A Spring Ritual to the Seaside for a Wandering Cyclist
More than a lovely beach, this landmark by the sea is full of funky shops and restaurants, a pleasure park, and a wonderful assortment of interesting people and places to photograph. Of course, cycling there and back is the most fun!
Overview: Barry Island Blast v.2
Date: May 19, 2023
Distance: 80.1 mi / 128.91 km
Elevation: +3,904 ft / -3,923 ft
Duration: 11 hrs: 30 mins
Distance: 80.1 mi / 128.91 km
Elevation: +3,904 ft / -3,923 ft
Duration: 11 hrs: 30 mins
My wife first introduced this seaside resort to me nearly 15 years ago and I immediately fell in love with it's eccentric Welsh character. Now I find myself cycling out here just to breathe the fresh air and soak up the atmosphere.
Most folks will know this as the backdrop to the hit BBC television show, Gavin & Stacey, however, you really must visit this lovely little beach to fully appreciate its charm. The weekends can be rather busy because of it's close proximity to Cardiff, but during the week; it's nearly empty and wonderful (as shown in the photo above).
Join me today as I cycle down to the coast and make my way west — just a short distance along the coast to the seaside resort of Barry Island.
Most folks will know this as the backdrop to the hit BBC television show, Gavin & Stacey, however, you really must visit this lovely little beach to fully appreciate its charm. The weekends can be rather busy because of it's close proximity to Cardiff, but during the week; it's nearly empty and wonderful (as shown in the photo above).
Join me today as I cycle down to the coast and make my way west — just a short distance along the coast to the seaside resort of Barry Island.
Hailey Parc & Bute Parc
Getting to Barry Island is a simple ride that starts for me heading west along NCN Route 47 to Quakers Yard. From there, I join NCN Route 8 (the Taff Trail) for the remainder of the way to Cardiff Bay. It's mostly down hill all the way and it's a ride I've made many times.
After roughly 20 miles, the route pulls alongside the River Taf and enters Hailey Parc just below the village of Tongwynlais. This is where I began my documentation.
After roughly 20 miles, the route pulls alongside the River Taf and enters Hailey Parc just below the village of Tongwynlais. This is where I began my documentation.
The main route is wide and paved, but off to its left is a finely-packed gravel path which is slightly raised and closer to the river. As you can see above, there are many smaller footpaths meandering throughout the park.
Back on the main paved route, the path does get surprisingly close to the river at times and as you can see above, it has actually breached its banks in places!
You'd be hard pressed to notice the move from Hailey Parc into Bute Parc, but the path does get a bit wider, the trees get taller, and the overall feel seems a bit more "grand".
Often crowed with students, joggers, and dog-walkers, today it's oddly quiet? I find this section to be one of the prettiest of the entire Taff Trail.
The Taff Trail continues across the bridge (shown above), but I'm going to wander around Bute Parc a bit more... it's just so lush and green today.
This small canal was once used to ferry goods and people between the river and Cardiff Castle. Today, it's just a lovely quiet and unused waterway to cycle along.
Time to stop for a self-indulgent snap of my bike... (as ya do), then I'm off to Cardiff Bay where I'll cross the barrage to Penarth and begin my journey west along the coast.
Penarth & Sully Island
There is a small circular route which goes around Cardiff Bay (the Cardiff Bay Trail) which is actually a part of the much larger NCN Route 4. It doesn't matter which direction you choose, they both lead to Penarth. I personally prefer crossing the barrage because the views are just so wide and sweeping.
I seem to always photograph this massive boat lift... I think it's the small boy love of big machines.
NCN Route 88 starts at the base of this clever serpentine designed to help pedestrians and cyclists climb the big hill up to Penarth (image above). Then once past the High Street, the route becomes traffic-free for the next mile or so leaving town.
When Sustrans was planning this section of NCN Route 88, the local residents put up quite a stink about it. They thought it would bring a criminal element to the village — motorbikes racing through the neighbourhood or some such nonsense. Fortunately, none of that has transpired.
However, I will say that the pedestrians you meet along this section are unusually grumpy. I've found that when I ring my bell to let folks know I'm approaching (a polite gesture, I think), folks just turn around and scowl at ya. It's as if there is still some lingering resentment toward cyclists? I dunno, maybe it's just me?
However, I will say that the pedestrians you meet along this section are unusually grumpy. I've found that when I ring my bell to let folks know I'm approaching (a polite gesture, I think), folks just turn around and scowl at ya. It's as if there is still some lingering resentment toward cyclists? I dunno, maybe it's just me?
Leaving the traffic-free path, the route then merges onto the Lavernock Road for the next couple of miles. It is a difficult ride in places because the road is very busy and the "shared-use" path stops and starts without warning. At times you are forced onto the main roadway, which I try to avoid.
I generally take the first exit available and turn down toward Swanbridge to get away from the busy traffic. Plus, it's always nice to see Sully Island (images above and below).
Today there's not much on Sully Island, but it has quite a bit of history. Now it's just a pretty little place just off the beach.
At low tide, you can walk to the island. I've not done it, but I'm tempted (above). A couple have a romantic moment along the shore (below).
Barry Docks & Barry Island
From Swanbridge to Barry Docks, NCN Route 88 is awkward and difficult to navigate for roughly four miles. It is not at all scenic and I neglected to take many photos. However, this entire area is changing dramatically which I should document.
Case in point: you would not have recognized this place 10 years ago, but Barry Docks is being now being regenerated into commercial and urban housing estates (images above and below).
I then snaked my way around from Barry Docks to Barry Island (completely avoiding the town of Barry and losing track of NCN Route 88.) However, there are many new "shared-use" paths which makes the ride very easy and safe, despite the amount of traffic and new road crossings.
I don't photograph architecture often and to be honest, I'm not very good at it. But Barry Island is fabulous and deserves more attention.
In someways, this little resort reminds me of Coney Island in New York, but Barry Island is much more innocent and quaint (and much, much cleaner!)
This was not my first attempt to document the resort, in fact. I shot many more photos back in 2018. (See my report; Barry's Island Blast [sic].) Not that I need an excuse, but I want to return to spend more time taking better photographs.
Vale of Glamorgan to Pontypridd
Then it was time to leave and just as I began weaving my way back through the Vale of Glamorgan, my camera battery died. Urgh. I cycled through Cold Knap and out toward Bonvilston before deciding to use the camera on my phone.
So despite the reduced quality, the remaining shots were taken without much planning and somewhat randomly. Now I have another reason to return!
It's a bit more hilly but the views across the vale are stunning.
For a good portion of the route there is a "shared-use" path which was included when they rebuilt the main road. I'm guessing that it was part of the Active Travel Act and it's wonderful! (What number will this route have? It was unmarked when I came through.)
Eventually, after cycling along several quiet roads through Miskin and Pontyclun, I merged onto NCN Route 4 which lead me back through Church Village and onto Pontypridd.
I stopped briefly in Ynysangharad War Memorial Park in Pontypridd for a late snack and then headed north up the Taff Trail (NCN Route 8).
A couple of quick shots along the River Taff as I make my way toward Abercycon (above and below). They've been doing some significant work on the path and the views are lovely.
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Finally, I hopped onto NCN Route 47 at Quakers Yard and made my way across the valley to Hengoed, Blackwood, and then Oakdale. Easy-peazy, my day was done.
Summary - Barry Island Blast v.2
This is a great ride and one that deserves more attention. I've cycled it enough now to have worked out some of the minor details, especially leaving Barry through Cold Knap, then heading north to Miskin, Pontyclun, and up to Talbot Green.
It is very surprising that so much of this route is traffic-free. And aside from the difficulties between Lavernock and Barry Docks, the roads between Bovilston junction and Pontyclun are wonderfully quiet.
I've taken notes on several areas which need further documenting and I'm hoping to go back again in the early Spring of 2024. Eventually, this route will be a part of my Routes to Ride section, so it's on my priority list. Be sure to check back!
It is very surprising that so much of this route is traffic-free. And aside from the difficulties between Lavernock and Barry Docks, the roads between Bovilston junction and Pontyclun are wonderfully quiet.
I've taken notes on several areas which need further documenting and I'm hoping to go back again in the early Spring of 2024. Eventually, this route will be a part of my Routes to Ride section, so it's on my priority list. Be sure to check back!
The weather was mostly sunny with fantastic temperatures hovering around 18°c. I'm still surprised at how few people I saw out — especially at Barry Island. It was a stunning Friday afternoon.
It was too bad about my camera battery, but Barry ain't going anywhere and I should be able to get some good shots when I go back. So we shall see.
I hope you enjoyed this little write-up and as always, thanks for spending your time with me & Bike Wales.
Cheers! - muse kidd
It was too bad about my camera battery, but Barry ain't going anywhere and I should be able to get some good shots when I go back. So we shall see.
I hope you enjoyed this little write-up and as always, thanks for spending your time with me & Bike Wales.
Cheers! - muse kidd
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