Bannau Brycheiniog by Cycle
Talybont-on-Usk to Trapp
Very much unlike the first day, my second day started off with heavy rain. As the day progressed, the weather improved slightly as I climbed deep into the heart of Bannau Brycheiniog and made my way across the high plateau toward the village of Trapp.
DAY TWO
| NCN | 49 |  |
+ | ON ROAD |
Talybont-on-Usk to Trapp |
Date: June 20, 2023
Distance: 40.2 mi. / 64.70 km
Elevation: +3,484 ft / -3,477 ft
Duration: 9 hrs, 40 mins.
Distance: 40.2 mi. / 64.70 km
Elevation: +3,484 ft / -3,477 ft
Duration: 9 hrs, 40 mins.
On day two I awoke before daylight to the discouraging sound of heavy rain and wind... not what I was hoping for. On the previous day, in my late-afternoon laissez-faire mindset, I had neglected to string out the side guy lines for my tent and despite the lovely grassy field where I was camped, water had pooled under my groundpad. Urgh.
This was going to be my "big day". I had over 40 miles of mountainous climbing along unknown roads and conditions. I was not happy to think that I'd also be navigating all of that in the rain. I fixed my breakfast, broke camp, packed the bike (wet!) and got on the road. There was no time for photos or dreamy reflection. I had to get going. Urgh.
For the first few miles from Talybont-on-Usk to Brecon the rain was intermittent. My route also happened to coincide with the Taff Trail for these first seven miles (see the small orange sticker beneath the Taff Trail sign in the image above). I have cycled this section several times before, but today I just had to keep my head down and pedal through.
From Talybont-on-Usk the route follows B4558 (again) for roughly 1.8 mi. to the village of Pencelli, where it then veers off onto a small lane winding through the countryside.
Fortunately too, the wet made made everything shine and the gray skies made the contrast of colours pop and the scenery was just lovely.
It was a completely different feeling day. The temperature was much cooler and yet when it wasn't raining the air felt thick and humid. Plus too, the insects were rather bothersome, especially as I cycled between the hedges along the narrow lanes.
At the village of Llanfrynach there is a small church which I have phototgraphed several times (image above). Maybe it's an optical illusion, but by the look of it to me; the tower seems wider at the top than at it's base?
Plus too, I generally stop here because they have the most cordial public toilets I have ever seen. They are managed purely by volunteers as well, accepting donations by a small coin slot above the bench. You would NEVER see something like this in the United States.
As I leave the village, I stop to admire the landscape. Far across to my right Pen-y-Fan looms amidst the drifting morning clouds (image below).
Then I'm back on the main road for a short .5 mi. down the hill and across the very narrow, single-lane bridge over the River Usk to re-enter the M&B Canal towpath.
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Looking south from the bridge you can see Brynich Aquaduct, one of the largest aquaducts ever built in Wales as it carries the M&B Canal over the River Usk. (This is another fascinating landmark I need to visit up close.)
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I then re-enter the traffic-free towpath at Brynich Lock. It's now just a couple of miles to the town of Brecon. The sun has come out and it's a glorious morning.
This part of the canal starts off incredibly lush. The tree branches hang low, dripping from the rain only moments ago. As I roll along my tyres are softly crunching to the sound of birds chirping everywhere.
Occassionally, when the trees open to my left, I can see the river and valley following alongside. Pen-y-Fan again looms in the distance. It is a landscape worthy of Constable.
I pass under several bridges, I ring my bell, but no one is about.
As I approach the town of Brecon, the path veers left and away from the canal directly, leading me to another historical landmark of note.
Illustration by Michael Blackmore
References:
From here the canal takes on a more suburban look. Houses line the sides. Old factories and warehouses have been converted into modern flats and businesses.
I can hear a man soflty singing as I approach a commercial boat alongside the canal. The boat gently rocks and through the curtains I can see someone moving about inside. It's a quiet soundtrack to surprisingly quiet morning.
I stop to take in the views from one of the small bridges that cross the canal. The scenes are both pastoral and urban. A far cry from their industrial heritage.
I finally reach the northern terminous of the Monmouthsire & Brecon Canal. This is also the starting location of the Taff Trail which runs 55 miles south to Cardiff. It's a great place to stop for lunch too. There are nearby shops, cafes, pubs, and toilet facilities.
From here I leave the canal and begin snaking my way through the sleepy streets of this historic market town.
Brecon itself is a fascinating place to explore. The narrow lanes are full of character and interesting places to explore. Many of the streets have been recently pedestrianised and there are outdoor cafes everywhere. Bi-Ped Cycles is nearby as well.
Note: This is one of my favourite destinations and I have written about riding here previously. See my reports: Back to Brecon and Brecon & Beyond.
Without going into a great deal of detail, the historical town of Brecon dates back to when Britain Y Gaer (Cicucium) was established as a Roman cavalry base for the conquest of Wales and since then Brecon has been the source of a strong military establishment in various forms for centuries. The town was once enclosed within Norman walls, but most all were destroyed during the English Civil War.
Brecon Castle was built in 1093 by the Norman Lord Bernard de Neufmarché. Brecon Cathedral was (re)built to it's current form circa 1215. Additionally, there are several ancient churches dating back to the 1600's; most notably is St. David's of the Field, and obviously enough history to write a book (or two), see my choice; Brecon Through Time.
Brecon Castle was built in 1093 by the Norman Lord Bernard de Neufmarché. Brecon Cathedral was (re)built to it's current form circa 1215. Additionally, there are several ancient churches dating back to the 1600's; most notably is St. David's of the Field, and obviously enough history to write a book (or two), see my choice; Brecon Through Time.
Two significant geographic factors play into the town's formation; firstly, it lies at the base of Pen-y-Fan Mountain where the Brecon Beacons mountain range roll down into the Usk Valley, and secondly it sits at the confluence of the Honddu and Tarell rivers as they both flow into the larger River Usk.
The distinctive bridge crossing over the River Usk as you leave town heading west (shown above) was built in 1563. But significantly, before the bridge was built, this was was one of the few places where the River Usk could be safely forded by foot, horse, or wagon. Now much repaired and modified, the 7-span stone Brecon Bridge is a listed historical monument which is still in use today for local and commercial traffic along the B4601.
The distinctive bridge crossing over the River Usk as you leave town heading west (shown above) was built in 1563. But significantly, before the bridge was built, this was was one of the few places where the River Usk could be safely forded by foot, horse, or wagon. Now much repaired and modified, the 7-span stone Brecon Bridge is a listed historical monument which is still in use today for local and commercial traffic along the B4601.
From here I turn northwest onto a small lane which weaves throught the outskirts of town to become Cradoc Road. Above me to my right looms Brecon Castle and naturally too, the lane becomes quite steep.
Nearing the top of the hill is Brecon Cemetary. I stopped primarily because I was completely exhausted from climbing, but as it happens, I discovered the lovely little St.Mary's Church (image above).
And the hill continues as I slowly, slowly, slowly climb into the mountains of Bannau Brycheiniog; aka, the Brecon Beacons.
A National Park & National Treasure
Photo courtesy of Visit Wales
Map by Ordnance Survey © Crown copyright (town details by bike wales)
Photo courtesy of ExploreSouthWales.com
Photo courtesy of Visit Wales
References:
But I'm on ground level. My perspective is different as I snake my way through the valleys, climbing small hills and mostly looking up at the surrounding mountainsides.
I'm cycling through the villages, the small lanes, and the farms that pepper the hillsides. This is what the casual travelers often overlook as they seek those breathtaking mountain tops.
A simple fence for holding sheep, over-grown and unused, hidden by the roadside with the rolling hills of the Brecon Beacons at it's back.
A small bridge crossing over the Nant Brân River and the quiet gurgle of water.
I look for fish and spot a Kingfisher darting under the branches.
This is what I see at eye-level. I don't need an over-head shot. I don't care what it looks like from a drone-camera.
I simply want to stop my bicycle and take a photo of what I see at the very moment.
I've traveled roughly 13 miles since starting this morning. I'm just over five miles west of Brecon on Cradoc Road which runs roughly one mile north of the very busy A40 and there is practically no traffic to speak of.
As I enter the sleep community of Trallong, I spot the little orange sticker for "Cycle Across the Brecons" on a sign post and feel reassured. Thanks Sustrans.
It's hard to imagine how wet and dreary the day started. I had a sick feeling in my stomach about how the day might be, but now the weather is wonderful. And even though I still have ±30 miles yet to cycle, I feel utterly calm and relaxed. This is what cycle touring is all about.
I'm a big believer in paper maps because satellite connections are often weak or non-existant in these remote areas of Wales. Even the signposts can be confusing; as they can sometimes get knocked about when the hedges are mowed. The marker for Sennybridge is completely missing from the sign above, however the little orange stickers help me out some.
Then I'm down the hill and crossing another small river. This is the Afon Cilieni and it's a lovely spot for a late breakfast and a bit of exploration. Start the music below and scroll slowly throught the next series of images.
I am very fortunate to have nothing more to concern myself with than listening to the birds chirping about my invasion of their Eden.
The clouds slowly pass over the lush valley and a hopeless romantic on his bicycle.
Then I drop down a short hill to cross yet another river. This beauty is the River Usk (again!) and if you look at my route map, you'll see that I've been following it since I left Brecon.
Time for a wander.
Then up the hill on the opposite side and through sleepy Sennybridge. I rode down the High Street before realising I had gone the wrong way, so I turned around and made my way back to this juction which lead me directly out of town.
And then the climbing began in earnest.
This first hill wasn't terribly steep, but it seemed to go on forever (looking ahead, image above, looking back, image below).
I would cycle a hundred feet, stop, rest, and repeat.
And just as I thought I was nearing the top, the road dipped and WHAMMO! I was hit with an even steeper and longer hill.
Half way up the hill and looking back down (image above).
Looking up at what I hoped was the last part of the hill (image above). I was pushing my bike at this point and even that was exhausting.
Once at the top, the views across the valley were exceptional, but the clouds looked ominous.
And then I found this stunning farmhouse and barns. What stories lay hidden by time? What lives lived? Mothers and fathers, families, children, laughter, and cries. Tears of joy and sadness. Where are the people that remember it all? What has happened to this world?
I lean my bike against a broken wall and just look.
But the road beckons and the hills call out my name, pulling me away, pulling me, pulling me.
And so I continue to climb... calling me...
and climb... pulling me...
Until I can nolonger see hills rising above me and the road stretches out as I've not seen in a very long time.
I stop as a parade of vintage sports cars pass me, tooting their out-of-fashion horns, with arms raised, waving above the windscreens, smiling, calling out to me, thumbs-up. It's humbling and it cheers me and I am smiling and waving back. It is a fantastic day.
And just like that, they are gone, disappearing around a curve and into the trees and I am alone again on this high mountain ridge, looking up the road and wondering if the rain will come.
Soon the fence posts and paddocks and the few remaining trees give way to a series of rolling hills across a wide open plateau and I think to myself that all the previous climbs were worth it... to see this vast expanse, alone and on my bicycle.
And so I pedal on for nearly seven uninterrupted miles, not crossing another road, nor seeing another vehicle until I suddenly drop down from the plateau into a narrow valley and a four-way junction — seemingly in the middle of nowhere.
Can you spot the little orange sign pointing my way? Nor I. It's good that I've got my paper map! Not only is there no satellite service, but I've been on the road now for nearly eight hours. (I don't know too many mobile phones that can run a mapping app for that length of time?)
Then I'm down the hill again, racing with the wind as I make my way toward the community of Twynllanan.
It's nearly 5pm when I pull up to the junction at Twynllanan. (Again, no orange signs!) I've traveled just over 30 miles and I've still another ten to reach Trap.
Fortunately, the remainder of the ride (with a couple of exceptions) will be mostly downhill.
But first... it's time for look around because I'm drawn to old and abandoend buildings. Look at the stone work in this wall. It's a mashup of stone and bricks and patched together with such character. And the wooden door... what a masterpiece! What do you think this was used for?
I'm rolling again, but I'm going slowly. I haven't much energy for the few small hills and find myself pushing the bike up inclines I would have easily climbed earlier in the day. I'm tired, I know it, but I'm getting close.
Looking back (image above) the Towy River valley lies to the left whilst just ahead, a sign points the way to Trapp (image below) and I sigh with relief. I'm almost there.
The skies begin to clear as I make my way along a surprisingly lovely ridge. The roads are wet and glistening and I wonder how I missed the rain?
"Yeah! I'm talkin' to you!"
Seeing a trig point means one thing; I guess I'm at the top (image below).
And then in the distance... my first sighting of Castell Carreg Cennen.
Down and around, up to the campsite... and there it is again...
It was late in the afternoon when I arrived and I was surprised to find Trapp Fishery campground completely empty. However, the site host was exceptionally friendly and welcoming and full of questions about my adventure, my bike and all my gear.
Naturally too, I had my pick of location to set-up camp and the photo above was taken from just outside my tent.
Naturally too, I had my pick of location to set-up camp and the photo above was taken from just outside my tent.
Day Two Summary: Talybont-on-Usk to Trapp
My second day crossing Bannau Brycheiniog was epic. Perhaps, one of the most dramatic single-day rides I've ever experienced. It was hard going at times; from heavy rain to pushing my bike up some incredibly steep hills, it was often hard work and my endurance was surely tested. But the stunning scenery stunning motivated me to continue pushing on.
Click below to continue reading about my adventure...
As it turns out, I found another lovely little campsite at Trapp Fishery. I checked-in, set up my tent, and cooked myself a meal. I had traveled 41 miles and climbed nearly 3,000 feet. Simply an amazing day.
I hope you enjoyed my report and thanks for reading!
Seeya down the road... Cheers! - cm
I hope you enjoyed my report and thanks for reading!
Seeya down the road... Cheers! - cm
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