St. Brides
& The West Usk Lighthouse
Exploring the Gwent Levels: Part 1
It was a stunning Spring day with near-perfect temperatures as I left home and cycled down the valley to Newport. From there, I began the first in my series of exploring and documenting distinctive places along the coastline of the Gwent Levels.
OVERVIEW
St. Brides & the West Usk Lighthouse
Date: Tue. May 13, 2025
Distance: 52.7 mi. / 84.81 km
Elevation: +1,767 ft / -1,721 ft
Duration: 8 hrs, 41 mins.
Last year I wrote a modest report on a cycling adventure I made to the Newport Wetlands & Seawall. This short trip however, inspired me to make a much more in-depth study of the Gwent Levels.

Upon my return home, I began investigating and stumbled upon the Living Levels website where I discovered a wealth of historical information, including reports of on-going activities and a wide array of places to visit — all of which further excited me to explore and document this unique area.

My primary goal for this day was to visit St. Brides and wander along the seawall to the West Usk Lighthouse located about a mile north of the Lighthouse Inn car park. Additionally, I wanted to see the Centurian scuplture as noted in the Living Levels sculpture trail.

This is my first report of a series of five, in which I plan to document my experiences exploring this fascinating and beautiful landscape over the summer.
The Gwent Levels Cycling Project
Exploring the Western Coastline of the Severn Estuary
As a rough outline of this project, I plan to visit and document five unique sites along the Gwent Levels by bicycle. However, I'm also allowing for new discoveries to work their way into the overall project, so this may change as I progress. The proposed five reports will be:
  1. St. Brides & the West Usk Lighthouse
  2. Magor Marsh & Summerleaze
  3. Goldcliff Lagoons
  4. Port Skewett & Sudbrook
  5. Parc Tredelerch
The results of these five explorations will then be compliled into an overview, in which I will create a number(?) of individual routes to guide cyclists along the Gwent Levels by bicycle.

Additionally, I will be utilizing as much of the National Cycling Network as possible with all of the final routes — starting from and returning to Newport. At this point, I will then assess what additional photographs (if any?) need to be taken to supplement the route(s).

I've included a small map below as an example of my idea. It's roughly 10 miles from the Newport Train Station to St. Brides — following NCN Route(s) 4 & 88 to Hawes Lane and then Lighthouse Road to St. Brides.
There will be notable sights along the route(s) which I plan to include with the final version(s), for example; the Westgate Hotel, Newport Riverfront, the Newport Transporter Bridge, and Tredegar House can all be found along the map shown above.
Resources:
Having now explained all of my grand ideas, it's finally time to get this report started!
Oakdale to St. Brides
I decided that I would only be taking photographs of St. Brides itself and NOT my rides to and from this destination. I will work out the details of the final routes at a later date, at which time I will then sort out the images as I've explained in the sidebar above.
I began my day cycling south from Oakdale — primarily following NCN Route 47 through Sirhowy Parc and along the Monmouthshire & Brecon Canal to 14 Locks. I then joined the NCN Route 47/4 "connector" which runs between High Cross and Bassaleg.
Note: The map shown above covers my entire day of cycling from Oakdale to St. Brides and back.
I followed NCN Route 4 from Bassaleg south to Tredegar House where I then cycled along a shared-use path (unnumbered) out to the Parc Golf Club. Just past the golf course I joined NCN Route 88 west to Marshfield. I turned south again on Marshfield Road/Broadway and continued to Lighhouse Road. I followed Lighthouse Road east for roughly 2.mi. to St. Brides Village Hall.
Lighthouse Inn to West Usk Lighthouse
It's a short distance from the entrance at Lighthouse Road down to the seawall by the Lighthouse Inn car park. I was quite shocked and saddened to find the Lighthouse Inn in such a state. It's a wonderful location and I don't understand why it's not in business?

There's a large gated community of static caravans behind the inn as well. It looks like a brilliant business opportunity to me. I can easily envision a 1st floor patio with tables and umbrellas overlooking the beach. I will be keeping an eye out on this one!
One of the things I found most exciting from the Living Levels website was a link to a "sculpture trail". However, I found that it's not exactly a trail, per se, but simply a list of individual sculptures located at interesting places along the Gwent Levels.

I thought to myself; "There's an opportunity!". But first, I needed to visit each of the sculptures... and that's how this project began!

My thought was that I could formulate a route (or a series of routes) that people could cycle to see not only the sculptures, but also visit interesting places along the way.
The Centurion
Living Levels Sculpture Trail
In 2020, the Living Levels Landscape Partnership commissioned a series of sculptures for installation along the Gwent Levels. The sculptures feature larger than life-size figures each representing significant aspects of the Levels and it's history.
The Centurian at St. Brides
The Centurian sculpture was created to celebrate ordinary Roman soldiers who began the creation of the Levels nearly 2000 years ago. Based in Caerleon, the soldiers were employed to create rudimentary defences against the tides found in the wild marshland along the River Severn. To help drain the Levels and provide year-round grazing for livestock, long ditches (reens) were dug and a massive sea-wall was built to re-direct the waters.

After the Romans left this part of Britain in the 5th century, the sea defences slowly collapsed causing much of the landscape to become buried under layers of estuary silt and mud. However, upon close inspection around Peterstone and Marshfield, distinct patterns of long, narrow fields are thought to be relics from the original Roman landscape.

Standing nearly 2.4m tall, the Centurian is constructed entirely from Corten steel. This distinct material rusts naturally to create an outer coating which protects the underlying metal from further corrosion. The figure is built by layering and welding individual metal pieces, separated by spacers — which allow light to pass through the constructed form. This unique method gives the sculpture a spectral quality.

To read more about the history of the Gwent Levels, visit: Living Levels - A Unique History.

The artist Sebastien Boyesen lives in West Wales and works throughout the UK. Many of his unique works can be found throughout South East Wales, see: The Guardian.
References:
I'll be honest, the Centurian looked rather unappreciated standing in the weeds by the car park. I had thought the sculpture might be standing proudly up on the seawall itself, so I was a little disappointed.

Still, it's a cool statue and I dig that it's by the same fella that made The Guardian up in Six Bells. I'm totally diggin' the Welsh artist theme, btw.
There are a number of picnic tables and information boards by the car park and getting up onto the seawall is pretty straight-forward effort — if you're walking!

Also, there is a bike stand where you can safely lock your bike and explore by foot, if you prefer. But if you're creative, you can snake your bike through the gate and follow a double-track just behind the seawall.
Turning right (west), the double-track slowly leads up a short rise to reach the top of the seawall and though it's rather bumpy, I made it without any problem on my road bike with 32mm tyres! (I would envision it quite differently in wet conditions.)
And once on top of the seawall, the views are spectacular. I was so very fortunate on this day; the skies were crystal clear and with the tide out — the shoreline looked weirdly like the surface of Mars.
Turning around and heading back (east), you can see how much lower the inland side of the seawall is compared to the seaward. Also, you can see the size of the seawall... it's surprisingly wide!
Additionally, there is a second level just below the seawall and between the water... almost like a low wide shelf. You can see that it floods when the tide is especially high. There are large tree trunks and various detritus scattered amoungst the gulleys and grassy knolls.
Of course too, it looks like a great place to spend an afternoon, especially if you're a cow with nothing better to do. Ya gotta love cows chillin' at the beach.
It's only a mile to the West Usk Lighthouse from the entrance by the Lighthouse Inn, but the seawall path is bumpy and slow going. I stopped quite a bit to take photos and look around... it was simply stunning. With views like this, why hurry?

The shelf to my right is a study in textures (image below).
The West Usk Lighthouse was a postcard on this day. I walked around and poked around, took some photos and just looked around.

Is that some kinda submarine that's been converted into a bulding? What is that thing parked alongside the lighthouse? (image above)
The whole place is just super-cool. There's not a soul in site either... kinda weird and surprising, but makes it easy to find a spot for my lunch.
West Usk Lighthouse
The West Usk Lighthouse was orignally built by Trinity House in 1821 on an small island just off the coastline of the Gwent Levels. Designed by the prominent Scottish civil engineer and architect; James Campbell Walker. This was one of Walker's first lighthouse commissions and only the second lighthouse to be built along the western bank of the Bristol Channel.
The West Usk Lighthouse stands south of Newport on the western bank of the Bristol Channel.
Standing almost 17 metres (55ft) tall, the West Usk Lighthouse was a vital resource for guiding vessels up the Bristol Chanel toward the River Usk and River Severn. As the second largest lighthouse along the Welsh shoreline (the largest being Nash Point Lighthouse, built in 1839), the West Usk Lighthouse served as a critical waypoint for over 100 years.

However by 1922, the West Usk Lighthouse was thought to be nolonger neccessary for nautical navigation. It was then decommissioned and abandoned. For a number of years, the lighthouse was used as a farmhouse and later, even as a look-out post during the Second World War. But soon after that, it was again abandoned and fell into disrepair.
James Campbell Walker designed over 20 lighthouses; four of which are in Wales.
During the late 1960's, the lighthouse was once more turned back into a private residence until 1982 when it was abandoned and left to decay. The historic lighthouse then sat empty for five years until 1987 when it was purchased by the present owners. A two-year restoration and reconstruction was underataken before finally opening as a historic home, wedding venue, and guesthouse.

Additionally, with help from the Wales Tourist Board and CADW, the lantern room was fully re-constructed in 1997. A private road off the B4239 (Lighthouse Road) now offers guests access to the lighthouse, whilst walkers (and cyclists!), may reach it along a 1 km (0.62 mi.) path following the sea wall from the car park at the Lighthouse Inn on Beach Road.
The West Usk Lighthouse is a grade II listed building now over 200 years old.
Better known for specialising in governmental buildings, Campbell also designed over 20 lighthouses during his career, four of which are in Wales — three of which are still in use; Skerries Lighthouse, South Bishop Lighthouse, and Smalls Lighhouse.
Note: The land between the island and shore had rasied by 1856 (reclaimed by farming) and subsequently a road to the lighthouse was then built.
References:
I sat for nearly an hour just watching the world around me. Then as a few fluffy clouds began to drift across the estuary, I packed up my bike and began thinking about heading back.
Just past the lighthouse is the mouth of the River Usk as it empties into the Severn Estuary. Far on the other side of that is the tiny little East Usk Lighthouse standing along the banks of the Newport Wetlands. If you look very closely, you can spot it amoungst the trees, to the right and below the last electrical pylon (image below).
It looked interesting, so I decided to take the inward road back to the Lighthouse Inn.
Tranquility personified.
Once back at the entrance by the Lighthouse Inn, I scrambled up on the seawall again for one last look at the estuary. Somewhere along here the Severn River becomes the Bristol Channel, which inturn becomes the Celtic Sea and eventually the Atlantic Ocean.
Was that a pier? or a boat dock perhaps? What was it and how long ago it was in use?
Heading back toward the Lighthouse Inn, I spotted a gate with a small path leading away from the seawall. It was going in the right direction and seemed worthy of exploring.
If it's a dead end, I could always turnaround.
And it certainly became narrow before opening up onto a small unpaved lane leading back to the main road. (I love finding little paths like that!)
Awww... look who was waiting for me back at Lighthouse Road.
SUMMARY
St. Brides & the West Usk Lighthouse
I made my way home slowly as it had been quite a full day. Over the course of eight hours I shot nearly 200 photographs (34 of which made it here...). I cycled just over 50 miles.

Wandering along the shoreline at St. Brides had been an amazing experience. The weather was fantastic and to walk/cycle across the the top of the seawall was both beautiful and surprising. The wide, open coastal landscape is truly a unique experience.

I set out primarily to visit the West Usk Lighthouse, but along the way, I discovered so much more. The adventure has left me wanting to return.
The Gwent Levels is a particularly unique landscape in Wales. I've often cycled through this area with admiration, but without a thorough knowledge. This report is part of a series of in-depth investigations where I seek to better-understand these places and hopefully, encourage you, dear reader, to do the same.

Seeya down the road... Cheers! - cm
I wish to thank the Living Levels Landscape Partnership for their dedication and hard work to enhance and maintain this unique coastal landscape. For more information on the Gwent Levels, please visit their highly informative website: Living Levels.
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