Bannau Brycheiniog by Cycle | Day Two
Talybont-on-Usk to Trapp
Very much unlike the first day, my second day started off with heavy rain. As the day progressed, the weather improved slightly as I climbed deep into the heart of Bannau Brycheiniog and made my way across the high plateau toward the village of Trapp.
DAY TWO
| NCN | 49 |  |
+ | ON ROAD |
Talybont-on-Usk to Trapp |
Date: Tuesday, June 20, 2023
Distance: 40.2 mi. / 64.70 km
Elevation: +3,484 ft / -3,477 ft
Duration: 9 hrs, 40 mins.
Distance: 40.2 mi. / 64.70 km
Elevation: +3,484 ft / -3,477 ft
Duration: 9 hrs, 40 mins.
On day two I awoke before daylight to the discouraging sound of heavy rain and wind... not what I was hoping for. On the previous day, in my late-afternoon laissez-faire mindset, I had neglected to string out the side guy lines for my tent and despite the lovely grassy field where I was camped, water had pooled under my groundpad. Urgh.
This was going to be my "big day". I had over 40 miles of mountainous climbing along unknown roads and conditions. I was not happy to think that I'd also be navigating all of that in the rain, but I fixed some breakfast, broke camp, packed the bike (wet!) and got on the road. There was no time for photos or dreamy reflection. I just had to get going.
For the first few miles from Talybont-on-Usk to Brecon the rain was intermittent. My route also happened to coincide with the Taff Trail for these first seven miles (see the small orange sticker beneath the Taff Trail sign in the image above). I had cycled this section several times before, but today I just had to keep my head down and pedal through.
From Talybont-on-Usk the route follows B4558 (again) for roughly 1.8 mi. to the village of Pencelli, where it then veers off onto a small lane winding through the countryside.
Surprisingly too, the wet made made everything silvery and shiny. The gray skies contrasted all the colours and the scenery was just lovely.
It was a completely different feeling day. The temperature was much cooler and yet when it wasn't raining the air felt thick and humid. Insects were buzzing like mad, especially as I cycled between the hedges along the narrow lanes... summertime.
At the village of Llanfrynach there is a small church which I have phototgraphed several times (image above). Maybe it's an optical illusion, but when I look at it; the tower seems wider at the top than at the bottom? I dunno, maybe it's just me.
Plus too, I generally stop here because they have the most cordial public toilets I have ever seen. They are managed purely by volunteers as well, accepting donations by a small coin slot above the bench. You would NEVER see something like this in the United States.
As I left the village, I stopped to admire the landscape. Far across to my right Pen-y-Fan loomed amidst the drifting morning clouds (image below).
Then I was back on the main road for a short .5 mi. down the hill and across the very narrow, single-lane bridge over the River Usk to re-enter the M&B Canal towpath.
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Looking south from the bridge you can see Brynich Aquaduct, one of the largest aquaducts ever built in Wales as it carries the M&B Canal over the River Usk. (This is another fascinating landmark I need to visit up close.)
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On the far side of the bridge at Brynich Lock, I entered the traffic-free towpath. From here it's just a couple of miles to the town of Brecon. Then the sun came out and it was a glorious morning. What a lucky boy.
This part of the canal starts off incredibly lush. The tree branches hang low, dripping from the rain only moments earlier. As I rolled along, my tyres softly crunched to the sound of birds chirping everywhere.
Occassionally, when the trees opened to my left, I could see the river and valley following alongside me. Pen-y-Fan still loomed in the distance clouds. It was a landscape worthy of Constable.
I passed under several small bridges, I rang my bell, but no one was about.
Approaching the town of Brecon, the path veers left and away from the canal directly, leading me past another historical landmark of note.
Illustration by Michael Blackmore
References:
From here the canal takes on a more urban look. Houses line the sides. Old factories and warehouses have been converted into modern flats and businesses.
As I approached a holiday tour boat alongside the canal I could hear a man soflty singing. The boat gently rocked and through the curtains I could see someone puttering about inside. It was quiet soundtrack to surprisingly quiet morning.
I climbed up one of the small bridges that cross the canal to take in the view. The scenes were both pastoral and urban. Peaceful and serene. A far cry from their industrial heritage.
By 9:00 am I reached the northern terminous of the Monmouthsire & Brecon Canal. There are nearby shops, cafes, pubs, and toilet facilities. From here the canal runs 35 miles south to Newport.
Note: This is also the starting location of the Taff Trail (NCN Route 8) which runs 55 miles south to Cardiff.
From here I left the canal behind and began snaking my way through the sleepy streets of the historic market town.
Brecon itself is a fascinating place to explore. The narrow lanes are full of character and interesting places to explore. Medieval churchs, Victorian architecture, ad colourful houses line the streets; many of which have been pedestrianised. There are outdoor cafes and pubs throughout the town. As for the traveling cyclist, there's even Bi-Ped Cycles nearby as well.
The historical town of Brecon dates back to when Britain Y Gaer (Cicucium) was established as a Roman cavalry base for the conquest of Wales and since then Brecon has been the source of a strong military establishment in various forms for centuries. The town was once enclosed within Norman walls, but most all were destroyed during the English Civil War.
Brecon Castle was built in 1093 by the Norman Lord Bernard de Neufmarché. Brecon Cathedral was (re)built to it's current form circa 1215. Additionally, there are several ancient churches dating back to the 1600's; most notably is St. David's of the Field, and obviously enough history to write a book (or two), see my choice; Brecon Through Time.
Brecon Castle was built in 1093 by the Norman Lord Bernard de Neufmarché. Brecon Cathedral was (re)built to it's current form circa 1215. Additionally, there are several ancient churches dating back to the 1600's; most notably is St. David's of the Field, and obviously enough history to write a book (or two), see my choice; Brecon Through Time.
Note: This is one of my favourite destinations and the town deserves its own sidebar. I have also written about riding here previously. See my reports: Back to Brecon and Brecon & Beyond.
Two significant geographic factors play into the town's formation; firstly, it lies at the base of Pen-y-Fan Mountain where the Brecon Beacons mountain range roll down into the Usk Valley, and secondly it sits at the confluence of the Honddu and Tarell rivers as they both flow into the larger River Usk.
The distinctive bridge crossing over the River Usk as you leave town heading west (shown above) was built in 1563. But significantly, before the bridge was built, this was was one of the few places where the River Usk could be safely forded by foot, horse, or wagon. Now much repaired and modified, the 7-span stone Brecon Bridge is a listed historical monument which is still in use today for local and commercial traffic along the busy B4601.
The distinctive bridge crossing over the River Usk as you leave town heading west (shown above) was built in 1563. But significantly, before the bridge was built, this was was one of the few places where the River Usk could be safely forded by foot, horse, or wagon. Now much repaired and modified, the 7-span stone Brecon Bridge is a listed historical monument which is still in use today for local and commercial traffic along the busy B4601.
On the other side of the bridge, I turned northwest onto a small quiet lane weaving through the outskirts of town to reach Cradoc Road. Above me to my right Brecon Castle hovered menacingly and naturally too, the lane becaome quite steep.
Nearing the top of the hill is Brecon Cemetary. I stopped primarily because I was completely exhausted from the climb, but as these things happen; I also discovered the lovely little St.Mary's Church (image above).
And the hill continued as I slowly, slowly, slowly made my way up Cradoc Road and into the mountains of Bannau Brycheiniog; aka, the Brecon Beacons.
A National Park & National Treasure
Photo courtesy of Visit Wales
Map by Ordnance Survey © Crown copyright (town details by bike wales)
Photo courtesy of ExploreSouthWales.com
Photo courtesy of Visit Wales
References:
Many of the photos found online and used in promotional campaigns are often dramatic overhead shots or camara angles perched high on the mountain peaks and that's fine, Bannau Brycheiniog is a spectacular series of mountain ranges. But I'm on ground level. This what the views look like for most of us. As I slowly snake my way through the valleys, climbing the hills and gazing across at the surrounding mountainsides, I see a softer, more subtle landscape.
I'm cycling through the villages, the small lanes, and the farms that pepper the hillsides. This is what many travelers often overlook as they seek those breathtaking mountain tops.
A simple fence for holding sheep, over-grown and unused, hidden by the roadside with the rolling hills of the Brecon Beacons at it's back. These are the views I seek.
A small bridge crossing over the Nant Brân River and the quiet gurgle of water.
I look for fish and spot a Kingfisher darting under the branches.
I don't need an over-head shot. I don't care what it looks like from a drone-camera. This is what I see at eye-level.
I simply want to stop my bicycle and take a photo at the very moment.
I had traveled roughly 13 miles since starting in the morning. I was just over five miles west of Brecon on Cradoc Road and roughly one mile north of the very busy A40. I had seen fewer than five cars.
As I entered the sleep community of Trallong, I spotted the little orange sticker for "Cycle Across the Brecons" on a sign post and felt reassured. Thanks Sustrans.
It was hard to imagine how wet and dreary the day had started. I had been quite worried about how the day might be, but the weather turned out to be wonderful. And even though I still had ±30 miles yet to cycle, I felt utterly calm and relaxed. This is what cycle touring is all about.
I'm a big believer in paper maps because satellite connections are often weak or non-existant in these remote areas of Wales. Even signposts can be confusing; as they are sometimes knocked about when the hedges are mowed. The marker for Sennybridge is completely missing from the sign above, however the little orange stickers helped wonderfully.
Then down the hill and across another small river. This is the Afon Cilieni and it was a lovely spot for a late breakfast and a bit of exploration.
I was very fortunate to have nothing more to concern myself with than listening to the birds chirping about my invasion of their Eden.
The clouds passed slowly over the lush valley and the hopeless romantic on his bicycle.
Then came another drop down another hill to cross yet another river. This beauty is the River Usk (again!) and if you look at my route map, you'll see that I've been following it since I left Brecon.
Time for a wander.
Then up the hill on the opposite side and through sleepy Sennybridge. I rode down the High Street before realising I had gone the wrong way, so I turned around and made my way back to this juction which lead me directly out of town.
And then the climbing began in earnest.
This first hill wasn't terribly steep, but it seemed to go on forever (looking ahead, image above, looking back, image below).
I would cycle a hundred feet, stop, rest, and repeat.
And just as I thought I was nearing the top, the road dipped and WHAMMO! I was hit with an even steeper and longer hill.
Half way up the hill and looking back down (image above).
Looking up at what I hoped was the last part of the hill (image above). I was pushing my bike at this point and even that was exhausting.
Once at the top, the views across the valley were exceptional, but the clouds looked ominous.
And then I found this stunning farmhouse and barns. What stories lay hidden by time? What lives lived? Mothers and fathers, families, children, laughter, and cries. Tears of joy and sadness. Where are the people that remember it all? What has happened to this world?
I lean my bike against a broken wall and just look.
But the road beckons and the hills call out my name, pulling me away, pulling me, pulling me.
And so I continue to climb... calling me...
and climb... pulling me...
Until I can nolonger see hills rising above me and the road stretches out as I've not seen in a very long time.
I stop as a parade of vintage sports cars pass me, tooting their out-of-fashion horns, with arms raised, waving above the windscreens, smiling, calling out to me, thumbs-up. It's humbling and it cheers me and I am smiling and waving back. It is a fantastic day.
And just like that, they are gone, disappearing around a curve and into the trees and I am alone again on this high mountain ridge, looking up the road and wondering if the rain will come.
Soon the fence posts and paddocks and the few remaining trees give way to a series of rolling hills across a wide open plateau and I think to myself that all the previous climbs were worth it... to see this vast expanse, alone and on my bicycle.
And so I pedal on for nearly seven uninterrupted miles, not crossing another road, nor seeing another vehicle until I suddenly drop down from the plateau into a narrow valley and a four-way junction — seemingly in the middle of nowhere.
Can you spot the little orange sign pointing my way? Nor I. It's good that I've got my paper map! Not only is there no satellite service, but I've been on the road now for nearly eight hours. (I don't know too many mobile phones that can run a mapping app for that length of time?)
Then I'm down the hill again, racing with the wind as I make my way toward the community of Twynllanan.
It's nearly 5pm when I pull up to the junction at Twynllanan. (Again, no orange signs!) I've traveled just over 30 miles and I've still another ten to reach Trap.
Fortunately, the remainder of the ride (with a couple of exceptions) will be mostly downhill.
But first... it's time for look around because I'm drawn to old and abandoend buildings. Look at the stone work in this wall. It's a mashup of stone and bricks and patched together with such character. And the wooden door... what a masterpiece! What do you think this was used for?
I'm rolling again, but I'm going slowly. I haven't much energy for the few small hills and find myself pushing the bike up inclines I would have easily climbed earlier in the day. I'm tired, I know it, but I'm getting close.
Looking back (image above) the Towy River valley lies to the left whilst just ahead, a sign points the way to Trapp (image below) and I sigh with relief. I'm almost there.
The skies begin to clear as I make my way along a surprisingly lovely ridge. The roads are wet and glistening and I wonder how I missed the rain?
"Yeah! I'm talkin' to you!"
Seeing a trig point means one thing; I guess I'm at the top (image below).
And then in the distance... my first sighting of Castell Carreg Cennen.
Down and around, up to the campsite... and there it is again...
It was late in the afternoon when I arrived and I was surprised to find Trapp Fishery campground completely empty. However, the site host was exceptionally friendly and welcoming and full of questions about my adventure, my bike and all my gear.
Naturally too, I had my pick of location to set-up camp and the photo above was taken from just outside my tent.
Naturally too, I had my pick of location to set-up camp and the photo above was taken from just outside my tent.
Day Two Summary: Talybont-on-Usk to Trapp
My second day crossing Bannau Brycheiniog was epic. Perhaps, one of the most dramatic single-day rides I've ever experienced. It was hard going at times; from heavy rain to pushing my bike up some incredibly steep hills, it was often hard work and my endurance was surely tested. But the stunning scenery stunning motivated me to continue pushing on.
Click below to continue reading about my adventure...
As it turns out, I found another lovely little campsite at Trapp Fishery. I checked-in, set up my tent, and cooked myself a meal. I had traveled 41 miles and climbed nearly 3,000 feet. Simply an amazing day.
I hope you enjoyed my report and thanks for reading!
Seeya down the road... Cheers! - cm
I hope you enjoyed my report and thanks for reading!
Seeya down the road... Cheers! - cm
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