; I was to begin the ride home.
I hope you enjoyed my report and thanks for reading!
Seeya down the road... Cheers! - cm
Note: You may click below to continue reading about my adventure. ▼
