Llangorse Lake Classic

From high up on Llangynidr Commons, this lake shines like a silver coin nestled between Bannau Brycheiniog and the Black Mountains. Join me as I cycle though the stunning Welsh mountains to visit this unique site of scientific interest (SSI).
UPDATED!
Overview: Llangorse Lake Classic
Date: June 15, 2018
Distance: 111.4 mi / 179.28 km
Elevation: + 6492 / - 6491 ft
Duration: 12 hours : 20 mins.
Despite its small size, this lake is special. Located in the county Powys in northern Bannau Brycheiniog, the lake is famous for watersports, particularly coarse fishing. At just over a mile in length, it is a protected area and a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI), for it has a rich and well-documented history.

The lake is commonly referenced in Welsh literature and folkore legends surround it's mysterious past. Adding to it's enigmatic aura is the only example of a prehistoric crannog found in Wales. I've been to the lake several times and on every visit I found the skies dark and grey and ominous looking. Perhaps it's this lighting condition that makes this special place mysterious to me?
2023 UPDATE: This is an updated version of a previously posted Ride Report. As part of my ongoing redesign of this website, each feature from "Rides to Remember" will be re-formatted to accomodate the new larger page layout. All of the photographs have been re-edited and when needed, the text has been re-edited for context and clarity.
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ROUTE COLOUR KEY:  Traffic-free  Quiet Road  Shared Use  Steep Hill
My adventure had two parts; the first half heading north was mostly sunny and warm as I rode up toward Brecon (roughly 38 miles) where I turned east and south for the second half coming back to Llangorse Lake. It then became dark and cloudy and the skies looked as if a storm was going to unleash it's fury on me for the remainder of the day.
Oakdale to Brynmawr
I've cycled NCN Route 465 from Llanhilleth to Brynmawr many times and I chose to not take any photographs along the way. Getting to Llangorse Lake was my primary objective for this adventure. However, once I got to Brynmawr, as I cycled out toward Llangattock Escarpment — I couldn't resist taking out my camera.
Hafod Farm Road & Llangattock Escarpment
After riding up to Brynmawr, my first scenic vista of the day was Clydach Gorge. Heading out Hafod Farm Road and looking across the Heads of the Valley, you can clearly see how the rail line was cut into the side of the mountain.
Further down you can also make out the open scars of a quarry sitting beneath the community of Llanelly Hill (above). It's roughly five miles to the end of this road... and there's much more to see.
Generally, you'll find quite a few cyclists along this stretch because it's absolutely flat, quiet, and the views are stunning. I had it all to myself today... providing yet another reason to love cycle touring on a weekday. The Black Mountains stretch along the horizon (above).
As I continue, Hafod Farm Road turns north along the hillside and begins to snake under a series of limestone cliffs high above the Usk Valley. This is the Llangattock Escarpment. If you look closely, you can spot the Lonely Shepherd along the left horizon above. (You can also read about my 2017 adventure with the Kingfishers to see this unusual monument up close: The Lonely Shepherd.)
Ahead of me to the north, are the Brecon Beacons (Bannau Brycheiniog). To my right are the Black Mountains. There is so much to see and explore in this lovely little country... all it takes is getting out.
The morning was blustery, but warm. Langorse Lake is miles (and hours) ahead of me. I stopped often to take pictures; which always extends my time, but I didn't't worry about it too much. This is how I wanted to spend the day.
Nearing the end, the road turns abruptly downhill, dropping nearly 1,000 feet in less than two miles to the village of Llangattock. Check yer brakes kids... one section in particular, is at an eye-popping -22% grade!
I stopped along a particularly steep section to take this shot of Llangattock Escarpment. I think this view gives you a good idea of it's size (below).
It's hard to believe, but they did it... I don't know how or why, but yes, there are some houses clinging along the sides of this steep valley. Look quickly or you'll miss 'em!
Then I was down and cycling through a thick canopy of trees; palms sweaty and breathing hard. It's a dramatic change in both elevation and scenery as you pass from high clear mountaintop into deep dark woods.
Nestled at the base of the hillside, this lovely farm offers another good view of the escarpement. I was cycling up there just a few moments ago.
Note: To see some additional photos of Hafod Farm Road and Llangattock Escarpement, be sure to check out part two of my ride from 2017: Mad Explore & Discovery.
Soon I crossed a small bridge over a particularly scenic section of the Monmouthshire & Brecon Canal — leading into the village of Llangattock itself.
Passing through the village of Llangattock with little fanfare, I continued northwest on Cwm Crawnon Road. This lovely road snakes alongside the M&B Canal and River Usk for the next 12 miles. (I only took a few simple shots along this section which is a disservice to the report!)
Note: You can read more about Cwm Crawnon Road in my report from 2018; Grosmont & Skenfrith Epic, pt 1.
Langorse Lake
After going under the A40 dual carriageway near Brecon, I cycled another .25 mi. to where I turned right onto yet another unnamed road. I then headed east toward the village of Llanfihangel Tal-y-llyn (roughly 2 mi.). Once in the very small village the main road bears left (well-marked) and continues east toward Llangorse. The turn off to the lake is a little over 1.5 mi. further and just before you reach the village of Llangorse (also well-marked).
Inside the lake area there's a caravan park and a visitor centre plus some sort of adventure camp for kids, but on this day, not much was happening. Despite finding cars in the car park, I didn't see anyone walking about.
The day had turned decidedly grey; however, it is summer. It is warm. Why aren't kids running around? Why aren't boats out on the lake? Why aren't fishermen fishing? Where is everybody? Why am I standing alone at this magical place?
Along the northern edge of the lake is a manmade island called a "crannog". Stting atop the island is an early iron age wooden deweling (reconstructed) of which little is known. They have theories and vague notions on its original purpose based upon an assortment of items dug up in the vicinity, but after so long and having passed through so many cultures; it's speculation at best. Of course, this too adds character to this mysterious lake.
Far on the opposite side of the lake, sitting on a slight rise is Blaenllynfi Castle (above). Ruinous, its mostly a pile of rocks now set along the edge of the woods and it be can't seen from here. I would surmise that its position in relation to the lake was important when constructed in the early part of the 13th century.

We'll never know for sure; however, it's not so hard to envision and the 18th century etching shows how the castle then appeared, overlooking the lake (below).
Artist: Basire, James, 1730-1802, Collection: National Library of Wales
It's quiet and calm. The wildlife seem at ease. I wander about taking photos. Water laps against the piers. The ducks quack mildly annoyed. I sit and have my lunch.
Surprisingly then, just as the skies are getting darker and rain seems imminent, out scoot a couple of boats loaded with kids. As I turn to leave the docks to begin to make my way home, I laugh to myself; "the Welsh never shy away from the rain".

I cycled back through the car park and made my way along the narrow road to the entrance. An old man with a long grey beard pulled up beside me in a old green pickup. The worn leaf springs squeaking and the clutch scraping the floorboard as he slowed. With his head and arm hanging out the window, he slowly waved his hand and said with a soft smile; "there's some horses coming your way" and rolled on by. I threw up my hand and waved back, "thanks" and thought to myself; "how cool... I bet he's lived here all his life."
Then as the old man in his truck disappeared around the bend, I began to hear the distinct clippity-clop of horse hooves. Expecting riders on horseback, I waited by the hedge for them to pass, but a moment later and much to my surprise, I was greeted by over 20 horses! No riders, just horses of all shapes and sizes - casually strolling down the lane. They were perfectly calm and relaxed. None seem to be alarmed by me or my bicycle. They came over in small groups of two or three and poked their noses toward me, sniffing my jacket and saddle bag, slowly looking me over. I spoke to them, patted their necks. I rubbed their brows and as one group walked off, another group would approach me. It was if they all wanted to stop and say hello... each waiting in turn. They were as friendly to me as if we had known each other all our lives. I was so surprised by their casual demeanor and touched by their gentleness that I forgot about my camera. They had just about left when I remembered and I got one quick photo before they too disappeared around the bend (above).
Looking back across the lake, I wonder; "where will I go now?..."
"What will I see next?"
and I realise... I haven't a clue.
This is my journey. I'm just finding stories within stories.
Summary - Llangorse Lake Classic
Perhaps one of my more romantic reports... Wales has that effect on me. But too, this was a long day, with many miles and even though I am home now and reflecting back, I can remember clearly the emotions I felt on the day.

The last photo in this report is of Tretower Court & Castle, which I've cycled past several times. I hope to make a proper visit there some time during the coming year.

This was my second ride to Llangorse Lake and I wanted to convey the mystery I feel whilst visiting. As with many places in this fascinating country, I sense there is so much lost to time. Stories and events we'll never know.
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ROUTE COLOUR KEY:  Traffic-free  Quiet Road  Shared Use  Steep Hill
About the update: I've been working on both my new reports and older/pre-2022 ride preports. The text has been gently massaged to portray a less theatrical feel, whilst the images included were originally shot using a phone camera at a ridiculously wide 16:9 aspect ratio (what was I thinking?). The resolution isn't good, but I've re-cropped them to a more practical 4:3 (monitor) aspect ratio.

I hope you've enjoyed my re-telling of this wonderful adventure. Thanks for visiting.

Cheers! - muse kidd 
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