I first wandered through this area on one of my early cycling adventures in Wales back in 2012. Ten years later, it seemed that I should re-visit my route with fresh eyes and a better understanding of the geography and its history.
Overview: Trefil Quarry & Dyffryn Crawnon
Date: April 03, 2022
Distance: 63.6 miles / 102.19 kilometres
Elevation: + 4,343 / - 4,346 ft
Duration: 6 hours, 26 mins.
Distance: 63.6 miles / 102.19 kilometres
Elevation: + 4,343 / - 4,346 ft
Duration: 6 hours, 26 mins.
In places, Trefil Quarry looks like another planet. The land is scarred from men and machines and now vast sections sit desolate, abandoned, left to nature for her to reclaim. The work has finished and everyone has gone. Time has stopped.
The quarry sits just on the southern border of the Brecon Beacons National Park. When looking at an aerial view in Google Maps (shown below), it's quite easy to spot. The area it covers is as large as a small town in South Wales.
The quarry sits just on the southern border of the Brecon Beacons National Park. When looking at an aerial view in Google Maps (shown below), it's quite easy to spot. The area it covers is as large as a small town in South Wales.
The quarry is well-known for its unique character; the BBC television show Merlin filmed many epsides here, as well as the feature film Wrath of the Titans in June 2011.
I'll not be following a specific cycle path on this adventure. My route covers mostly a gravel service road which runs through the center of the quarry. Once at the top, I'll then make my way down a rough tractor path into Dyffryn Crawnon. From there I'll join the Monmouthshire & Brecon Canal to make my way home.
Even the best of walkers say this is a hike for only the fittest. Some sections I'll follow are meant for 4-wheel drive vehicles or tractors; a horse would be best... and here I go a wandering, exploring.
I'll not be following a specific cycle path on this adventure. My route covers mostly a gravel service road which runs through the center of the quarry. Once at the top, I'll then make my way down a rough tractor path into Dyffryn Crawnon. From there I'll join the Monmouthshire & Brecon Canal to make my way home.
Even the best of walkers say this is a hike for only the fittest. Some sections I'll follow are meant for 4-wheel drive vehicles or tractors; a horse would be best... and here I go a wandering, exploring.
Sirhowy Valley to Trefil
To get to Trefil, I first head up NCN Route 467 through the Sirhowy Valley. The route is traffic-free for 3.5 miles north from Blackwood to Hollybush. It then enters the A4068 roadway for another couple of miles — there is little to no shoulder and it can be somewhat challenging when there is traffic.
But at the sleepy village of Pochin, NCN Route 467 leaves the main road, drops down to the valley floor and becomes traffic-free again. This is where my journal begins.
But at the sleepy village of Pochin, NCN Route 467 leaves the main road, drops down to the valley floor and becomes traffic-free again. This is where my journal begins.
Typical of all the Valleys, this was once just farmland, then the coal mines opened during the 18th and 19th centuries. Houses started popping up, then eventually, a few small towns.
The area prospered for nearly 200 years, but the coal mines left for good 20-30 years ago and the once bustling towns are now skeletons of their previous glory. A few farms remain; quiet, green, beligerent.
Despite the deprivation caused by the coal mines and steel industries closing, the high unemployment, and struggling economy — housing developments are being built up and down the valleys.
On the opposite hillside overlooking the valley floor, a new housing estate sits on a small plateau cut into the mountain. Jammed together without individual style or any consideration for their surroundings, they look like a scab on the countryside.
On the opposite hillside overlooking the valley floor, a new housing estate sits on a small plateau cut into the mountain. Jammed together without individual style or any consideration for their surroundings, they look like a scab on the countryside.
This section of the cycle path runs along the valley floor for less than a mile before climbing up to the village of Georgetown. NCN Route 467 becomes a shared-use path as it merges alongside the A4068 up to Tredegar. It's wide and safe for a couple of miles, but completely uninteresting.
I prefer cutting through on the Georgetown High Street, which is wide and has very little traffic. (I should take some photos...) I paused on the bridge overlooking the Sirhowy Valley (photo below). I feel quite lucky to call this valley home.
I prefer cutting through on the Georgetown High Street, which is wide and has very little traffic. (I should take some photos...) I paused on the bridge overlooking the Sirhowy Valley (photo below). I feel quite lucky to call this valley home.
I weaved my way through the outskirts of Tredegar to my first stop at the Sirhowy Ironworks. I had read about this site online and discovered that this was one of the oldest ironworks in Wales (the first being Cyfartha Ironworks in Merthyr Tydfil, c.1767), so I made a point of visiting it today.
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| Image: © Amgueddfa Cymru - National Museum Wales |
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| photo courtesy of Dalex41 & Tredegar.co.uk |
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| photo © CR Musson (1992), courtesy of coflein.gov.uk |
For more information, see: Sirhowy Ironworks / Blaenau Gwent, Grace's Guide To British Industrial History, Great Archaeological Sites in Blaenau Gwent, and coflein.gov.uk, Sirhowy Ironworks
Leaving the ironworks, I got back on the road and continued north through Tredegar and the small community of Dukestown. I then entered traffic-free NCN Route 46 heading west across the Heads of the Valley.
I cycled approximately half a mile, exited the path at Nantybwch and turned north onto Trevil Road. Then after another half mile, everything got very quiet.
... now I'm happy.
These landscapes speak to me. I feel at home in the open vastness.
I stop and listen. A gentle wind blows. I give a whistle and a horse across the hillside lifts her head, ears perked.
Of course, the derelict, the crumbling down, the decrepit, the dilapidated, the rickety, the shabby, and the ram-shackle — all hold a special place in my heart.
Coming into the small village of Trefil, I feel as if I'm stepping back in time. An old Ford Cortina sits deep in the grass, tyres flat, paint peeling, parked years ago against a shed, still loved by someone.
Trefil is an interesting place. Sitting at an elevation of 409 metres (1,342 ft) above sea level, the Ordnance Survey recognise Trefil as the highest village in Wales. There is but a single road (a cul-de-sac) into the village. The nearest bus station is two miles south in Nantybwch, whilst the nearest train service is over three miles southwest in the town of Rhymney. The village sits in a vast, open, and desolate place.
An old man walks past, smiles and asks if I'm heading up to the caves. I tell him no, that I'm just gonna explore the quarry some. "It's some lovely country up there. I'm goin' in this pub... gonna spend all day there", he replies. And with a chuckle he pats my shoulder and steps across the road.
For a moment I think that I should join him. I imagine that he has some wonderful stories. The old pub would probably have several folks that would love to reminisce about the past. But I should carry on, perhaps another time.
For a moment I think that I should join him. I imagine that he has some wonderful stories. The old pub would probably have several folks that would love to reminisce about the past. But I should carry on, perhaps another time.
I've said it before, but I'll reiterate myself; "Wales does an excellent job of installing information boards at places of significant historical record." This one caught me by surprise... I had no idea.
The Bryn Oer Tramway was built in 1814 under under an Act of Parliament to support the Brecknock and Abergavenny Canal. The tramway consisted of a horse-drawn plate-railway that served the Bryn Oer collieries and the limestone quarries at Trefil. The tramway ran 8 miles (13 km) in length, dropping 1,080 ft (330 m) along its route to the canal at Talybont-on-Usk.
The Bryn Oer Tramway was built in 1814 under under an Act of Parliament to support the Brecknock and Abergavenny Canal. The tramway consisted of a horse-drawn plate-railway that served the Bryn Oer collieries and the limestone quarries at Trefil. The tramway ran 8 miles (13 km) in length, dropping 1,080 ft (330 m) along its route to the canal at Talybont-on-Usk.
Note: You can read more at: Wikipedia / Bryn Oer Tramway (also known as the Brinore Tramroad) and Powys County / Brinore Tramroad.
Trefil Quarry
Trefil is best known for its limestone quarry – which is actually three seperate quarries. The one directly north of the village (just past these gates shown above) is still in operation, whilst the other two further northwest, have been closed for years. On weekdays the gates are open and I presume they are working the quarry, but today, I only saw walkers and a few fellas on mountain bikes.
Rising to east and west of the quarry is open moorland, the western slopes are known as Trefil Ddu, whilst those to the east are Trefil Las. Off to my left sits Dukes Table, but I couldn't spot it from the road.
After cycling roughly two miles and climbing over a couple of hundred feet from the entrance, I then entered what I presume to be the beginning of the second quarry.
The road is somewhat paved. The tarmac; however, is cracked and broken in places, large potholes are often filled with water. The rest is mostly gravel. I am surrounded on both sides by open moorland as far as I can see.
As I paused to look around, I heard a faint buzzing. I couldn't make out what it was or from where it was coming... until from out of the clouds a biplane slowly appeared, wobbling and weaving in the wind. Amazing.
I stood and watched the little plane. It seemed to go on and on and I imagined the pilot feeling perfectly alone and blissful sailing through the air.
Now is a good time to share a couple of Google Earth shots. I'm about mid-way along the road stretching across the middle of the image below.
Now is a good time to share a couple of Google Earth shots. I'm about mid-way along the road stretching across the middle of the image below.
Soon after that strange and fantastic sighting, I get my first glimpse of Dyffryn Crawnon.
The landscape becomes much more dramatic and sculpted as I enter the quarry.
How often does one have the opportunity to cycle through such a landscape? I expect to hear the rumbling of massive earth moving equipment; diggers, bulldozers, massive trucks hauling loads of rock... but it's eerily quiet.
Just after climbing out of the canyon, there's this wonderful viewpoint and landmark. The plaque reads; "One of the most beautiful places in the world"... Unfortunately, I cannot find any further information on the Naughty Stone or Elizabeth Francis Hopkins.
The view down Dyffryn Crawnon is stunning. My plan is to explore a bit further ahead, but then return to cycle down into the valley.
I continue on, cycling over bits of broken concrete like little islands in a sea of coarse gravel.
Soon the little concrete islands give way to just gravel and the incline becomes much steeper.
I climb for another half-mile and stop. I've gone about as far as I can with these tyres. The gravel is too large and the gradient too steep. Plus, I'm starting to head away from the valley. I turn around.
Above me and to my left, several dismantled buildings protrude from the crest of the hill. I suppose that is the third quarry, which had I continued, I would have reached from this rocky road. But that is for another day, another adventure.
Heading back is a relief. I'm ready to explore down into the valley.
Riding back through the canyon is again — very impressive.
I find the landscape equally breathtaking and soothing in its desolation.
Dyffryn Crawnon
Then I am back to the fork in the road I had passed earlier in the day. I am roughly two miles northwest of the gated entrance to the 'quarry' at Trefil. From here I'll begin the next part of my adventure.
Some folks would think that they had seen enough by this point. They'd stay on the main road and just head back home. It's been a fantastic adventure so far. I've cycled just over 20 miles, but the thought of exploring more... down into the lush Dyffryn Crawnon — excites me.
To give a better understanding of my location, I've included the Google Map screenshot above with an indication of where I turned around (red arrow) and where I am now (red circle). The distance between these two markers is roughly 2 miles.
When I came through earlier, I completely missed the Aneurin Bevan Heritage Trail marker.
From the look of it ahead, the Aneurin Bevan Heritage Trail continues straight up across the moors. Somewhere near the summit of the hill (Mynydd Llangynidr) is the legendary Chartist Cave. Another adventure, another day. I'll be turning left and continuing down into the valley.
Just look at the views. A solitary cow seems perfectly content, standing far away from the the heard. It is a good day.
I've definately moved onto terrain better suited for a mountain bike, 4-wheel drive, or a horse!
I go slowly and take my time. If I need to get off the bike and walk a bit, I do.
I also like to stop on occasion to just look around. I try to remind myself to look back; it can be surprising to see from where you came.
The path then became a series of short steep sections followed by mild, but brief levels. It was definitely mountain bike territory.
Just look at the size of the rocks in the road. In the states we call those "baby heads".
Just look at the size of the rocks in the road. In the states we call those "baby heads".
Then I came to a lovely little waterfall at a turn in the road. It's pretty much the eye-catcher at this point; however, just opposite is a stunning view down the gorge (photo below).
It's not often that I take a vertically orientated photo, but it was the only way I could capture the view. Even more rare for me is to crop an image. I just couldn't help myself below...
Then the path got very steep; too steep to ride, so I walked a fair bit. Also of note, this valley is so narrow and deep, that for the remaining part of this descent, I lost my GPS signal.
Note: As I was preparing this report, I ran across several links to Dyffryn Crawnon Waterfalls. I must be above the waterfalls in the photo above. This certainly makes the area worth a re-visit!
I dropped over 600 feet in a mile.
Avoiding "babyheads" and finding the right line down the road was key. (Having a 'dropper' seat post would have been very helpful too!) Some sections were at a 20% gradient.
As I neared the bottom, the road began to level out significantly. I could see that the landowners had been working on the road, improving the grade and reducing the amount of washout.
What a beautiful farm. The photo above reminds me of Montana on a much smaller scale.
Looking back and looking ahead.
And then I was down onto the valley floor, making my way past the lovely Pyrgad farm.
Remember what I said about liking the decrepid and run-down? Well, I absolutely adore this house. My mind races with the idea of the stories it must hold.
And now I have it... I'm naming this the Treehouse of Dyffryn Crawnon.
Looking back from here, you can see the mountains encircle the top of the valley (photo above).
Coming up alongside the Afon Crawnon River (photo below), looking little more than a creek. Who could ask for better cycling?
Coming up alongside the Afon Crawnon River (photo below), looking little more than a creek. Who could ask for better cycling?
It's obvious to say that the hillsides are lovely.
The village hall in the community of Wern looks unused, but well-kept. Like much of Wales, people hold out hope that its time of prosperity will one day return.
The community itself is very small, if there is a centre — this must be it. (I'm using the phonebox and church as clues?)
I stopped to take a photo of the church (photo above), which has been converted into a private residence, but unfortunately, a telephone pole sits directly in front of the building and despite trying several different angles, I just couldn't get anything I was happy with.
However, when I turned around I found this cottage (photo below). Remember what I said about looking behind you? Apparently too, it's a holiday cottage you can rent. Here's a link I found on Google Maps: The Bwthyn. A perfect location for a "Thoreau" escape.
However, when I turned around I found this cottage (photo below). Remember what I said about looking behind you? Apparently too, it's a holiday cottage you can rent. Here's a link I found on Google Maps: The Bwthyn. A perfect location for a "Thoreau" escape.
And on I rode... taking my time, enjoying the scenery.
In Wales, the photographs take themselves.
By now you should know, that this place stopped me in my tracks! It facinates me that someone lives here.
Without much notice, the road slowly starts to climb along the eastern hillside. The farms get a little bit more gentrified, and the views open up so that you can see further down the valley.
The tree over-hanging the road in the image above caught my eye, so I stopped to get a photograph. As I looked at the farmhouse a little closer, I discovered Pant Y Paerau. This stunning re-purposed farm is the location of a cycle touring business. How cool!
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| screenshot courtesy of Compagnons Cycling Collective |
The lane continues weaving along the hillside, the views continue to look wonderful. It's quiet. I haven't seen a car for hours.
Then the houses start to accumulate and I can sense that I'm entering a village... heading back into the busy world.
A pretty little church catches my eye (Church of St. Cynidr & St. Mary) as I pass through the village of Llangynidr. The road gets a little steeper and I'm getting a little tired, so it's hard to slow down.
From here I got on the Monmouthshire & Brecon Canal to head south toward Pontypool. I had only cycled about 26 miles, but it had been a long day and I was pretty beat. I still had another 40 miles to reach home, but thankfully, I had cycled (and walked) the difficult parts. The rest should be easy.
Summary - Trefil Quarry & Dyffryn Crawnon
It had been a fantastic day. I took over 250 photographs — 130 of which made it into this report! The landscapes I witnessed were so diverse, from the vast open moors along Trefil Quarry to the thick and lush Dyffryn Crawnon.
I didn't take any photos on my ride along the Monmouthshire & Brecon Canal simply because I've photographed it so many times previously (for example: Monmouthshire & Brecon Canal, pt 4.), but mostly because I was just too tired.
I didn't take any photos on my ride along the Monmouthshire & Brecon Canal simply because I've photographed it so many times previously (for example: Monmouthshire & Brecon Canal, pt 4.), but mostly because I was just too tired.
This wasn't my longest ride, but looking back over all my rides for 2022, this was certainly one of the most unique. There are several areas I'd like to re-visit (especially the Bryn Oer Tramway), but that's part of what makes cycling in Wales so interesting... there's always more to see.
I hope you enjoyed my report and thanks for reading!
Seeya down the road... Cheers! - cm
I hope you enjoyed my report and thanks for reading!
Seeya down the road... Cheers! - cm
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