Bannau Brycheiniog by Cycle
Oakdale to Talybont-on-Usk
With blue skies and mild temperatures, the mid-June weather was perfect for a cycling & camping adventure. I loaded my bike with everything I could carry and set off on a 5-day tour riding my bicycle across Bannau Brycheiniog.
DAY ONE
ON ROAD
 + NCN 466 | 49 Oakdale to Talybont-on-Usk
Date: June 19, 2023
Distance: 41.1 mi. / 66.63 km
Elevation: +1,110 ft / -1,420 ft
Duration: 7 hours, 57 mins.
The first part of the trip was to simply cross the valley over to Pontypool and join the Monmouthshire & Brecon Canal (NCN Route 49) at the Pontymoile Boat Basin. From there, I followed the canal path for another 27 easy miles to my first night of camping at the village of Talybont-on-Usk.
By now I've got a pretty good notion of how I like to pack my bike. However, I tend to over-pack somewhat, but I always say; "it's better to have it and not need it, than need it and not have it." One day I'll make a gear list/photo shoot.
I stopped by the abandoned Courage pub in Crumlin for my parting shot (image above). I like decrepit and abandoned buildings (Wales has plenty) and I love the name of the pub. It seems very fitting as a starting point for a cyclist as he begins an adventure. I especially like the peeling paint and the flowers/weeds growing out of the windowsill.
Looking back over Crumlin and Treowen as I climbed the hill to Sofrydd, the day seemed promising. This was to be the only hill for me to climb today. It's short, but at 16% incline, it's very steep. Needless to say, I pushed my bike up (image below).
Then it was smooth sailing across the valley on the Old Crumlin Road, past the "spaceship" (coal washery) and into Pontypool.
And by 10:00 am when I reached the Monmouthshire & Brecon Canal at Pontymoile Boat Basin — the place was buzzing! Even though this was a Monday morning, walkers and cyclists were out taking advantage of the wonderful weather. The little boathouse/coffeeshop is super-cute too.
From here, I had 27 miles of mostly flat, easy cycling along this beautiful canal... and so the adventure begins! I am a lucky boy.
Monmouthshire & Brecon Canal
Celebrating the 225th Anniversary
For most of its navigable length, the M&B Canal runs through the Bannau Brycheiniog National Park. It's a classic example of early "contour construction" where the canal follows the lay of the land. This technique minimised the need for expensive tunnels and locks. However, this also made the canal much longer as it weaves back and forth along the hillside.
The Monmouthshire & Brecon Canal we see today was originally two completely seperate canals; The Monmouth Canal and the Abergavenny & Brecknock Canal. Both canals were completed by 1810 and then later joined in 1812, making this the second longest canal system in Wales.
The first cut began in 1796 at Llangattock. (Illustration by Michael Blackmore)
The Monmouth Canal was first proposed in 1792 and consisted of two branches. The main branch ran from Newport to Pontypool at a length of 12.5 mi., rising by 447 ft. through 42 locks. The second branch left the main branch just outside Newport to continue for 11 mi. north to the village of Crumlin, rising 358 ft. through 32 locks (including the legendary flight of Fourteen Locks).
The Brecknock & Abergavenny Canal was a seperate venture proposed in 1793. This canal would link the town of Brecon to the River Usk near Caerleon. However, after the intial design the plans were altered to direct the new canal toward Pontypool whereby a junction could then be created to share navigation further down to Newport.
The Monmouthshire & Brecon Canal as we see it today near bridge 110 Llangattock.
The upper canal (shown in blue) is the The Brecknock & Abergavenny Canal, whilst the The Monmnouth Canal with it's two branches is shown in red.
A Brief History - In the late 18th century, Wales was mostly a rural, agricultural country, but the Industrial Revolution was on its way. Fueled by coal and built with iron, businessmen quickly realised that the Valleys of South Wales had all the raw materials to produce high quality iron and the stage was set.
Illustration by Michael Blackmore
In the 1780's, coal was transported from high in the Welsh Valleys to iron factories in the south using wagons pulled by mules or packhorses along rickety iron dramways. It was a slow and difficult process; one horse could pull one ton of coal (including the wagon!) Recognising the industrial need, as well as realising the commercial profits to be made, the Welsh Valleys were soon at the heart of this revolution. Businessmen and politicians alike sought to develop and expand the coal rich valleys of South East Wales.

Authorised by acts of Parliament, the 35 miles of the Abergavenny & Brecknock Canal and the 23.5 miles of the The Monmouth Canal (including both branches) took only 13 years to complete, depite many physical setbacks and being dug primarily by hand! This massive engineering feat also included several long tunnels, multiple aquaducts, and over 120 bridges, both for road crossings, as well as to accommodate landowners whose property was split by the new canal.

When opened in 1810, the canals were hugely successful. During the first year it was reported that the canals transported 3,500 tons of coal, but by 1812, when the two canals were officially joined, the amount of coal increased to over 150,000 tons.
Often when not in use by the iron masters, the canals also served as a vital transportation route for a variety groups and individuals, including families and those simply seeking leisure.
From the the ironworks and coal mines, to the canal operators and boatmen, to the all the towns, villages, and people that lived along its banks; these canals changed South Wales as as much as coal or iron did. Quite simply, the canals were a new form of transportation for goods, as well as for people. For 50 years these canals played a vital role to both the development of the Industrial Revolution and the daily lives of everyone they served.
Cefn Flight or 14 Locks seen in its heyday sometime during the 1830's.
Sadly though, the end was nigh for the canals as their prosperity did not last. By the mid-1850's railways were seriously undercutting the cost of transporting goods down the valley. Cheaper and faster; railway networks were easier to build and maintain, they could carry more, and could reach wider areas.

In 1865 the companies that managed the two canals merged in an attempt to consolidate revenues, but it was too late. Soon the Monmouthshire Canal closed to boat traffic, whilst the Abergavenny & Brecknock canal became simply a water feeder for other purposes. Surprisingly, control of the canals actually passed to the Great Western Railway in 1880 who had no need of the system at all. What remained of the canals became disused, overgrown, and derelict.

By the 1950's and after nearly 150 years since its inception the canal system had been completely abandoned. Large sections had been filled in, small bridges were replaced for modern roads leaving no room for boats, and large portions of the surrounding land had been developed for housing and industry that had no need or desire for a canal.
The newly restored canal with new housing and a future marina at the village of Sebastopol in 2021.
Restoration - By the mid-1960's talk of restoring the canals started gaining momentum as the canal was seen as a valuable asset to the natural beauty of the Brecon Beacons. And because such a large portion of the canal passed through the national park, funding from a National Parks legislation became available. Surprisingly, work began once again on the grand old canal and in 1970, the section from Brecon to Pontymoile was re-opened as a source of pride and recreation.

Further restoration of canal began again in 1994, when Crown Bridge in Sebastopol was raised to give sufficient height for navigation again and then the section from Pontypool down to Five locks was restored and formally opened in 1997. Work started again in 2008 on a 2-mile section through Malpas and from Newport up to 14 Locks, both being completed for the Welsh Waterways Festival held in 2010.

In 2012, the Canal & River Trust was founded as a charity whose sole purpose is to care for the 2,000-mile network of canals running throughout the UK. That same year they were awarded a grant of £854,500 by the Heritage Lottery Fund, to enable the eight locks near Ty Coch to be restored.
Restoration works at Ty Coch during 2019.
Further development continues today with a grand set of ideas and plans. Ultimately, Canal & River Trust would like to see the canal restored to full navigation, so that boats could travel from Brecon all the way down to Newport and then turn up the Cefn Flight of Fourteen Locks to Cwmcarn. It's proposed that boats could even cruise on the River Usk via a marina and river link at Crindau, Newport.
Present Day Use - Today, the M&B is considered by many to be the most beautiful canal in all of the UK. Unlike most canals in other parts of the UK, which are found in urban and industrialised areas, the M&B Canal is primarily rural — which affords spectacular views of the surrounding countryside.

And because the canal is not accessible from any other waterway, its sole purpose now is for leisure boats, walkers, and cylists to enjoy.
Lovely and serene, the canal offers a quiet escape by a scenic waterway brimming with wildlife.
Lastly, for the intrepid sightseer, the canal also passes a variety of nearby significant historical landmarks. The Blaenavon World Heritage Site contains industrial landmarks such as the Big Pit National Mining Museum, Blaenavon Iron Works, and the Blaenavon Heritage Railway. The Cefn Flight (or Fourteen Locks) has recently been recognised as being of international significance, and is on Cadw's list of Scheduled Ancient Monuments.
References:
Essentially, the Monmoutshire & Brecon Canal is a must see. I have taken all of our frends and family that have come for a visit to see this lovely waterway and it's perhaps my most photographed area of South East Wales. But let's move on...
I paused briefly at Bridge 61 to admire the views. Off to my left on the far hill, Folly Tower overlooks the canal and Usk Valley (image below).
The smell of wild garlic is intoxicating. In the distance I can hear a tractor putt-putting along through a field, while moorhens squawk nervously from the banks of the canal.
I have photographed this canal more times than I can count, but no part of it more than this short section. It is so full of personality.
Six miles up the canal from Pontymoile Boat Basin is Goytre Wharf. The canal itself dates back to the early the 19th century and the lime kilns found here were a significant commercial enterprise that utilized the canals during the industrial revolution.

In the mid-2000’s Goytre Wharf was completely restored and became the Goytre Wharf Heritage & Activity Centre. The site now showcases some of the best preserved lime kilns in Wales. The site also hosts a boat hire operation (including canoe and day-boats), a full-service cafe, modern moorings, and a 4-bed holiday rental cottage which originally housed the weighing machinery and toll collectors office for the aquaduct.
Sometimes ya gotta look closely to find something interesting... and this "Swiss Family Robinson" styled treehouse (image above) is a perfect example. How cool is that?!
Then I'm in-an-out of the shade as the route moves from under the thick canopy of trees into brilliant sunshine. Sugar Loaf Mountain looms on the distant horizon (image above). The temperature is hovering around 20°c (68°f). I could not ask for a better day of cycling.
As someone who is wanting to take good photos, getting the exposure right with the high-contrast between light and dark can be very difficult. My biggest stuggle with photography is to adjust my exposure settings correctly.
Skirrid Fawr stands proud over the town of Abergavenny and the Usk Valley (image above).
Roughly 6 mi. further north from Goytre Wharf is Llanfoist Wharf. I've now entered the Blaenavon World Heritage Landscape. This 33 square kilometre (132 mi.) area was inscribed as a World Heritage Site in December of 2000 and now hosts many restored relics from Wale's industrial past. Along with this wharf, there is; the Blaenavon World Heritage Centre, Big Pit National Coal Museum, Blaenavon Ironworks, and the Blaenavon Heritage Railway.

Here we have Beacon Park Boats, and Warfingers Cottage. The rental cottages are 5-star rated whilst the canal boats have been called the "Bentleys of Barges". It's all high-luxury now and a far cry from the days of shipping coal.

Just down the hill too is the medieval town of Abergavenny. At risk of sounding like a travel agent, you could easily spend a week or more exploring the historic streets and castle. But I must continue on...
One of the many wonderful aspects of the National Cycle Network in Wales is that most all of the routes are interconnected. Here is the junction with NCN Route 46. Heading east, the route leads down into the town of Abergavenny. Turning north, the route heads up to the legendary Clydach Gorge (for more on this spectacular ride, see my Route to Ride: Clydach Gorge)
By the time I reach Govilon Wharf, I've traveled 16 miles north from Pontymoile Boat Basin. Here, the path crosses to the opposite side of the canal and becomes significantly more narrow.
Now a popular boating dock, Govilon Wharf opened in 1821 and was a strategic point along the canal for the local iron industry as it was the terminus for Bailey's Tramroad from Nantyglo Ironworks. The dock's office was originally Crawshay Bailey's Warehouse, serving Nantyglo Ironworks and the canal (image above).
And then soon enough, the towpath crosses back over to the other side of the canal.
Ya gotta love these small boat docks. It's such a wonderful little display he's made for us. Of course too, you've got wonder where and how he get all of these signs?
Shortly after Govilon Wharf I reach Gilwern Wharf and Gilwern Limekilns. More history, more to read about. Surprisingly too, there are public toilets right along the canal path (image below). They have been closed most everytime I've cycled past, but I have seen them open once or twice.
Here at Govilon you'll find the limekilns right along the waterfront, which is very unusual, but it made loading the canal boats quite easy at the time.
How about this lovely little footbridge? Talk about quaint... the "private" sign makes me even more curious about what's on the other side!

It's a lazy day for daydreaming, but I must continue on.
And then I reach the community of Dardy, just above the village of Crickhowell. Here the "Cycle Across the Beacons" route leaves the canal path for roughly 1.5 mi. and merges onto the Cwm Crawnon Road (B4558).
`
It's a picturesque little spot with lovely views overlooking the canal. (and another self-indugent bike photo...)
Looking out from the bridge; the historic village of Crickhowell sits nestled in the Usk Valley, whilst the ancient hillfort of Crug Hywel (or Table Mountain) stands on the far left horizon.
This section of Cwm Crawnon Road (B4558) is very narrow and without any sort of shoulder. Traffic can be bothersome as it can accumulate behind you and there is literally nowhere you can stop to let cars pass as you've either a step hillside or hedges directly on your left. (Note too, on the right there is a continuous wall very near the edge of the roadway as well.) But, this is only for a short distance (roughly 1.5 mi.) where then you can re-enter the towpath with ease.
Perhaps it's because you've left the roadway and the sudden change seems dramatic, but the towpath now takes on an extremely lush feel. And it is gorgeous.
The landscape of the earlier section felt rough and wild in places compared to this area appearing almost manicured or sculpted.
Here we have the beginning of a set of three locks and a wharf outside the village of Llangynidr. Smaller and quieter, this area is considered a "beauty spot" along the canal.
And to be honest, it doesn't get more scenic than this.
The next four miles are simply stunning. I love how tall the grass grows in the summer months and the tug and pull against my panniers encourages me to take my time, to go slowly, to look around. Insects buzz, ducks and moorhens sqauwk as I intrude upon their privacy.
When I reach Asford Tunnel (another interesting historical landmark), I have to stop and walk my bike a bit as the towpath becomes quite narrow and rough as it climbs up alongside the road. It's just like the horses and drivers had to do years ago.
"This is one of two tunnels on the main navigable section of the Monmouthshire & Brecon Canal. This is the longer of the two, being 343 metres long and c.3.6 metres wide with no towing path. The horses which hauled boats along the canal were detached before the tunnel and led over ground to the far end. To propel a boat through the tunnel, men would lie on planks and use their feet to push on the tunnel walls, a technique known as “legging”." - HistoryPoints.org
Houses sit alongside the canal as I approach Talybont-on-Usk. It's a charming village full of old-world charm and character.
You can see in the image above how closely aligned trains were with the canal. This is one of the few railway bridges that actually cross over the canal.
Just off the canal path is the Talybont Farm Camping. Unlike many campsites which are miles outside of town, this site is within 500 feet of the village's high street. There are two pubs, a lovely little grocery store, several small shops, and even a bike shop! (see: Bikes & Hikes) It's perhaps one of the most adorable and convenient campsites I have ever visited.
Day One Summary: Oakdale to Talybont-on-Usk
And just like that, my day was done. I picked up a few things at the grocery, checked into Talybont Farm Camping, pitched my tent, and made dinner. It had been a glorious and relaxed day of cycling. I had traveled just over 40 miles and climbed a mere 1,100 feet. It was an excellent start to a grand adventure and I felt great.
Click below to continue reading about my adventure...
Day Two: Talybont-on-Usk to Trapp or Return to the 5-Day Overview
Also of note: I had explored this route previously in 2022, so if you'd like to see more images and read about that ride, see my report: Talybont-on-Usk [explore]

I hope you enjoyed my report and thanks for reading!

Seeya down the road... Cheers! - cm
▲ Back to top
Subscribe to: Posts (Atom)